Although pricey, Nouvelle + Retinol Correction Cream contains a very good mix of antioxidants along with a mid-strength dose of retinol. Its cream texture is a bit deceiving, as there isn’t much moisture to be found here, which is good news because it means this formula is suitable for nearly any skin type. (Those with extra-sensitive skin, though, should proceed with caution due to the potency of this formula.) The pump-container will keep the air- and light-sensitive ingredients safe, and it’s fragrance-free, too.
Containing 0.6% retinol, Nouvelle + Retinol Correction Cream has research-supported potential to improve signs of sun damage in skin (Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2009). This strength may make it a bit iffy for use on sensitive skin, such as those battling rosacea, but the added anti-irritants and purported time-release encapsulation will potentially minimize that risk, so we’re not going so far as to advise someone with sensitive or rosacea-affected skin not to use this.
Neocutis also included vitamins C and E, which research has shown work together synergistically with retinol to enhance their respective individual benefits (Molecules, 2012). You will also find the theoretical skin-lightening ingredients undecylenoyl phenylalanine and phenylethyl resorcinol; “theoretical” because undecylenoyl phenylalanine has only in vitro (petri dish) research, and because the only studies on phenylethyl resorcinol seem to have been conducted by Neocutis (Peptides, 2003; and Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2011). That’s not bad, but we prefer that such research be substantiated, meaning that another group of researchers duplicate and/or expand on the results from the Neocutis studies.
Fortunately, Nouvelle + Retinol Correction Cream has enough going for it otherwise to earn a BEST rating. A potent level of retinol, combined with other beneficial antioxidants and anti-irritants, makes for a well-rounded anti-aging product. Though this is certainly an expensive option for a retinol treatment, it is a standout product from Neocutis.
Retinol 0.6% delivered through unique µ-Bead technology helps provide a sustained dose of Retinol for optimal efficacy with low to tolerable irritation.
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Glycerophosphate, Glycerin, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Ester, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Methicone, Ceteth-20 Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Leucine, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Retinol, Ascorbic Acid, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dicetyl Phosphate, Stearic Acid, PEG-10 Soy Sterol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, BHT, Propyl Gallate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.
Strengths: Fragrance-free products; use of pump or tube packaging protects the light- and air-sensitive ingredients; excellent vitamin C serum and retinol product.
Weaknesses: Many of the anti-aging moisturizers and treatments are disappointingly simple formulas; expensive; some products rely on unproven ingredients.
If you’ve heard of the Neocutis brand, it’s likely because a dermatologist or aesthetician recommended one of their moisturizers or treatments. Like many skincare brands catering to patients of dermatologists and so-called “medi spas,” the claims associated with their products play off the perception of “prescription results” via ingredients that have medicinal-sounding names such as “Processed Skin Proteins” and “Melaplex.” It’s all designed to make you think you’re getting something special along with the pedigree of the doctor or spa retailing this line. As you’ll see from the reviews, that’s not true, although there are some good products to be found here.
Now headquartered in San Francisco, California, Neocutis was founded in Switzerland in 2003 by a group of physicians and biologists who realized the [marketing] potential of human cells in skincare products—specifically, amino acids and proteins (which is where their trademarked ingredients with exotic-sounding names come into play).
Despite their beginnings and their initial exclusivity to dermatologists’ offices, today you can order Neocutis products from beauty sites and other online retailers. Their line includes a range of products that caters to those whose foremost concerns are treating and preventing signs of aging. As a result, you’ll find Neocutis offers moisturizers, eye creams, and targeted treatments, many of which are themed around their trademarked “PSP,” or “Processed Skin Proteins.” Note: They claim this blend of peptides, proteins, and other substances “harnesses the power of human-cell derived growth factors and cytokines.”
What Neocutis isn’t telling you is that this blend of cytokines and human-cell derived growth factors has little research demonstrating any benefit for skin, and certainly not in comparison to the numerous well-researched antioxidants and cell-communicating agents used in so many of today’s best anti-aging products (see the More Info section of the products reviewed here for more details on PSP).
We should also note that, at the time of this review, Neocutis does not universally adhere to cosmetics ingredient labeling regulations on some of their products. In some cases, they do not list individually the proteins and amino acids that make up their PSP blend, which violates International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) and
Unfortunately, despite the pomp and circumstance surrounding these products, most are extraordinarily overpriced and contain a surprisingly bland mix of basic moisturizing ingredients with a dusting of antioxidants. When we say “dusting” of beneficial ingredients, we really mean just that; in fact, one of their “remarkable” moisturizers is little more than a mix of glycerin, glycol, and thickeners, with a price tag topping $160!
On a positive note, Neocutis does have two outstanding products—one vitamin C serum and a retinol product—that are (like all of their formulas) fragrance-free and packaged to protect their light- and air-sensitive ingredients. What’s certain is that Neocutis doesn’t have enough going for it to make putting together an entire anti-aging skincare routine from their products a good idea, for your skin or for your budget!
For more information on Neocutis, call 1-866-636-2884 or visit http://www.neocutis.com/.
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