Despite the name and the claims for this product, we are skeptical that it contains 1% retinol as the name suggests. We base our skepticism on the ingredient list, where retinol is listed after phenoxyethanol, a preservative typically used at 1% or less, with 1% being the maximum amount permitted for use in cosmetics (Source: Preservatives for Cosmetics, Second Edition, Allured Publishing, page 30). That means the amount of retinol would be far less that 1%.
I am also concerned that the number of anti-irritants included, while impressive at first glance, don’t add up to much benefit for skin given their overall minor presence in this pricey formula. Add to that the higher than usual amount of acrylates (which can be irritating) and this doesn’t shake out to be one of the gentler retinol products available. The packaging will keep the retinol and other sensitive ingredients stable during use, which is good news. At the end of the day, given the price and the formulary concerns, you’re better off looking to the retinol products from Skinceuticals or, for far less money, from Neutrogena and RoC. Those still considering this product should know it is best for normal to slightly dry skin.
This innovative 1% retinol formulation contains a sophisticated anti-irritant complex to help reduce concerns commonly associated with the use of retinol. A clinically proven agent in the fight against the signs of aging, retinol helps increase dermal thickness and collagen production. Refines complexion, restores a youthful vibrancy and aids in skin firming.
Water, Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate, Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclomethicone, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Stearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Polysorbate 60, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Carbomer, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Oleanolic Acid, Dimethicone, Phytosphingosine, Caffeine, Bisabolol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tea Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Leontopodium Alpinum (Edelweiss) Extract, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Chamomile) Matricaria Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Ceramide 2, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, BHT, Hypericum Perforatum (St. John’s Wort) Leaf Extract, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Sambucus Nigra (Elderberry) Flower Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Leucine, Valine, Tyrosine, Arginine, Lysine
Strengths: Company provides complete product ingredient lists on its Web site; well formulated AHA products; sunscreens provide critical broad-spectrum protection, good oil-control product; a couple of great, though pricey, cleansers.
Weaknesses: Expensive; mostly poor anti-acne products; anti-wrinkle products making imossible claims; clinical studies alluded to are not made available to the public (which is odd, given that this is a brand fronted by a dermatologist); some product formulas suffer due to jar packaging.
The DERMAdoctor line is the brainchild of Kansas City-based dermatologist Dr. Audrey Kunin. Dr. Kunin's Web site retails not only the DERMAdoctor brand but several products from other brands, many of which have ties to specific dermatologic concerns (everything from athlete's foot to warts). Many of these specialty products are available from your local drugstore, but Kunin's site provides helpful, mostly reliable information concerning various skin-care concerns.
We wish her own products followed the strength of her advice, but alas, most do not. This is another dermatologist-developed line with plenty of products whose names and claims make you think they're a cosmetic corrective procedure in a bottle (or, in some cases, a jar, which is never a good packaging move). There are some products to pay attention to, though whether you want to strongly consider them or not comes down to how much you feel comfortable spending (DERMAdoctor products aren't cheap).
DERMAdoctor isn't exactly "your prescription for beautiful skin" but Dr. Kunin gets enough right that her line isn't one to gloss over, particularly if you're shopping for sunscreens, AHA products, and facial cleansers. Those with acne should look elsewhere, because DERMAdoctor's products don't have the solution, despite their cute product names.
For more information about DERMAdoctor, call (877) 337-6237 or visit www.dermadoctor.com.
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