This is a good AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) moisturizer that contains 6% glycolic acid formulated at a pH that ensures exfoliation. The formula is best for normal to dry skin.
Although this does exfoliate your skin, the fact that it’s packaged in a jar is a problem because jar packaging renders the small amount of antioxidants ineffective shortly after opening. If it had been packaged properly, this would be a top-notch exfoliant.
All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (although, again, there’s not much of them in this product).
As for the Magnalys referred to in this product’s claims, it’s a trade name for a mixture of the following three ingredients: water, propylene glycol, and silk worm extract. The water and propylene glycol are common ingredients, but the silk worm extract deserves discussion.
Silk worm extract contains an enzyme known as serrapeptase. According to what’s known (or suspected to be true) about this enzyme, it has anti-inflammatory activity when ingested. There is no reliable information pertaining to its effect if applied topically (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). However, even if this enzyme from silk worm were brilliant for your skin, its stability and efficacy will be compromised due to the jar packaging. In reality, there are dozens and dozens of great ingredients in the world of cosmetics that work as anti-inflammatory agents; silk worm might sound interesting, but it is not worth your attention.
The synergistic duo, glycolic acid and Magnalys, revitalizes the skin’s complexion leaving it moisturized and radiant looking.
Water, Glycolic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclomethicone, Water, Propylene Glycol, Silkworm Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Steareth-21, Trimethypentanediol/Adipic Acid Copolymer, Myristyl Myristate, Glyceryl Dilaurate, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Steareth-2, Ammonium Hydroxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Titanium Dioxide, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Cetyl Palmitate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Fragrance, Gluconolactone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triundecanoin, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxycellulose, Tetrasodium Edta, Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate, BHT, Sodium Metabisulfite
NeoStrata Canada At-a-Glance
Strengths: Effective AHA products with glycolic acid and, in some instances, the polyhydroxy acid gluconolactone; good, but pricey self-tanner; some well-formulated moisturizers and vitamin C serums.
Weaknesses: Irritating anti-acne products; the AHA with sunscreen products do not provide sufficient UVA protection, leaving your skin vulnerable to the sun's aging rays; most of the skin-lightening products contain an irritating amount of alcohol; jar packaging; some of the products contain such large amounts of anti-aging ingredients that they tip the scales toward irritation rather than toward youthful benefits.
NeoStrata Canada is not associated in any way with the NeoStrata brand sold in the United States, and the product selections are completely different. We asked NeoStrata Canada's owner, Canderma Pharma, Inc., why many of the products are completely different, but no one would tell us, so it remains a mystery.
What NeoStrata Canada and the U.S.-sold NeoStrata products do have in common is an abundance of well-formulated AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) exfoliants at effective concentrations and at the correct pH levels. The prices are all over the place, but for the most part you can be assured that any AHA product you purchase from NeoStrata Canada will exfoliate your skin and provide additional benefits such as improved skin texture and tone.
Exfoliants are both lines' key selling point, but they're not perfect. For example, the AHA products with sunscreen do not provide enough critical UVA protection (meaning they lack the UVA-protecting active ingredients of avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Tinsorb, ecamsule, or Mexoryl SX). That lack is a disappointment for those who were hoping that an AHA plus sunscreen would be a convenience.
NeoStrata Canada has several other intriguing products that include impressive ingredients such as peptides, retinol, vitamin C, and the company's patented AHA alternative, the polyhydroxy acid known as gluconolactone. Despite including some great ingredients, the formulas suffer from the inclusion of irritants (alcohol is a big one) and/or packaging that won't keep the beneficial ingredients stable during use.
The serums with vitamin C are worth a look, if you're curious about vitamin C. However, you'd do better looking for vitamin C in a product that also treats your skin to a variety of beneficial ingredients because one antioxidant is never enough; your skin requires much more (just like your diet) to be healthy so it can look and act younger.
Because NeoStrata Canada's products are not associated with the NeoStrata brand sold in the United States, our team called NeoStrata Canada's customer service to get additional consumer information about their products. Unfortunately, NeoStrata Canada's customer service phone number was perpetually set to voicemail, and our numerous messages (all left as regular customers, not as investigators) were never returned. After two weeks, the one email reply we did get in response to a question concerning active ingredients said simply that they couldn't give us any information. Their solution was to tell us that we would have to locate the product on store shelves to answer our own question. Either our question was too probing or NeoStrata Canada's strength is not customer service.
For more information about NeoStrata Canada, call (800) 636-3664 or visit www.neostrata.ca.
Note: All prices are in Canadian currency.
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