Dermalogica's Skin Hydrating Masque used to be more irritating than beneficial, but thankfully, the formula has been revamped for the better. This mask now treats skin to an anti-aging mix of antioxidant-rich plant extracts and moisturizing ingredients galore to leave dry skin softer, smoother, and more hydrated. It isn't a complete homerun (for reasons we detail below), but it still has merit for normal to dry skin.
Packaged in an opaque squeeze tube, Skin Hydrating Masque has a silky-cream lotion-like texture that smooths across skin without feeling heavy or greasy. You're instructed to allow the fragrance-free formula to absorb into skin for up to ten minutes and then rinse with tepid water. If you have very dry skin, there's absolutely no reason you couldn't just leave it on rather than rinsing. Doing so will give the beneficial ingredients more time to go to work on skin.
Speaking of the beneficial ingredients, there are several to note including the highly touted hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate on the ingredient list) which Dermalogica claims "traps moisture to deliver time-released hydration for lasting suppleness." That's actually true in terms of sodium hyaluronate's ability to absorb moisture from the environment, and this benefit adds to the overall moisturizing benefits of this mask.
On the other side, this also contains wild carrot extract (Daucus carota), which has a potential to provoke reaction for those who are allergic to the plant (Contact Dermatitis, 2014). We're not overly concerned about it in this formula, but given that it has little documented benefit for skin applied topically, we wish Dermalogica would have just left it out.
As far their claim that, "lycopene-rich Tomato Seed lipids help restore skin's protective barrier, enhancing moisture levels for healthier, smoother skin," that's a stretch, but combined with the other emollients and skin-repairing ingredients in the formula that's possible, so we'll cut them some slack.
In the end, Skin Hydrating Masque earns a good rating for its beneficial mix of ingredients. It's a bit on the pricey side for something you're instructed to rinse off skin within ten minutes, but it's a respectable option for its intended skin type nonetheless.
According to company history, Dermalogica products came into being because founder Jane Wurwand could not find a spa-oriented skin-care line that met her criteria. She was dismayed that so many skincare lines aimed at the aesthetics market had products that contained alcohol, artificial colors, fragrance, mineral oil, and lanolin, ingredients he believed had a well-documented history of problems. That's true for fragrance and alcohol (and artificial colors to a lesser extent), but mineral oil and lanolin have no documented history of causing skin problems.
The line is positioned as a no-nonsense, no frills take on skincare, with clinically-inspired packaging that does protect its beneficial ingredients from light and air. Speaking of ingredients, Dermalogica does include a lot of beneficial ones in its skincare, though there are a number of formulas in the line that also make the misstep of including potentially-irritating fragrance ingredients.
For more information about Dermalogica now owned by Unilever, call 1-800-345-2761 or visit www.dermalogica.com.
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