This eye cream, whose ingredients differ little from those in Dr. Hauschka’s facial moisturizers, is further evidence that most products labeled eye cream aren’t necessary (see More Info for details). In terms of the mostly natural ingredients, it’s a mixed bag of beneficial and problematic (irritating) plant extracts, which makes it a poor product. This has an emollient texture suitable for dry skin anywhere on the face, but the daisy extract, rose water, numerous fragrance ingredients, and alcohol all put your skin at risk of serious irritation. See More Info to learn why irritation from alcohol and fragrance is bad for everyone’s skin.
Irritation from Fragrance
Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin’s ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).
Why Alcohol is a Problem for Skin
Alcohol in skin-care products causes dryness and free-radical damage, and impairs the skin’s ability to heal. The irritation it causes damages healthy collagen production and can stimulate oil production at the base of the pore, making oily skin worse (Sources: “Skin Care—From the Inside Out and Outside In,”Tufts Daily, April 1, 2002; eMedicine Journal, May 8, 2002, volume 3, number 5, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, February 2001, pages 25–27; Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, pages 12–16; and http://pubs.niaaa.nih.gov/publications/arh27-4/277-284.htm).
Why You May Not Need an Eye Cream
Most eye creams aren’t necessary. That’s either because they are poorly formulated, contain nothing special for the eye area, or come in packaging that won’t keep key ingredients stable. Just because the product is labeled as an eye cream doesn’t mean it’s good for your eye area; in fact, many can actually make matters worse. There is much you can do to improve signs of aging around your eyes. Any product loaded with antioxidants, skin-repairing ingredients, skin-lightening ingredients, anti-inflammatory ingredients, and effective emollients will work wonders and those ingredients don’t have to come from a product labeled as an eye cream. You would be shocked how many eye creams lack even the most basic ingredients to help skin. For example, most eye creams don’t contain sunscreen. During the day that is a serious problem because it leaves the skin around your eyes vulnerable to sun damage and this absolutely will make dark circles, puffiness, and wrinkles worse! Whatever product you put around your eye area, regardless of what it is labeled, must be well formulated and appropriate for the skin type around your eyes! That may mean you need an eye cream, but you may also do just as well applying your regular facial moisturizer around your eyes.
This nourishing eye cream diminishes the appearance of wrinkles. Borage seed oil and extracts of hydrating quince seed and birch leaves smooth and refine the delicate skin around the eyes while helping to maintain moisture balance. Silica-rich field horsetail fortifies and tones for a healthy, supple appearance. Skin is invigorated and refreshed.
Water, Glycerin, Pyrus Cydonia Seed Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Betula Alba Leaf Extract, Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract, Alcohol, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Hectorite, Lysolecithin, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Glyceryl Caprylate, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Fragrance, Limonene, Citronellol, Linalool, Geraniol, Farnesol, Benzyl Benzoate, Eugenol, Citral, Benzyl Salicylate, Cetyl Alcohol, Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract, Xanthan Gum, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Bran Extract, Oryzanol, Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Distearate, Malpighia Punicifolia (Acerola) Fruit Extract
Dr. Hauschka At-A-Glance
Strengths: None for skin care; one good lipstick.
Weaknesses: Every skin-care product contains at least one volatile fragrance component or plant ingredient that can be irritating to skin as well as causing increased sensitivity when skin is exposed to sunlight; no sunscreens; the moisturizers are mostly redundant and easily replaced by plain, non-fragrant oils; no products to address even the most basic skin-care concerns; several hokey products with absolutely zero research attesting to their effectiveness.
Dr. Rudolf Hauschka is no longer around, although the Germany-based cosmetics company bearing his name definitely is. Sold primarily at health food stores, the products are a standout for their high prices alone.
If plants are your thing, these formulations, according to the ingredient lists, are some of the most "pure" there are. However, the formulas are a frustrating mix of good and bad natural ingredients, and there are no suitable options for those with oily, combination, or sensitive skin (especially for sensitive skin, as everything, and we mean every product, in this line contains fragrance).
As for the products themselves, despite the inclusion of lots of natural ingredients sure to pique consumer interest, Dr. Hauschka's development team seemingly ignored copious research on skin-care ingredients from the last 20 years or so. For example, almost every product has plant extracts that have irritation potential, and most of the problematic ones have no known benefit for skin, so you're risking irritation without a reward. Instead, the company literature goes on and on about how the products are rhythmically mixed and the spiritual connection between nature and people. It all sounds tempting and quite Zen until you realize such back-to-nature philosophies aren't necessarily the key to a healthy complexion. We have little doubt that most consumers using these products will experience some amount of skin irritation, and the textures of many items are inelegant at best; "silky" is s not a word that comes mind!
We're skeptical about the disclosure of the ingredients in the products because preservatives are not listed. If that is truly the case, the risk of contamination after just a couple of weeks of use is significant, especially considering how many plant extracts these products contain. The company insists that the ingredient lists are accurate and that the natural extracts and essential oils chosen have self-preserving properties—but cosmeti chemistry research doesn't support this; such ingredients don't have the same preservation track records as those (such as the parabens and phenoxyethanol) that show up in thousands of other products.
From a modern, research-supported perspective, this is one of the most ineffective, potentially irritating lines around and a classic example of why natural isn't automatically the best way to go for intelligent skin care. The moisturizers have their share of helpful ingredients for dry skin, but are about as state-of-the-art as a console television.
In early 2009 the company announced that they discontinued all of their sunscreens. This decision was in response to new European Union regulations governing labeling for products with UVA-protecting ingredients. Dr. Hauschka will not formulate a sunscreen with synthetic active ingredients, and from everything we've read and from all of the discussions we've had with cosmetic chemists about this issue, there is no way a sunscreen can meet the EU's new UVA standards without including a synthetic active.
For more information about Dr. Hauschka, call (800) 247-9907 or visit www.drhauschka.com.
Dr. Hauschka Makeup
Termed Decorative Cosmetics, the collection doesn't much reason to give this makeup more than a passing glance, as the products are downright ordinary to inadequate, and the prices should snap even the most meditative soul back to reality. Sadly, every color cosmetic product from this brand, even those meant for use around the eyes, contains one or more problematic fragrance ingredients.
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