Clementine + C Illuminating Toner's formula is mostly positive, and earns a GOOD rating due to its variety of antioxidants and anti-irritants in a lightly moisturizing formula that's best for combination to oily skin, and even for those prone to breakouts.
We appreciate that Andalou Naturals took care to package this in a tinted bottle with a spray top, thus protecting the delicate ingredients from light and air exposure. We will say, however, that we are concerned about spraying any skin-care product on the face due to the risk of getting the ingredients in your eyes or inhaling them.
This would have earned a BEST rating had it not included citrus fragrance ingredients. While these are only a minor part of the formula, they still mean this product may be problematic for some, such as those with extra-sensitive skin or rosacea.
That caveat aside, this does include an impressive amount of proven antioxidants, such as vitamin C (as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), tea extracts (rooibos and white tea), and others. There is glycolic acid present as well, but the amount is low and likely it will function more as a moisturizing/humectant ingredient—in other words, this toner won't replace your AHA exfoliant by any stretch.
Due to the relatively minor amount of moisturizing ingredients, this is likely not a perfect match for those with normal to dry skin, and it's for certain that aloe vera doesn't "oxygenate" the skin as claimed. In fact, that's a good thing because adding more oxygen to the skin would translate into increasing free-radical damage, which ages skin.
A quick note on the claim Andalou Naturals makes of balancing your skin's pH with a toner. This is a throwback to the '80s, when toners were recommended as a way to restore the skin's pH balance after using a bar soap or bar cleanser, which tended to raise the skin's natural pH to a level that isn't good for your skin. Really, it is just best to avoid bar soaps in general.
However, given that today's gentle, water-soluble cleansers have a pH of 5 to 7—water has a pH of about 7—if you're using the cleanser with water, then the pH of the cleanser doesn't really matter anyway. The skin's pH doesn't change appreciably when you're cleansing with a water-soluble cleanser, and the fact that the skin's pH recovers just fine on its own makes the need for toners to adjust the skin's pH fade away.
Note: Please totally ignore the claims made about the fruit stem cell ingredients in this toner (see More Info if you wish to read the considerable details explaining why). While these ingredients aren't harmful or irritating to the skin (and can have antioxidant benefit), there is no research to support the claims of regenerating skin or functioning like your skin's own stem cells, which would push this product from its status as a cosmetic to a drug. The notion that plant stem cells can "renew dormant cells, repair damaged cells, or regenerate healthy cells" may be true for a plant, but it isn't for human skin.
Stem cells are cells in animals and plants that are capable of becoming any other type of cell in that organism and of producing more of those cells. Despite the fact that stem cell research is in its infancy, many cosmetics companies claim they are successfully using plant-based or human-derived stem cells in their anti-aging products. The claims run the gamut, from reducing wrinkles to elastin repair and cell regeneration, so the temptation for consumers to try these is intense.
The truth is that stem cells in skin-care products do not work as claimed. In fact, they likely have no effect at all because stem cells must be alive to function as stem cells. Once these delicate cells are added to skin-care products, they are long dead and, therefore, useless.
Plant stem cells, such as those derived from apples, melons, flowers, and rice, cannot stimulate stem cells in human skin, but because they are from plants these ingredients likely have antioxidant
properties. Actually, it's a good thing plant stem cells can't work as stem cells in skin-care products; after all, you don't want your skin to absorb cells that can grow into apples or watermelons!
There are also claims that because a plant's stem cells allow a plant to repair itself or to survive in harsh climates, these benefits can be passed on to human skin. How a plant functions in nature is unrelated to human skin, and these claims are completely without substantiation.
Another twist on the issue is that cosmetics company's claim they have taken components (such as peptides) out of the plant stem cells and made them stable so they then can work as stem cells. This approach is not valid because stem cells must be complete to function normally. Even if you could isolate substances or extracts from these cells and make them stable, there is no published research showing they can affect stem cells in human skin.
Fruit Stem Cell Complex, superfruit antioxidants, and Vitamin C, work as powerful cell energizers to target hyperpigmentation and UV damage, improving skin tone and texture. Aloe vera effectively hydrates and oxygenates, balancing pH, and stimulating circulation for healthy luminosity.
Aloe Barbadensis Juice, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Lauric Acid, Fruit Stem Cells (Malus Domestica, Solar Vitis) and BioActive 8 Berry Complex, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Citrus Clementina (Clementine) and Cucumis Melo (Melon) Extracts, Glycolic Acid, Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos), Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis and Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Extracts, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) and Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oils
Strengths: Good options for well-formulated facial moisturizers and serums; many products contain multiple antioxidants; a few good toners; (mostly) refreshingly free of hyperbole that is common with many “natural-themed” brands; reasonably priced products; multiple broad-spectrum sunscreen options.
Weaknesses: A few moisturizers packaged in jars; some products contain potentially problematic amounts of fragrance ingredients; lacks research-proven treatments for acne; the body-care products tend to be overly fragrant; claims about plant stem cells are over the top as they don’t renew or generate human cells of any kind.
Andalou Naturals is a rare presence in the saturated market of natural-themed cosmetics lines because the brand manages to keep the focus on their products and ingredients without resorting to the silly “scary chemical” and fear-mongering marketing approach common to so many other natural lines.
Just as impressive as their marketing are many of their formulas, several of which include many antioxidants and multiple skin-repairing ingredients, and aren’t laden with natural fragrance ingredients, which may please your nose but can be very irritating to the skin, even if you don’t see or feel the damage taking place.
Headquartered in Petaluma, California, Andalou Naturals was founded by husband and wife Mark and Stacey Egide—both of whom also created the Avalon Organics line. The duo sold Avalon Organics in 2002, and started Andalou Naturals in 2011, where it’s sold at health food stores and online.
Visit their site and you’ll quickly find the brand is focused on the “feel-good” approach to skin care. Andalou Naturals brand philosophy is heavily steeped in philanthropy: Their “A Force of Nature” fund regularly donates to various nonprofit groups, and every order you place on their site adds $1 to this fund. How wonderful!
Andalou Naturals offers an extensive line of face-, body-, and hair-care products, themed around what they call, “Fruit Stem Cell Science,” which includes extracts from apple, grape, and argan. While these types of ingredients have antioxidant benefit, the idea that they work like your stem cells to turn back time isn’t supported by published research of any kind.
Stem cells work only if they are alive, and in a skin-care product, they are long dead. Not to mention that even if stem cells could survive the skin-care formulation process, an apple stem cell is helpful only to an apple—your skin cells wouldn’t have the first clue how to use stem cells from a plant. Stem-cell research is still in its infancy—science is just beginning to understand how stem cells work and/or how they can actually benefit our health; the cosmetics industry isn’t beating the medical industry in this regard!
The company also includes what they refer to as “BioActive 8 Berry Complex” in many of their products. This is really a blanket name for a mix of non-fragrant berry juice extracts (acai, aronia, bearberry, bilberry, black elderberry, goji berry, rosehips berry, and sea buckthorn berry). All of these ingredients have antioxidant function on the skin, but, again, they aren’t miracle ingredients by any stretch, nor is Andalou Naturals the only line using them.
We should note that Andalou Naturals, at the time of this review, doesn’t list all of the ingredients in their “BioActive 8 Berry Complex” on their product labels. While the individual berry extracts mentioned above are listed on their website as part of their marketing messaging, they omit them on their products, which violates International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) and FDA labeling regulatory requirements. This is an important oversight, because you have the right to know all of the ingredients in your skin-care products, without having to jump through extra hoops. We hope the company rectifies this in the near future.
On a more positive note, we found that many of the skin-care products Andalou Naturals offers were good—mostly for normal to dry skin, although there also are a few winners for those with oily to combination skin. Many contain some amount of fragrance (but to their credit, the facial formulas that did contain fragrance mostly had only a minimum amount, which is not typical of natural-themed lines).
We were especially impressed that they avoided the boring or basic formulas so common among natural skin-care brands. Several of their products contain the types of beneficial ingredients that have plenty of published research to back up their claims. What a great change of pace!
The missteps were the few instances of jar packaging (which marred what would’ve otherwise been well-rated products) that expose delicate ingredients to air and light, as well as their body-care formulas, which tended to include higher amounts of fragrance.
For more information, call (888) 898-6955, or visit www.andalou.com.
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