If you're going to charge almost $50 for a very standard, potentially drying bar of soap, you need enticing claims, and the claims are the only area where this so-called "treatment" bar excels. On balance, however, this is far from a treat for anyone's skin. The main ingredients make this a classic bar soap, and that means it can be drying and irritating, and also will leave a residue on skin that impedes the performance of any products applied afterward.
The company claims that the spirulina (a type of algae often found in "green food" supplements) is water-activated and "released in phases" to deliver nutrients that stimulate collagen and firmer skin. Whether released in phases or not, spirulina has no research proving it does anything to firm skin or build collagen. Even if it did work, you'd be rinsing it from your face before it could go through the "phases" and improve matters.
This bar soap is also highly fragrant, and fragrance presents its own problems for skin (explained in More Info). This is not a soap we recommend, even if you're not taken aback by the price.
Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).
Our iconic cleansing bar strengthens, renews and firms the skin. Water-activated Spirulina Maxima releases in phases, delivering key nutrients to encourage collagen growth for renewed firmness and elasticity.
Sodium Palmate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Water, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Palm Kernel Acid, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch Octenylsuccinate, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Fragrance (Parfum), Sodium Chloride, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxyethyl Behenamidopropyl Dimonium Chloride, Polyquarternium-67, Hydrolyzed Silica, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Geraniol, Amyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Green 3.
Erno Laszlo At-A-Glance
Strengths: One good toner; some good moisturizers; pH-correct AHA product; tinted moisturizer with sunscreen; workable concealer, powders, and powder blush.
Weaknesses: Expensive; the majority of products contain one or more considerably irritating ingredients; basic skin-care regimen revolves around using drying bar soap and alcohol-laden toners; the TranspHuse line; jar packaging.
According to the company's brochure, Dr. Erno Laszlo, a Hungarian dermatologist, was "the first to combine the exact science of his profession with the art of cosmetology" using "precisely diagnosed treatments dispensed with a doctor's touch." He treated Hungarian royalty, women whose lack of beautiful skin was apparently enough to get them shot in the face by potential suitors (no kidding)—until Laszlo saved the day with his revolutionary products. We admit that that's great copy, but there are rumors that he was never a medical doctor in Hungary or anywhere else in Europe, and he was certainly never licensed to practice medicine in the United States. Medical status aside, the claims and "story" behind these products are just another verse in the litany of hyperbole the cosmetics industry is famous for.
In his time (1920s through the 1930s), Laszlo's notoriety was built on "prescribing" skin-care regimens for wealthy women who could afford to "succumb to the 'Laszlo Ritual' of daily skin care." The ritual included regimented splashing of the face with extremely hot water before and after washing with bar soap. Today's Laszlo ritual talks of harnessing the power of water not only to cleanse skin but also to tone, firm, hydrate, clear, and energize skin. Amazing isn't it? If water alone and a certain splashing technique with traditional bar soap can take care of skin, then what's the point of Laszlo's profusion of (mostly poor) products? Why not just offer some soap and a tip sheet on how to splash most effectively, and let the water perform the miracles the company claims it can? If you think this sounds as ridiculous as we do, imagine trying to explain it to customers without backing away sheepishly. While neighboring cosmetics counters extol advanced formulas claiming to work like Botox or speak of their potent, patented cosmeceutical ingredients, Laszlo's team is going on and on about splashing skin with water and the "clocking system" they use to determine your skin type (a system that is more complicated than helpful).
Looking at historical background is one thing, but the real problem with legendary or ancient skin-care routines is that new research more often than not negates what we once thought to be true. After all, in Laszlo's heyday, no one knew about sun damage or the need for exfoliation, or that hot water can hurt skin and cause surfaced capillaries. Water-soluble cleansers weren't around, no one knew the connection between antioxidants and skin care, elegant sunscreens didn't exist, and Laszlo clearly didn't know that soap is too irritating and that irritation is a problem for skin (it's one of the major causes of collagen destruction). Plus, alkaline substances (that's what soap contains) have research showing they can increase the bacterial content in skin and damage the skin's healing process. With today's gentle cleansing options, there is no need to subject skin to the harshness of soap, regardless of how oily it is.
Further, anyone with any skin type who adheres to routine use of Laszlo's products is only setting themselves up for trouble, whether it's persistent irritation or a dry, tight feeling that will have you reaching for a moisturizer in desperation (and possibly making oily or breakout-prone areas worse as a result). There are some reliable, well-formulated products in this line, but following Laszlo's regimented routine is a path to skin irritation and dryness—and that's not the way to "worship your skin."
For more information about Erno Laszlo, call (888) 352-7956 or visit www.ernolaszlo.com.
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