White Charcoal Mattifying MakeUp Setting Spray
White Charcoal Mattifying MakeUp Setting Spray utilizes a blend of absorbent ingredients to help control skin's oily shine throughout the day. Unfortunately, the formula takes a turn for the worse due to the fragrant eucalyptus and rosemary oils that make this an iffy choice for skin (see More Info for the full scoop).
Otherwise, we would've recommend this setting spray for its ability to mattify oily skin. How long it can hold back that shine depends on how oily your skin is and the other products you apply, but at the very least, you can expect a couple extra hours of shine reduction, which in return, can help your makeup last longer.
If you decide to give this a go despite our caution against the fragranced formula, there are a few things to note: Boscia advises giving the bottle a good shake before each use to evenly mix the fluid formula—you absolutely need to do this. Also, be advised that when spraying this over makeup, you should hold the bottle at a distance to achieve a fine mist.
When applying this directly to skin pre-makeup, the larger droplets from a closer spray don't matter as much since you can easily blend them into skin (but try to avoid your eye area due to the sensitizing ingredients). Last but not least, despite the claims, don't expect this formula to be hydrating—the absorbency can actually feel slightly drying depending on how heavily you spray this on.
- Mattifies skin as promised and helps hold back shine for at least a couple hours.
- Helps makeup last longer by tempering oily skin.
- Contains fragrant oils known to be irritating to skin.
- The fragrant oils can also irritate eyes and the mist make eye contact harder to avoid.
- More likely to dry skin than hydrate it, despite claims.
This reaction in turn leads to all kinds of problems, including disrupting skin's barrier, worsening dryness, increasing or triggering redness, depleting vital substances in skin's surface, and generally preventing skin from looking healthy, smooth, and hydrated. Fragrance free is always the best way to go for all skin types.
A surprising fact: Even though you can't always see or feel the negative effects of fragrant ingredients on skin, the damage will still be taking place, even if it's not evident on the surface. Research has demonstrated that you don't need to see or feel the effects of irritation for your skin to be suffering. Much like the effects from cumulative sun damage, the negative impact and the visible damage from fragrance may not become apparent for a long time.
References for this information:
Biochimica and Biophysica Acta, May 2012, pages 1410–1419
Aging, March 2012, pages 166–175
Chemical Immunology and Allergy, March 2012, pages 77–80
Experimental Dermatology, October 2009, pages 821–832
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2008, pages 191–202
International Journal of Toxicology, Volume 27, 2008, Supplement, pages 1–43
Food and Chemical Toxicology, February 2008, pages 446–475
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2003, pages 789–798
The White Charcoal Mattifying MakeUp Setting Spray provides continuous oil control for hydrated skin, all-day makeup wear, and a matte finish. The fine mist sets makeup as it simultaneously treats the skin with a blend of effective botanical ingredients known for their absorbent properties. Binchotan white charcoal controls excess oil, detoxifies the pores, and balances the skin's moisture content. Artichoke leaf extract and black tea visibly minimize the appearance of enlarged pores instantly and over time by increasing skin elasticity and brightening the pore wall. Vitamin-rich, antioxidant black tea also works to protect skin against free radical damage.
Strengths: All of the sunscreens provide sufficient UVA protection; the packaging not only keeps the plant-based and antioxidant ingredients stable but also helps minimize these preservative-free products' exposure to bacteria and organisms that can cause unhealthy changes; some good cleansers and moisturizers.
Weaknesses: Expensive considering the smaller-than-average sizes; several products are marred by the inclusion of irritating ingredients; no effective options for managing acne; only one poor option for fading skin discolorations.
Hailing from Japan and distributed through Fancl International in California, Boscia has two unique selling points: first, the entire line of products is preservative-free; second, almost every product contains both the anti-irritant willow herb plus jojoba leaf, which supposedly has superior antioxidant properties. The company's belief is that preservatives do not make skin-care products more effective; rather, they simply extend the product's shelf life, sort of like Tupperware keeps food fresher, longer.
They also believe that preservatives are responsible for skin troubles such as rashes and breakouts, and so our skin is better off without them. This is an interesting philosophy, and, as is true for many marketing ploys, there is some truth and some fabrication in their assertions.
Although preservatives can be sensitizing, they usually are present in such minute amounts that most consumers do not experience any trouble, and their skin barely registers a flicker of recognition. In reality, only a few people ever react to any amount of a preservative. A report that examined preservative sensitization in the United Kingdom tested 10 common preservatives on almost 7,000 subjects. The results? Only 2% of the participants exhibited an allergic reaction, and that was under conditions of patch testing and using a pure concentration of the preservative. That reaction rate is amazingly low, and its important to note that the exposure in the study (extremely high given the pure concentration and use of the patch method) is quite different from the exposure you get from the minuscule amounts of preservatives present in cosmetic products, which are there to keep potentially harmful bacteria and organisms under control.
Similar results were seen in a Swiss study that examined preservative sensitization rates among almost 2,300 subjects over a period of one year (Source: Contact Dermatitis, September 2007, pages 165168, and May 1994, pages 276279). Clearly, as demonstrated by these studies, preservatives are not the source of skin problems that Boscia makes them out to be.
What Boscia doesn't acknowledge is the research showing that preservatives do make cosmetics better. An effective preservative system absolutely does safeguard the integrity of fragile or inherently unstable ingredients by minimizing the growth of bacteria and microbes, which definitely are detrimental to any cosmetic and to your skin. Cosmetics chemists worldwide consider preservatives an essential element in providing safe, stable products (as do cosmetics regulatory agencies throughout the world).
Surely the chemists behind Boscia's products must know that it is impossible to keep a skin-care product entirely free of bacteria and pathogens, even with preservatives. If they disputed this point, they wouldn't sell their products with a "use by" date or recommend that their customers use the entire product within six months of opening. Instead, they'd assert their superiority and let their customers know that their innovative and specialized practices alone are enough to keep their products free of contaminants.
It's also important to note that, technically, Boscia products are not entirely preservative-free. Some of the plant extracts they include (such as rosemary and lavender) have mild preservative properties due to their volatile chemical components. Even zinc oxide, which appears in a handful of Boscia products, has been shown to inhibit the growth of fungus when used in cosmetics products (Source: Preservatives in Cosmetics, 2nd Edition, Allured Publishing, Steinberg, 2006, page 105). We personally wouldn't choose one of these ingredients to preserve a water-based skin-care product over tried-and-true synthetic preservatives (including the unfairly and foolishly maligned parabens), but then again, consumers considering Boscia will likely perceive their products as being more natural (and, therefore, safer) than those from other lines, when that isn't at all the truth.
Besides, if Boscia is so concerned about reducing skin reactions and with being a viable option for people with sensitive skin, why do several of their products contain known irritants? Peppermint, menthol, eucalyptus oil, clove oil, and pepper resin are a much greater cause of concern for your skin than any preservative system available. Yet Boscia doesn't bother to explain that. Instead, they position their entire line as soothing for every skin cell, when that absolutely is not true.
Turning to the two ingredients Boscia highlights in their products, willow herb and jojoba leaf, both are viable options with value for skin. Willow herb, while not unique to Boscia (we've been using it in some of my products for years) is indeed a potent anti-irritant (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, October 1999, pages 39543962). As for jojoba leaf, there is no published research documenting its antioxidant ability. Like most plant leaves, it likely has some amount of antioxidant potency, but given the number of antioxidants that have been studied for use on skin, why would you hang your hopes on jojoba leaf, with no research behind it? Luckily, Boscia includes other antioxidants, too, and most of them have at least some research proving they are reliable additions.
There are some bright spots in this Japanese line. Each of the sunscreens provides sufficient UVA protection, and they offer a mineral-based version suitable for sensitive skin. They have a couple of good cleansers, and a few of the moisturizers are impressive and worth the splurge. It's also a plus that almost every Boscia product comes in packaging that keeps the contents protected from light and air: not a jar to be found! Given that only a small number of consumers need to avoid products with preservatives, we wish this line offered a more complete range of products to meet the needs of those consumers. As is, you'll have to think of Boscia as a nice pair of shoes with elegant accessories, and shop elsewhere to complete the ensemble.
For more information about Boscia, call (888) 635-8884 or visit www.bosciaskincare.com.
About the Experts
The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.
Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.