We wanted to rate this oil-absorbing mask with retinol higher, but several factors kept us from doing so. The biggest issue is the jar packaging. Retinol (and the antioxidants this mask contains) break down with ongoing, repeated exposure to light and air—so their anti-aging benefits will likely be lost before you've used much of this mask! That's disheartening given how expensive this is for what's essentially a clay mask.
Although the formula contains exfoliating ingredient salicylic acid, the formula's pH of 5.3 prevents it from working in that manner. That's especially disappointing given the previous version of this mask (Age Intervention Factor-A Plus Mask) was formulated in the correct pH range to take advantage of salicylic acid's exfoliating/pore-clearing ability. The previous formula also wasn't packaged in jar!
The other issue that plays into this mask's price is not only that you're getting a tiny amount (the jar severely misrepresents how much product is inside), but it actually takes quite a bit of this to equal a thin layer applied to the face. By our estimate, you might get 10, maybe 12 uses from this mask before you'd need to replace it. Although this does leave skin smooth and refined and the clay is balanced with emollients to keep it from dehydrating skin, this mask is a mixed bag that didn't win us over.
The fact that this product is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and most other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also present a hygiene issue because even if you wash your hands or use a spatula to remove the product, you're introducing bacteria that causes further breakdown of key ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818-829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271-288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197-203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1-32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
Amplify your anti-aging results – a unique treatment mask with maximum concentration of retinol PLUS advanced anti-aging technologies for long-term skin rejuvenation and an immediate brilliant polished, more refined appearance.
Water/Aqua/Eau, Kaolin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Polysorbate 60, Salicylic Acid, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Bisabolol, Oligopeptide-24, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide 2, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Carrageenan, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol
Jan Marini Skin Research, Inc. At-A-Glance
Strengths: Most of the products are fragrance- and colorant-free; excellent AHA and retinol options, including an AHA combined with sunscreen; the water-soluble cleansers.
Weaknesses: Expensive; some categories contain ingredients (growth factors, hormones, and interferon) with unreliable track records or whose long-term risks, if any, remain unknown; sunscreens that lack sufficient UVA-protecting ingredients; jar packaging; Marini Lash isn't as exciting as Marini’s former lash-enhancing products.
Jan Marini Skin Research, Inc., was founded, of course, by Jan Marini, who originally started out marketing products for M.D. Formulations. Thus, it isn't surprising to find that her own line is also aimed at dermatologists, aestheticians, and plastic surgeons, much the way M.D. Formulations is. In direct contrast to many of the other skin-care lines in this niche market, Marini’s line stands out with its selection of far more realistic and varied skin-care products. First, there are no spiraling-out-of-control ingredient lists where everything is thrown in except the kitchen sink. Then, and more important, you will find some well-formulated products that include sunscreens, skin-lightening options, vitamin C products, and good glycolic acid–based alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) products, along with some outstanding retinol options.
It is interesting to observe that Marini attributes the research for her "topical form of lipid (fat) soluble Vitamin C that is stable and able to be absorbed" to the form "developed in conjunction with physician researcher Nicholas Perricone, M.D." Of course, Perricone has his own version of vitamin C products, which are quite similar to Marini's in that they also contain ascorbyl palmitate. That being the case, given that he claims his are the best ever with the highest concentration of the stuff, we wonder if she would now agree with his findings? At least compared to her former partners at M.D. Formulations, Marini's information about vitamin C is more accurately based (it's backed by published research) and there's only a minimal amount of hyperbole. In fact, when it comes to the information Marini and team present to the professionals who retail their products, this line wins high marks for its close-to-accurate information about how skin ages, what can be done to minimize and prevent future signs of aging, and the effects various products have on skin. Of course, you're supposed to believe her products have all the answers, but that's what the reviews below will elucidate.
For more information about Jan Marini Skin Research, Inc., call (888) 695-2611 or visit www.janmarini.com.
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