Fragrance plays a greater role in this eye cream than the many state-of-the-art ingredients Nia24 includes, and that’s never a good sign. Another bad omen is the jar packaging because that means the many antioxidants in this product won’t remain stable, particularly not the showcased form of nicotinic acid it contains. That leaves you with a typical emollient moisturizer for dry skin anywhere on the face.
The form of nicotinic acid this company uses is technically known as myristyl nicotinate, a component of vitamin B3 (niacin). This isn’t the same ingredient as niacinamide, but it functions in nearly the same manner (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com).
There is research on myristyl nicotinate’s ability to improve skin barrier function, mitigate signs of sun damage, and reduce the incidence of atopic dermatitis (severely dry skin). What’s more, it is compatible with several prescription drugs used to treat various skin conditions and it is believed to enhance their efficacy and/or minimize side effects. Myristyl nicotinate is stabilized to prevent the release of, or quick conversion to, nicotinic acid, which can cause facial flushing, particularly in those dealing with rosacea (Sources: Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, February 2007, pages 893–899; Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, November 2007, pages 1176–1182; Experimental Dermatology, November 2007, pages 927–935, and June 2007, pages 490–499).
Of course, like many companies do for cosmetic ingredients that have exciting benefits for skin (and remember, niacinamide has the same benefits as myristyl nicotinate), Nia24 makes claims that are way beyond what has been proven. That’s the case with this eye cream and its claims of reducing puffiness and dark circles. Niacinamide and its derivatives are believed to have an effect on pigmentation, but not the kind of discoloration that results in dark circles (which are a combination of excess melanin and of blood flow very close to the surface of the thin undereye skin). If you’re interested in seeing what niacinamide can do for eye-area skin, consider the less expensive options from Olay before this (and save yourself the potential irritation from the amount of fragrance this product contains).
An ultra-rich clinical strength Pro-Niacin eye cream that quickly penetrates to firm and brighten while minimizing dark circles, lines and puffiness. Firms, brightens and soothes the eye area.
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Oil, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isopropyl Palmitate, Myristyl Nicotinate (Pro-Niacin), Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Paraffin, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylamide, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Betula Alba Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Fragrance, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Panthenol, Caffeine, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium PCA, Urea, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Hyaluronate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Steareth-20, Chrysin, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Dextrane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetyl Phosphate, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Castor Oil, Polysilicone-11, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Propylene Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, BHT, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol
Strengths: Good cleanser and scrub; some very well-formulated moisturizers for use on face or body; company provides complete product ingredient lists on their Web site; there is legitimacy behind most of their claims for nicotinic acid (a derivative of niacinamide).
Weaknesses: Expensive; very small line of products, which limits its appeal; no AHA or BHA exfoliants; no anti-acne products; sole sunscreen contains irritating fragrance chemicals; some jar packaging.
As you may have guessed from this line's name, Nia24 is all about the B vitamin niacinamide. We have written about niacinamide extensively in the past, and without question it is one of many valuable ingredients for skin. Topical application of niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis (Sources: British Journal of Dermatology, September 2000, pages 524–531; and Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, April 2004, page 88).
Niacinamide also has been shown, in studies from Procter & Gamble (whose Olay brand sells several niacinamide-rich products), to be an effective option for lightening sun-induced skin discolorations, both on its own and when combined with acetyl glucosamine (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2007, pages 20–26; and British Journal of Dermatology, July 2002, pages 20–31).
Nia24 is working hard to position itself as the superior, doctor-designed choice for those seeking niacinamide. To that end, the two physicians behind this brand (Dr. Myron Jacobson and Dr. Elaine Jacobson) tout their years of research on niacinamide and how this led to their development of a patented niacin molecule, which they have termed Pro-Niacin. Both of the Jacobsons have published some of their research on the Pro-Niacin ingredient, which is listed as myristyl nicotinate, but as it turns out, how it performs on skin isn't fundamentally different from how "regular" niacinamide functions.
Myristyl nicotinate is a derivative of nicotinic acid, a component of vitamin B3 (niacin). It isn't the same ingredient as niacinamide, but functions in nearly the same manner (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). Just like niacinamide, there is research on myristyl nicotinate's ability to improve skin barrier function, mitigate signs of sun damage, and reduce the incidence of atopic dermatitis, commonly known as dry skin. Niacinamide and myristyl nicotinate are both compatible with several prescription drugs used to treat various skin conditions and are believed to enhance their efficacy and/or minimize the negative side effects. Myristyl nicotinate is stabilized to prevent the release of, or quick conversion to, nicotinic acid, which can cause facial flushing, particularly in those dealing with rosacea (Sources: Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, February 2007, pages 893–899; Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, November 2007, pages 1176–1182; and Experimental Dermatology, November 2007, pages 927–935, and June 2007, pages 490–499).
So why should consumers choose Nia24's patented version of niacinamide over other products (particularly those from Olay)? Well, according to the company, their version of niacinamide penetrates skin better than other forms. It stands to reason that getting niacinamide further into the skin means the benefits it provides will be that much greater. Of course, these allegedly enhanced benefits come with enhanced price tags. This isn't an affordable line by any stretch of the imagination, though at least most of the formulas are good.
We would love to see published, peer-reviewed research that compares the Pro-Niacin molecule with other forms of niacinamide, such as what Olay or the Estee Lauder companies use. Because such comparative research doesn't exist, you're left to take Nia24's word that their form of this B vitamin is the one to beat. We wouldn't bank on that, but on the other hand, the research on niacinamide in general is strong enough to support its use for a variety of skin concerns and conditions. Bottom line: Nia24 isn't the only game in town when it comes to niacinamide and its derivatives, and their claims of superiority aren't supported in peer-reviewed, published studies. You'll very likely see your skin improve from using Nia24 products, especially if you're dealing with an impaired skin barrier, dryness, and discolorations. However, you're just as likely to see the same benefits from using less expensive products that contain efficacious amounts of niacinamide. Although Nia24 deserves credit for not resting solely on niacinamide, the Nia24 products are also further proof that expensive products don't necessarily mean better or more effective products.
For more information about Nia24, call (866) 642-3963 or visit www.nia24.com.
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