This fragranced moisturizing mask for normal to dry skin claims to exfoliate skin along with tighten pores and reduce oily skin. The amount of fatty acid triglyceride and plant oil this contains negate the pore-tightening claim, as both of these ingredients are emollients that moisturize skin, which has nothing to do with making pores tighter. As for exfoliation, this contains a potentially effective amount of glycolic acid at a pH approaching 4, which allows exfoliation to occur. In that sense, you can think of this as a moisturizing mask that also exfoliates skin, not a pore-tightening mask that promotes clearer skin.
One frustration with this product is that it contains more fragrance than it should, and fragrance isn’t skin care. The amount of fragrance poses a risk of irritation, but that’s less of an issue for a product like this that’s used occasionally for a few minutes, then rinsed.
The claim of Caudalie’s “Viniferine” (from grapes) being 62 times as effective as vitamin C is not supported by published research. It’s just a marketing claim because Caudalie is all about grapes, often to the exclusion of other beneficial antioxidants. Even if it was as great as they say, so what? There are many antioxidants available, so comparing one to another isn’t really helpful. Why not acknowledge both are great and include them (plus others) in one product? And why use such a tiny amount (this mask contains far more fragrance than the fabled grapevine extract)?
This exfoliating mask tightens pores, reduces sebum, clarifies and renews skin texture. In 10 minutes, reveal a brand new glowing complexion. An innovative combination of peeling and ultra-soothing active ingredients, this creamy mask offers an immediate radiance boost and a unique new-skin effect for all skin types. The skin texture is refined and pores are tightened. The complexion appears fresh, even and luminous. Patented Viniferine, a natural compound from vine sap, brightens, lightens and evens. Viniferine is 62x more effective than Vitamin C.
Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Sorbitan Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycolic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Panthenol, Squalane, Bisabolol, Dimethicone, Sodium Hydroxide, Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum (Fragrance), Polysorbate 60, Sodium PCA, Caprylyl Glycol, Arginine, Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Dehydroacetic Acid, Carbomer/Papain Crosspolymer, Cetyl Palmitate, Sodium Phytate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Algin
Caudalie Paris At-A-Glance
Strengths: Good cleansers; an excellent scrub for dry skin; air-tight packaging; a good lip balm and moisturizing mask; one truly state-of-the-art moisturizer for dry skin (one is better than none).
Weaknesses: Expensive; mundane to irritating serums, moisturizers, and eye creams; limited sun protection options; no AHA or BHA products; no products to lighten skin discolorations; several products contain irritating plant extracts.
Let's pour ourselves a glass of wine before we begin this review. Okay, now that we are adequately prepared we can, in effect, review this line without smirking. Why wine? Because Caudalie is a skin-care line whose ambience is intended to evoke the importance and value of grapes for your skin. Are you ready for this? Caudalie is in fact a term used in wine tasting; it is an actual measurement used to indicate how long the taste of a wine stays on your palate: 1 caudalie = 1 second. So, if you can still taste the wine in your mouth 1 second after swallowing it, that's 1 caudalie; 2 seconds after swallowing, that's 2 caudalie, and so on. And, supposedly, the more caudalie the wine has the more elegant and superior it is.
What does any of that have to do with skin care? From Caudalie Paris's perspective, everything, because clearly they think the grape is the cornerstone for formulating any skin-care product. After reading their information you could easily assume that Welch's Grape Juice could be used as a toner. But of course that's not what Caudalie has in mind, because it's their formulas they want you to count on, not Welch's juice.
It turns out that grape extract, grape oil, and other parts of the grape do have mounting research proving that they do have benefit for skin when applied topically. Red grapes (stem, seed, pulp, and especially the skin) contain proanthocyanidin and resveratrol, naturally occurring compounds that are considered very potent antioxidants. There is also impressive research showing how helpful these compounds are for reducing the sun's damaging effects, and that topical application plays a role in wound healing. (Sources: Photochemistry and Photobiology, March-April 2008, pages 415–421; Journal of Medicinal Food, December 2007, pages 636–642, and June 2007, pages 337–344; and Free Radical Biology and Medicine, October 2002, pages 1089–1092).
The research is significant, but (excuse me while we take another sip of wine) what's ludicrous—and disappointing—about the Caudalie products is that most of them don't contain a significant amount of grape extract, and resveratrol (the most potent compound in the grape) is entirely absent. Without question, Caudalie could have formulated products that included a larger amount of grapes and their beneficial compounds—at least it would have given more resonance to their story that the grapes in their products offer long-lasting antioxidant protection to every cell.
Getting back to the research on grapes, what's important to keep in mind is that while grapes are a great source of antioxidant protection, there are also hundreds of other plant extracts, vitamins, and minerals with potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. No single ingredient has achieved the coveted status of "best" when it comes to skin (or health) care. Almost all antioxidants appear to have some benefit for skin, and while some are indeed more stable or more potent than others, there is still no reason to get wrapped up in any single ingredient, any more than your diet should have only one food group for adequate nutrition. Plus, skin needs more than one single antioxidant; thinking otherwise is like believing you can subsist on drinking wine or eating grapes and nothing else. For skin, cell-communicating ingredients, skin-identical ingredients, sun protection, and exfoliants are all fundamental to superior skin care, yet in Caudalie's narrow view, each comes up short.
Although almost all Caudalie products contain a small amount of grapes in one form or another, they don't offer much else for skin, and several of their products contain irritating plant extracts that not only hurt skin but also work against the beneficial compounds from the grapes. In addition, no antioxidant stands much chance of helping skin if you're not protecting your skin from sunlight.
As much as Caudalie would like you to believe that their botanical cocktails are the sought-after fountain of youth, for the most part, you'd be far better off spending your money on fresh grapes, grape juice, or a vintage bottle of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon!
For more information about Caudalie Paris, call (866) 826-1615 or visit www.caudalie.com.
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