This moisturizer includes a Cream and Gel formula housed in separate chambers inside one component. Each chamber has its own pump so you can control how much of either side you dispense per application. That may seem convenient and the customization element is nice, but both formulas (you get 0.5 fl. oz. of each) contain several problematic fragrant ingredients as well as some plant extracts with no established benefit for skin, at least not beyond what Decleor asserts. See More Info to learn why daily use of highly fragrant products is a problem for all skin types.
There's no legitimate reason for the cream and gel to be separate, as some of their ingredients overlap and it's not as though mixing them together yourself does something magical to make skin more radiant. From a formulary perspective, these ingredients could easily come in one product.
Decleor maintains that the formula's plant prebiotics contribute to radiance, but the only ingredient making skin more radiant is the mica it contains, which is a standard shiny mineral pigment present in hundreds of moisturizers—its radiance-boosting effect is hardly unique to Decleor! Moreover, you can enjoy the radiance boost from mica without exposing skin to irritating ingredients known to be problematic (and for a lot less money, too!). By the way, prebiotics are non-digestible nutrients (such as certain fruit sugars that, when consumed, the body cannot digest; think of fiber), which, once in the digestive system (not on skin), help foster the growth of beneficial bacteria.
Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).
DECLÉOR combined radiance-activating Essential Oils of Élémi and Saro with a natural defence-boosting prebiotic of plant origin, to act on the 4 key factors contributing to radiance.
Cream (0.5 fl. oz.): Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Silica, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Cellulose, Arachidyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Cetearyl Glucoside, Behenyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Titanium Dioxide, Cetyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Parfum (Fragrance), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Amorphophallus Konjac Root Powder, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Vernonia Appendiculata Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Mica, Maltodextrin, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract, Canarium Commune Gum Oil, Disodium EDTA, Limonene, Potassium Hydroxide, Iron Oxides, Linalool, Cinnamosma Fragrans Leaf Oil, Methylisothiazolinone, Geraniol, Citronellol.
Gel (0.5 fl. oz.): Water) Propanediol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Phospholipids, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein Octenylsuccinate, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Commiphora Pterocarpa Leaf Cell Extract, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Strengths: None of note.
Weaknesses: Expensive; pervasive use of volatile essential oils that have limited to no benefit for skin and are known irritants; almost all the sunscreens lack the right UVA-protecting ingredients; no product to address acne or skin discolorations; inappropriate jar packaging.
What can you say about a skin-care line where almost 85% of the products contain volatile, fragrant plant oils that have research showing they are irritating to skin? Few lines in this book received so many unhappy faces for this reason alone—yet those very oils are Decleor's claim to fame. This spa-oriented company was begun in 1975 by a massage therapist and is now owned in part by Japan-based Shiseido (whose sunscreens trounce Decleor's by leaps and bounds).
Decleor is all about aromatherapy for skin. They speak freely of the purity of the essential oils they use and the distillation processes that keep them active, but that's precisely the cause for concern. Yes, lavender, bitter orange, rose, geranium, neroli, and other "essential" oils smell wonderful, but the very ingredients that create those intoxicating scents are what is responsible for causing skin irritation, inflammation, and, in some cases, phototoxic reactions. These essential oils have active constituents but, because they are not regulated as such, any company can use whichever ones they like in any concentration. Moreover, companies don't have to indicate the quantities that were used, leaving the consumer to guess. The concept of aromatherapy has well-established benefits concerning inhalation of scents and the effects they have on one's mood and, sometimes, physiological function. But enjoying these oils via inhalation (where they really can be beneficial) is different from applying them to skin, where hypersensitivity is well-documented and topical usage is cautioned (Sources: Current Pharmaceutical Design, December 2006, pages 3393–3399; Phytotherapy Research, September 2006, pages 758–763; European Journal of Oncology Nursing, April 2006, pages 140–149; The Journal of Nursing, August 2005, pages 11–15; and www.naturaldatabase.com).
Not only are most of Decleor's products a giant step backward for your skin, they're also a real misfortune when you consider Decleor's terrible sunscreens and lack of truly state-of-the-art ingredients. In short, experiencing these products in a relaxing spa environment may make you feel refreshed or invigorated—but if your goal is establishing a sensible, effective skin-care routine, you’ll need to keep shopping.
For more information about Decleor, call (888) 414-4471 or www.decleor.com.
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