The Method: Nourish Blemish Control comes close to being a good moisturizer for oily to combination skin. Unfortunately, a few roadblocks make this a product we wouldn't recommend over the numerous better alternatives available (including those at a fraction of the cost).
With promising beginnings, this lightweight lotion has a nice blend of sheer emollients, skin-repairing ingredients and antioxidants. The exfoliating ingredient salicylic acid present in a smaller amount, but the pH is too high for it to function as an exfoliant.
The downside, and the reason for the POOR rating, is twofold. The first is the significant amount of peppermint oil. Peppermint provides a cooling sensation to skin, but the irritation it causes can increase oiliness and delay healing of breakouts because it stimulates more oil production at the base of pores. That's not the ideal outcome for a product marketed towards those prone to breakouts! See More Info for additional details on irritation and skin.
The second issue we had with Nourish: Blemish Control is the use of jar packaging, though its somewhat a moot point given the use of peppermint oil. Nevertheless, water-based moisturizers in jars are best avoided due to the fact it repeatedly exposes the product to air (compromising the ingredients) plus there's the hygiene issue of dipping fingers or objects into the product. We discuss further details on jar packaging in the More Info section.
For equal (or better) moisturizers packaged to keep their ingredients protected from light and air, as well as include skin-friendly ingredients, check out our Best Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) section.
Irritation and Skin: Irritation, whether you see it on the surface of your skin or not, causes inflammation and as a result impairs healing, damages collagen, and depletes the vital substances your skin needs to stay young. For these reasons, it is best to eliminate, or minimize as much as possible, your exposure to known skin irritants, especially when there are brilliant formulas available that do not include these types of problematic ingredients (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).
Jar Packaging: The fact that this cream is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818-829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271-288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197-203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1-32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
This ultra-light moisturizer delivers essential hydration day or night to blemish-prone or oily skin without clogging pores or causing breakouts. Oil-controlling ingredients help regulate sebum and keep pores clear of blemish-causing impurities while delivering potent anti-aging benefits.
Water (Aqua), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice Extract, Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Melaeuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Sodium Isostearate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Maltodextrin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol, Ethylhexyglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Fragrance (Parfum), Limonene.
Strengths: Has a good option for 10% vitamin C treatment; Their 10% AHA moisturizer is a worth considering for those who have dry skin.
Weaknesses: Expensive; some products with light- and air-sensitive ingredients are packaged in jars; overly abrasive scrub.
Dr. Harold Lancer is a Beverly Hills dermatologist with celebrity clientele, two credentials that pique the interest of many women interested in skin care. His specialty is cosmetic rejuvenation and, like many dermatologists before him, Lancer has his own line of products: Lancer Dermatology Skincare.
Lancer's skin-care line is built around four steps: polish, cleanse, nourish, and protect. According to Lancer, these steps work for every skin type or aging concern. The polish (i.e. scrub) step involves applying a fairly abrasive, alkaline scrub before cleansing. Lancer's idea is that the polish loosens soil and cellular debris, which the cleanser you apply next will easily wash away.
After you cleanse, you're supposed to nourish skin with an anti-aging moisturizer. During the day, you're advised to protect your skin with sunscreen and, occasionally, if needed, you can apply a treatment product (such as a vitamin C cream).
Although Lancer's method is being hailed as unique or somehow different, it's ultimately nothing new to the skin-care industry: Exfoliation is necessary for younger-looking skin (but scrubs aren’t the best way to get this benefit), sun protection is vital, and a moisturizer loaded with skin-repairing ingredients helps replace what young skin produces naturally before it becomes damaged.
The polish (scrub) before the cleansing step is a new twist, but it's actually a problem if you're wearing makeup. Scrubbing skin before you remove your makeup will grind the makeup deeper into your pores, making it harder for the cleanser to remove. If anything, you should cleanse first, polish second.
Although Lancer's method is being hailed as unique or somehow different, it's about as interesting as white bread. If anything, it's a mix of dated and modern concepts built on information that researchers have known about for years: Exfoliation is necessary for younger-looking skin (but scrubbing isn't the best way to get this benefit), sun protection is vital, and a moisturizer loaded with skin-repairing ingredients helps replace what young skin produces naturally before it becomes damaged.
Unfortunately, Lancer’s scrubs are all alkaline (high pH) and contain overly abrasive scrub ingredients and fragrance extracts that skin doesn’t need. The nighttime moisturizers are all packaged in jars (exposing their beneficial ingredients to air), and the one sunscreen in the line is alcohol based (which isn’t a good thing for skin, as we’ll discuss in the product review).
There are some highlights in the line, such as good options for a 10% vitamin C treatment and AHA exfoliant, but ultimately you don’t need to spend this much to have healthy, younger-looking skin. In fact, because many of Lancer's products contain one or more problematic ingredients, you may end up thinking, “why bother?”
For more information about Lancer Dermatology Skincare, call (310) 278-8444 or visit http://www.lancerskincare.com/.
The Beautypedia and Paula’s Choice Research teams have one mission: To help you find the best products for your skin, whether they’re from Paula’s Choice or another brand. By combining efforts, we’re able to share scientific research and remain committed to the highest standards based on our decades of experience objectively reviewing thousands upon thousands of skincare and makeup formularies in all price ranges.
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