This eye cream has a delicate, gel-cream texture, but its main ingredients are orange fruit and peppermint leaf water, which, though diluted, are still far too irritating to use around the eyes.
Further down the list are fragrant neroli oil and other fragrance components, such as amyl cinnamal, linalool, and limonene -- all problematic ingredients for skin that have no research showing they are capable of diminishing dark circles and puffiness. If anything, the irritating ingredients in this moisturizer will create, not ease, puffy eyes. Actually, almost all the plant ingredients in this eye cream are a problem for skin anywhere on the face. On another note; be sure to see More Info to learn why, in truth,most eye creams are not necessary -- and also learn how irritation hurts your skin.
What about Decleor's reference to aquaporins? They're a group of 13 different cellular membrane proteins that form water channels in living things to regulate the water content of skin and other organs.
Aquaporin 3 is abundant in the skin of humans and animals. In relation to aquaporin 3, glycerol absorption and transportation through these "water channels" is fundamental to preventing water loss and increasing skin's elasticity.
Certain aquaporins can transport other substances between cells, which can be very helpful or harmful, depending on what's being transported. Decreased function of aquaporins in skin can be one of the hallmarks of dry skin, leading to less elasticity and reduced barrier function (Sources: Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States, June 10, 2003, pages 7360-7365; and The Journal of Experimental Biology, October 2003, page 3).
Ingredients that stimulate aquaporin activity in skin may or may not be helpful, but what's certain is you don't need to tolerate a product with irritating ingredients to see improvement in dryness or signs of aging!
Why You May Not Need an Eye Cream:
Most eye creams aren't necessary. That's either because they are poorly formulated, contain nothing special for the eye area, or come in packaging that won't keep key ingredients stable. Just because the product is labeled as an eye cream doesn't mean it's good for your eye area; in fact, many can actually make matters worse.
There is much you can do to improve signs of aging around your eyes. Any product loaded with antioxidants, skin-repairing ingredients, skin-lightening ingredients, anti-inflammatory ingredients, and effective emollients will work wonders and those ingredients don't have to come from a product labeled as an eye cream.
You would be shocked how many eye creams lack even the most basic ingredients to help skin. For example, most eye creams don't contain sunscreen. During the day that is a serious problem because it leaves the skin around your eyes vulnerable to sun damage and this absolutely will make dark circles, puffiness, and wrinkles worse!
Whatever product you put around your eye area, regardless of what it is labeled, must be well formulated and appropriate for the skin type around your eyes! That may mean you need an eye cream, but you may also do just as well applying your regular facial moisturizer around your eyes.
Why Irritation is a Problem for All Skin Types:
Irritation, whether you see it on the surface of your skin or not, causes inflammation and as a result impairs healing, damages collagen, and depletes the vital substances your skin needs to stay young. For these reasons, it is best to eliminate, or minimize as much as possible, your exposure to known skin irritants, especially when there are brilliant formulas available that do not include these types of problematic ingredients (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558-563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124-135, and November-December 2000, pages 358-371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15-19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78-82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92-105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13-S22).
This delicate gel-cream, specifically formulated for the sensitive eye area, is a new-generation moisturiser using the technology of aquaporins – true cell irrigation channels – and targeted active plant ingredients.
Water, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Water, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Butylene Glycol, Siloxanetriol Alginate, Saccharide Isomerate, Polyacrylamide, Panthenol, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Neroli Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Melilotus Officinalis Extract, CodiumTomentosum Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Water, HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Glycol Palmitate, Cellulose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Laureth-7, Caffeine, Dextrin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Tetrasodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Silica, Triethanolamine, Linalool, Amyl Cinnamal, Coumarin, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate
Strengths: None of note.
Weaknesses: Expensive; pervasive use of volatile essential oils that have limited to no benefit for skin and are known irritants; almost all the sunscreens lack the right UVA-protecting ingredients; no product to address acne or skin discolorations; inappropriate jar packaging.
What can you say about a skin-care line where almost 85% of the products contain volatile, fragrant plant oils that have research showing they are irritating to skin? Few lines in this book received so many unhappy faces for this reason alone—yet those very oils are Decleor's claim to fame. This spa-oriented company was begun in 1975 by a massage therapist and is now owned in part by Japan-based Shiseido (whose sunscreens trounce Decleor's by leaps and bounds).
Decleor is all about aromatherapy for skin. They speak freely of the purity of the essential oils they use and the distillation processes that keep them active, but that's precisely the cause for concern. Yes, lavender, bitter orange, rose, geranium, neroli, and other "essential" oils smell wonderful, but the very ingredients that create those intoxicating scents are what is responsible for causing skin irritation, inflammation, and, in some cases, phototoxic reactions. These essential oils have active constituents but, because they are not regulated as such, any company can use whichever ones they like in any concentration. Moreover, companies don't have to indicate the quantities that were used, leaving the consumer to guess. The concept of aromatherapy has well-established benefits concerning inhalation of scents and the effects they have on one's mood and, sometimes, physiological function. But enjoying these oils via inhalation (where they really can be beneficial) is different from applying them to skin, where hypersensitivity is well-documented and topical usage is cautioned (Sources: Current Pharmaceutical Design, December 2006, pages 3393–3399; Phytotherapy Research, September 2006, pages 758–763; European Journal of Oncology Nursing, April 2006, pages 140–149; The Journal of Nursing, August 2005, pages 11–15; and www.naturaldatabase.com).
Not only are most of Decleor's products a giant step backward for your skin, they're also a real misfortune when you consider Decleor's terrible sunscreens and lack of truly state-of-the-art ingredients. In short, experiencing these products in a relaxing spa environment may make you feel refreshed or invigorated—but if your goal is establishing a sensible, effective skin-care routine, you’ll need to keep shopping.
For more information about Decleor, call (888) 414-4471 or www.decleor.com.
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