ReACTIVE Anti-Oxidant Serum is an excellent product from Neocutis—if not their absolute best! Though pricey, it is nonetheless a well-formulated serum to treat signs of aging—you can expect this mix of potent antioxidants to help ward off free-radical damage, fade discolorations, and improve multiple signs of aging over time.
Housed in a pump-style container to protect its delicate ingredients from degrading air or light exposure, this fragrance-free and silicone-based cream is suitable for any skin type, although if you have oily to combination skin you may prefer a lighter texture.
Neocutis included a seemingly high dose of ascorbic acid (vitamin C), along with the green tea–derived antioxidant epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), vitamin E, and creatine. The latter is a novel inclusion, although it does have research demonstrating an ability to improve signs of aging by helping to impede collagen breakdown in topical treatments (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2011), so that’s one more helpful addition.
If you’re shopping Neocutis and are in the mood to splurge (and your budget allows), ReACTIVE Anti-Oxidant Serum is arguably the best possible choice based on its ingredients, which can provide numerous benefits to improve skin tone and texture, and to fight signs of aging.
VITAPLEX C™ offers one of the most complete anti-oxidant defense systems available to help neutralize free radicals and promote anti-oxidant regeneration.
Cyclopentasiloxane, Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Propanediol, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Creatine, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Propylene Carbonate, Disteardimonium Hectorite.
Strengths: Fragrance-free products; use of pump or tube packaging protects the light- and air-sensitive ingredients; excellent vitamin C serum and retinol product.
Weaknesses: Many of the anti-aging moisturizers and treatments are disappointingly simple formulas; expensive; some products rely on unproven ingredients.
If you’ve heard of the Neocutis brand, it’s likely because a dermatologist or aesthetician recommended one of their moisturizers or treatments. Like many skincare brands catering to patients of dermatologists and so-called “medi spas,” the claims associated with their products play off the perception of “prescription results” via ingredients that have medicinal-sounding names such as “Processed Skin Proteins” and “Melaplex.” It’s all designed to make you think you’re getting something special along with the pedigree of the doctor or spa retailing this line. As you’ll see from the reviews, that’s not true, although there are some good products to be found here.
Now headquartered in San Francisco, California, Neocutis was founded in Switzerland in 2003 by a group of physicians and biologists who realized the [marketing] potential of human cells in skincare products—specifically, amino acids and proteins (which is where their trademarked ingredients with exotic-sounding names come into play).
Despite their beginnings and their initial exclusivity to dermatologists’ offices, today you can order Neocutis products from beauty sites and other online retailers. Their line includes a range of products that caters to those whose foremost concerns are treating and preventing signs of aging. As a result, you’ll find Neocutis offers moisturizers, eye creams, and targeted treatments, many of which are themed around their trademarked “PSP,” or “Processed Skin Proteins.” Note: They claim this blend of peptides, proteins, and other substances “harnesses the power of human-cell derived growth factors and cytokines.”
What Neocutis isn’t telling you is that this blend of cytokines and human-cell derived growth factors has little research demonstrating any benefit for skin, and certainly not in comparison to the numerous well-researched antioxidants and cell-communicating agents used in so many of today’s best anti-aging products (see the More Info section of the products reviewed here for more details on PSP).
We should also note that, at the time of this review, Neocutis does not universally adhere to cosmetics ingredient labeling regulations on some of their products. In some cases, they do not list individually the proteins and amino acids that make up their PSP blend, which violates International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) and
Unfortunately, despite the pomp and circumstance surrounding these products, most are extraordinarily overpriced and contain a surprisingly bland mix of basic moisturizing ingredients with a dusting of antioxidants. When we say “dusting” of beneficial ingredients, we really mean just that; in fact, one of their “remarkable” moisturizers is little more than a mix of glycerin, glycol, and thickeners, with a price tag topping $160!
On a positive note, Neocutis does have two outstanding products—one vitamin C serum and a retinol product—that are (like all of their formulas) fragrance-free and packaged to protect their light- and air-sensitive ingredients. What’s certain is that Neocutis doesn’t have enough going for it to make putting together an entire anti-aging skincare routine from their products a good idea, for your skin or for your budget!
For more information on Neocutis, call 1-866-636-2884 or visit http://www.neocutis.com/.
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