Before you delve into this review, know this: Hyalo Plasma is little more than an overpriced fragrance-free moisturizer with a silky gel texture. Nice, not exceptional. Its core ingredients are good, yes, but surprisingly ordinary and absolutely not worth what Perricone is charging. Even if cost isn't an obstacle for you, the brand's choice of jar packaging means several of this moisturizer's ingredients won't remain stable once opened. See More Info for details on why jar packaging + anti-aging treatments = bad idea.
So, is Hyalo Plasma a worth replacement for hyaluronic acid (dermal filler) injections a dermatologist can administer? No. In fact, the association is just silly, like thinking you can rub dinner on your abdomen and somehow have it be digested and feel full. It just doesn't work that way! You can manipulate the hyaluronic acid molecule all you want, but topical application is never going to approach or even vaguely approximate what an injection can do.
When hyaluronic acid is injected via dermal fillers, it goes past the skin's uppermost layer (known as the epidermis) where skin-care products reside, all the way to the dermis, where it can plump lines and wrinkles "from the bottom up". It can get confusing because, when applied topically, hyaluronic acid or its salt form, sodium hyaluronate, can bind moisture to skin and become part of skin's intercellular matrix, sometimes referred to as "the glue" that holds skin cells together. That's great, and these ingredients absolutely have value in skin-care products. What's not so great and incredibly misleading is to claim your product can do what dermal fillers do. Perricone isn't being quite that direct, but the implication is certainly there—and the price reinforces it.
In the end, this is a good moisturizer in subpar packaging. It's best for normal to combination skin and suitable for breakout-prone skin.
Note: This moisturizer, like most of Perricone's products, contains the ingredient dimethylaminoethanol, listed as dimethyl MEA. Research has shown there are benefits and risks to applying this topically, and it's something you should consider before buying products that contain it.
The fact that this product is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and most other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also present a hygiene issue because even if you wash your hands or use a spatula to remove the product, you're introducing bacteria, which cause further breakdown of key ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
This unique formula addresses aging skin dehydration by nourishing collagen responsible for firmness for youthful-looking muscle convexity, addressing hydration needs, and superbly preparing skin for makeup application with its oil-free hybrid cream/serum formulation. Recommended for all ages and skin types, this multitasking treatment works to re-establish the look of youthful muscle convexity, plumpness, and suppleness.
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Benzyl Alcohol, Urea, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Bisabolol, Dimethyl MEA, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Phosphatidylcholine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citric Acid, Allantoin, Hyaluronic Acid, Polysilicone-11, Triacetin, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Sodium Lactate, Lactic Acid, Serine, Sorbitol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Docosahexaenoic Acid, Copper Gluconate.
Perricone MD Cosmeceuticals At-A-Glance
Strengths: A handful of good cleansers; a couple of worthwhile moisturizers for the eye area; several fragrance-free products; a few impressive makeup products.
Weaknesses: Expensive; long on claims not supported by evidence-based science; use of controversial ingredients throughout the line; several antioxidant-rich products are packaged in jars, which renders those beneficial ingredients less effective.
This dermatologist-developed line is perhaps the best known in an increasingly crowded field. The frenzy began with Nicholas Perricone's first book, The Wrinkle Cure, and continued when he appeared on PBS to discuss his book and namesake products, all of which seemed incredibly legitimate to consumers worried about how to look younger longer. PBS reaped a financial windfall from his appearance, netting millions of dollars between 2001 and 2002 (Source: www.quackwatch.org). Originally all the fuss centered around vitamin C and alpha lipoic acid, but as his success continued, Perricone wrote half a dozen more books and expanded his product line to include other over-hyped ingredients, each with claims (and price tags) more inflated than the last round.
We sourced the Web site Quackwatch.org because they have an excellent, unbiased report on the Perricone phenomenon. This non-profit site is operated by consumer advocate Dr. Stephen Barrett, and, to quote the Quackwatch Mission Statement, their purpose is "to combat health-related frauds, myths, fads, fallacies, and misconduct." That's where Perricone comes into play. According to Quackwatch, Perricone's books "contain many claims that are questionable, controversial, fanciful, unsupported by published evidence, or just plain wrong. Although he mentions standard skin-care treatments, sometimes favorably, his books provide little guidance about when they might be appropriate or sufficient. Although he provides long lists of references, practically none of them directly support what he promises." Those sentiments are exactly what we felt and wrote after reading The Wrinkle Cure.
The site goes on to state: "Perricone's books are sprinkled with statements that his ideas are based on his own research. However, the extent and quality of this research is unclear. A PubMed search for his name brought up only six citations, of which only two appear to be original research, both on topical glycolic acid. His books describe situations in which he tested various ideas in a few patients, usually over a short period of time, but he provides few details and apparently published none of those findings in medical journals." Does that sound like the kind of products you'd like to spend (a lot of) your money on?
They go on to conclude (and we agree completely with the following text): "Dr. Perricone has mixed a pinch of science with a gallon of imagination to create an elaborate, time-consuming, expensive, prescription for a healthy life and younger skin. There is no reason to think his program is more effective than standard measures. Although some of his advice is standard, most of his recommendations are based on speculation and fanciful interpretation of selected medical literature. He makes lots of money by convincing patients and consumers, but he hasn't succeeded in convincing critical thinkers, doctors, scientists, or anyone who wants to see hard evidence. Perricone's prescription isn't science; it's creative salesmanship." And which ingredient is the answer for healthy skin? Perricone can't seem to make up his mind, because one group of products contains alpha lipoic acid, another group olive oil, another vitamin C, and still another neuropeptides. Come on, doctor, which is it?
One ingredient Perricone uses deserves some discussion because it is present in all of his products, and that's dimethyl MEA, also known as DMAE (chemically 2-dimethyl-aminoethanol). DMAE has been around for years as an oral supplement that's popularly believed to improve mental alertness, much like Ginkgo biloba and coenzyme Q10. However, the research about DMAE does not show the same positive results as the other two supplements. Because DMAE is chemically similar to choline, DMAE is thought to stimulate production of acetylcholine. And because acetylcholine is a brain neurotransmitter, it's easy to see how it could be associated with brain function. However, only a handful of studies have looked at DMAE for that purpose and they have not been conclusive in the least, while some have shown that DMAE may be problematic or not very effective (Sources: Mechanisms of Aging and Development, February 1988, pages 129–138; Neuropharmacology, June 1989, pages, 557–561; European Neurology, 1991, pages 423–425; and European Journal of Medical Research, May 2003, pages 183–191).
How does any of this translate into skin care, or, more to the point, suppressing the signs of aging? Perricone claims DMAE restores muscle tone to skin that has lost firmness and has begun to slacken, as well as conveying an antioxidant benefit. Johnson & Johnson uses DMAE in a few of their Neutrogena products, and a study they paid for appeared in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (June 2005, pages 39–47). The conclusion was as follows: "the benefits of DMAE in dermatology include a potential anti-inflammatory effect and a documented increase in skin firmness with possible improvement in underlying facial muscle tone." The study examined topical application of 3% DMAE over a period of 16 weeks, but it was not done double-blind and was not placebo-controlled, which makes the results, at best, questionable. Moreover, the study didn't examine whether a 3% or lower concentration of other ingredients, such as green tea, glycolic acid, vitamin C, or myriad others (many of which Perricone has extolled in his other products, and the amount of DMAE he used varies widely from product to product), might have had the same or better results.
Is there any reason to get excited (and drain your pocketbook) for products with DMAE? Apparently not; a study published in The British Journal of Dermatology (May 2007) has shown contrary evidence that it may actually pose risks for the skin. In vitro tests of the pure substance, as well as creams that contained DMAE, demonstrated a fairly fast and significant increase in protective elements around the skin cell. However, a short time later the researchers observed an important reduction in cell growth and in some cases they found that it halted cell growth altogether. So, while you may initially experience a kind of swelling of the skin because of the expanding effect caused by topical application of DMAE, the long-term results appear to be far from desirable.
Interestingly, even though this ingredient is present throughout Perricone's line, he has yet to publish his own research discussing the claims and explaining how topical DMAE works. The bottom line is that as more research comes to light, DMAE may prove more problematic than helpful for aging skin. But in the meantime, Perricone is raking in lots of money by convincing consumers otherwise.
For more information about Perricone MD Cosmeceuticals call (888) 823-7837 or visit www.perriconemd.com.
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