Changing Skin Night Creme has a silkier, lighter texture than Merle Norman’s Changing Skin Eye Complex. Otherwise, the two products are quite similar, so the same basic comments apply: Soy, clover, and wild yam are not the antidotes to the changes menopause has on a woman’s skin. In fact, there is no research showing that wild yam has any noticeable effect when applied topically on skin. If anything, the studies that do exist demonstrate that topical application of wild yam has little to no effect on menopausal symptoms (Source: Climacteric, June 2001, pages 144–150). More recent studies are scarce because the conclusions reached in earlier research were solid. The research concerning soy’s potential benefit pre- and post-menopause examined oral consumption, not topical application (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). Even if these plants or any of the other ingredients in this moisturizer were effective at treating skin changes resulting from menopause, their effectiveness would begin diminishing as soon as you opened this jar packaging; the air-sensitive ingredients would begin breaking down and wouldn’t remain effective for anything. In better packaging, this would be a very good moisturizer for dry skin anywhere on the face. This contains fragrance in the form of ethylene brassylate, so it is not safe for sensitive skin, despite the company’s claims.
Weightless nighttime moisturizer works while the body is at rest. Formulated with an encapsulated delivery system that provides time-released moisturization. Safe for sensitive skin.
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Stearic Acid, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Cetyl Phosphate, PEG-8 Beeswax, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Germ Extract, Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Calluna Vulgaris Flower Extract, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide 3, Ceramide6 II, Ceramide 1, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Serine, PCA, Glucose, Lactic Acid, Glycine, Proline, Ornithine, Alanine, Citrulline, Glutamic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Bisabolol, Lecithin, Adenosine Triphosphate, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Phospholipids, Propylene Glycol, PEG-8, Isocetyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cyclodextrin, Ethoxydiglycol, Xanthan Gym, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Trisodium EDTA, Diazolidinyl Urea, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylene Brassylate
Merle Norman At-A-Glance
Strengths: Most Merle Norman boutiques willingly provide free samples so you can try before you buy; excellent cleansing lotion for dry, sensitive skin; effective, pH-correct AHA and BHA products; surprisingly good toners; excellent lip balm/lipline filler; good sunscreen and self-tanner.
Weaknesses: Jar packaging is prevalent; the Luxiva Changing Skin products do not effectively address skin changes resulting from menopause; most of the Luxiva Clear Complexion products cause more skin problems than they solve; a few very good products are impossible to recommend because they also include irritants; the Miracol and classic Merle Norman products are severely dated formulas that harken back to the days before computers replaced typewriters.
Merle Norman opened her first cosmetics studio in Santa Monica, California, in 1931. She believed strongly that women would love her products, if only she could "get them on their faces," and the company's now-famous try-before-you-buy program was launched. To this day, women who visit any of Merle Norman's 2,000 boutiques spread across the United States, Canada, and Mexico can take advantage of the company's product samples before making a purchase.
The free samples are great, but the question is why anyone would be inclined to try Merle Norman skin-care products. Although there have been some improvements since the Cosmetics Cop Team last reviewed this brand, much of what was problematic back then is still around today, and still problematic - and that's not good news for your skin.
Across the board, the biggest issue is jar packaging. Several of the moisturizers didn't receive better than a neutral face rating because they are poorly packaged. For a company claiming to be cutting edge, they somehow missed, or chose to ignore, the research showing how state-of-the-art ingredients deteriorate when exposed to light and air. In addition, repeatedly sticking your fingers into a product isn't sanitary, and further degrades the ingredients. What good is adding a lot of antioxidants and other plant extracts or vitamins to a product if their efficacy is all but gone within a week or two of opening?
There are other weak spots to watch out for, too, especially in the Luxiva Changing Skin and Luxiva Clear Complexion lines. Merle Norman also sells a group of antiquated products that are little more than cold cream and super-greasy moisturizers. These are as far removed as you can get from what we know about what skin needs to look younger and function in a healthy manner. Using many of Merle Norman's products is like using a typewriter instead of a computer.
As far as what's to like, you'll find several well-formulated cleansers and toners, some reliable AHA and BHA products, and an impressive lip balm, and most of the SPF-rated products provide broad-spectrum protection. Ultimately, it wouldn't be wise to try to assemble a comprehensive skin-care routine from Merle Norman, but if you focus on their better products you'll do okay.
For the record, it is perfectly fine to mix Merle Norman products with those from other brands. We doubt you'll get this advice if you visit any of the Merle Norman Studios, but it's true. In fact, this applies to any skin-care brand—what counts is the individual product and how well it's formulated, not the company's predetermined ideas that their products work best if and only if they're used together.
For more information about Merle Norman, call (310) 641-3000 or visit www.merlenorman.com.
Note: We know that we've stated for quite some time that the team wouldn't be revisiting this line because of Merle Norman's complete disinterest in helping us get the information we need to review their products accurately. Over the years, my staff has been kicked out of several Merle Norman boutiques, both here in the Seattle area and in other states. As soon as we began taking notes or if we asked too many questions, we were eyed with suspicion and then asked to leave. There are two reasons we changed our mind: (1) our Beautypedia subscribers kept asking us to re-review this brand, and (2) a Merle Norman employee agreed to help us obtain the information we need, as long as she remained anonymous. We wish to extend a sincere thanks to the woman who sent us dozens upon dozens of samples and helped us compile all of the accurate information that made these reviews possible.
Please note: These product prices are in U.S. dollars, and for reasons unknown Merle Norman products are substantially more expensive in Canadian boutiques. Please be aware when shopping that these ratings are a reflection of U.S. prices only.
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