La Mer is asking you to believe (recall that La Mer is all about believing in miracles) that the company’s many ferments and its proprietary silver-tipped applicator tool are supposed to work wonders on puffy eyes, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone (think dark circles). All of these claims are made for dozens of eye creams, including almost all of those sold by the Estee Lauder Companies, of which La Mer is one. Regrettably, the only thing intense about this eye cream is its price. Because it’s packaged in a jar, all of the various “ferments,” plant extracts, and the like will begin to break down the moment you open it. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients.
If those facts and the price aren’t enough to dissuade you, consider that this eye cream also contains eucalyptus oil, which is one of the most irritating fragrant oils (Sources: Basic and Clinical Pharmacology and Toxicology; and www.naturaldatabase.com). What any potent irritant does to skin is create potential problems, especially in a product meant for use in the eye area. Irritation can result in collagen breakdown that will make other signs of aging more apparent anywhere on the face. The best ingredients in The Eye Balm Intense are found in lots of other moisturizers that not only cost less, but also don’t expose your skin to aging irritation. Please see our Best Moisturizers lists for prime examples.
The new Marine De-Puff Ferment, The Lifting Ferment, and a potent concentration of The Miracle Broth—the seaborne elixir known for its healing energies—penetrate deep within the skin’s surface for a remarkable change, while the unique balm texture offers the utmost in comfort. In a short while, the look of puffiness, lines, and wrinkles is diminished as clarity is revealed. La Mer’s proprietary silver-tipped applicator cools skin on contact to help stimulate microcirculation.
Water, Seaweed (Algae) Extract, Shea Butter, Butylene Glycol, Polyethylene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Cetyl Esters, Cetearyl Alcohol, Malachite, Polybutene, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Silica, Trisiloxane, Yeast Extract, Caffeine, Cholesterol, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Sesame Seed Oil, Eucalyptus Leaf Oil, Sesame Seed, Alfalfa Seed Powder, Sunflower Seedcake, Sweet Almond Seed Meal, Sodium Gluconate, Potassium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, St. Paul’s Wort Extract, Whey Protein, Sucrose, Palm Oil, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glyceryl Distearate, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Linoleic Acid, Sorbitol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Steareth-10, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocotrienols, Hexylene Glycol, Phytosphingosine, Isododecane, Tocopherol, Squalane, Propylene Glycol Dioctanoate, Phytosterols, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Carbomer, Fragrance, Tourmaline, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Linalool, Limonene, Benzyl Salicylate, Blue 1, Yellow 5, Titanium Dioxide, Green 5
La Mer At-A-Glance
Strengths: Effective cleansers; a supremely good powder; the makeup brushes.
Weaknesses: Outlandish claims; ultra-pricey; several products contain irritants, including eucalyptus oil and lime; no AHA or BHA products; jar packaging weakens some of the anti-aging ingredients; the skincare tends to do more harm than good.
The original Creme De La Mer was launched by Estee Lauder as a miracle product for wrinkles based on research from Max Huber, an aerospace physicist. How does space technology relate to wrinkles? Well, it doesn't, although it may lend an air of expertise (if you can do rocket science, the assumption is you can do anything). Huber at one time suffered severe chemical burns in an accident. Then, according to the Max Huber Laboratories, after 12 years and 6,000 experiments, he came up with a special cream. The company refers to its key element as "miracle broth," and it's said to take months to concoct and ferment. In this case, the process that goes into making La Mer products gets as much talk as the product itself. So be prepared for formulary information that sounds a lot like alchemy.
Huber's experiments took place over 30 years ago. Given that none of his self-experimentation was ever documented or published, there is no way to know what Huber was using before, what was unique about this formula, or what went wrong with the 5,999 or so other experiments that preceded the final discovery. It turns out that the original Creme De La Mer was, and still is, almost exclusively algae, mineral oil, Vaseline, thickening agents, and lime extract. Not very exciting stuff, but most of it will make dry skin look and feel better, although the jar packaging doesn't provide much hope for the algae. The notion that anything in this product can be a miracle for burns—or any aspect of skin care—is strictly folklore and has nothing to do with rocket science or even cosmetic chemistry for that matter.
Given the cult status the original Creme De La Mer enjoys, it's hardly surprising that Lauder has spun an entire skin-care line out of a product that was initially sold as the be-all and end-all antiwrinkle solution (in jar packaging, no less, which would have the effect of rendering the algae—the cornerstone of the product—unstable). In the world of skin care, if one product sells well, then other related products that carry the same name will experience increased sales, too. With today's expanded range of La Mer products, Estee Lauder has added a slew of hocus-pocus ingredients to the continuing list of concoctions that were never in Huber's original formula. So much for the credibility of that mythic story, because it obviously wasn’t good enough to be repeated.
These supplementary products contain malachite, a range of other minerals, diamond powder, something called "declustered" water, and another semiprecious stone, tourmaline (which is now being downplayed in favor of the semiprecious stone du jour, malachite). It's almost too outlandish to even begin explaining, but the declustered water deserves some elucidation. Before reading on, keep in mind that if these products were the ultimate for the Estee Lauder company, why are they still selling all those other anti-aging products in the dozen or so other lines they own and retail just around the cosmetics counter next door?
Supposedly, the La Mer products are worth the money because most of them contain declustered water. Declustered water is water manufactured to have smaller ions, which supposedly makes the water penetrate the skin better. There is no proof that this synthetic water does what the company claims, but even if the water could penetrate better, is that better for skin? There is definitely research indicating that too much water in the skin can make it plump, but that could also prevent cell turnover and renewal, and inhibit the skin's immune response. Either way, skin likes taking on water—it plumps to a thousand times its normal size just from taking a bath—and it doesn't need special water to help the process along, nor would that be good for skin in the long run. Moreover, if the declustered water were indeed capable of carrying La Mer's miracle broth further into skin, that would only make matters worse because some of the components in this broth are documented irritants.
Other gimmicky ingredients La Mer products contain are fish cartilage, algae (explained in the Creme De La Mer review), and the rarefied blue algae, which La Mer claims can "biologically lift" skin due to its nutrient-dense nature. While all of these may have some water-binding properties, the fiction that any of them could have an impact on wrinkles is not substantiated in any published scientific study.
For more information about La Mer, owned by Estee Lauder, call (866) 850-9400 or visit www.cremedelamer.com.
La Mer Makeup
Sold as Skincolor, La Mer's small but tidy makeup collection carries over the major miracle claims that their flawed skin-care products espouse. If you stop by the counter to explore these products, you'll hear all about their powers to "transform the complexion" with a special blue algae ferment and optical-diffusing gemstones (a concept Aveda and Estee Lauder also play up, but not to the extent La Mer does). We wouldn't count on algae or gemstones for any amount of transformation, especially given the small amounts of each included in the cosmetic products below. What you will find are two foundations with excellent sunscreen and a few more skin-care perks than are typically seen in liquid makeup. Does that make them worth the money? Not from my perspective, because you can find similar products that perform just as well. However, if you're already sold on La Mer, most of the items below won't disappoint and the shade selection is mostly impressive. Still, for the money, your face won't look any better than if you had applied makeup that's available at a fraction of this cost.
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