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philosophy

when hope is not enough night nightly restorative serum

1.00 fl. oz. for $ 50.00
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Expert Reviews

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Claims

Ingredients

Brand Overview

This serum from philosophy is said to rebuild skin's strong, protective barrier—an essential element of healthy-looking, smooth, radiant, and yes, younger-looking skin. As skin's barrier depletes or becomes damaged, so goes the appearance of skin, but does this serum deliver the goods? The answer is both yes and no! We'll explain…

When hope is not enough night nightly restorative serum contains mostly silky silicone fluids mixed with non-fragrant plant oils. All of these ingredients make dry skin feel wonderfully soft while making good on this product's claims to rebuild and protect skin's barrier.

The plant oils are not only a rich source of fatty acids to nourish skin, each also delivers antioxidants to the mix, and this serum's dark brown glass bottle packaging and dropper applicator helps keep them stable during use (just be sure to recap tightly) and silicones are also helpful at keeping delicate ingredients stable.

You're also getting an antioxidant kick from two forms of vitamin C and a handful of non-fragrant plant extracts. Skin-replenishing ceramides are on board, too.

With all of this good news, you're probably wondering why this serum didn't rate higher. In a word, fragrance, lots of it, including several fragrance ingredients like linalool and limonene. There's more of those here than we normally see in serums (many serums omit fragrance altogether which is best for everyone's skin). Daily use of highly fragrant products like this might make your nose happy, but it's not helping your skin or its barrier. See More Info for details.

What a shame! When hope is not enough night nightly restorative serum has so much good going for it, we're sad we can't rate it higher. But given the number of serums that can match this one's claims by only delivering beneficial ingredients and not a hint of problematic ones, there's not much reason to consider this one.

Pros:
  • Silky, enriching texture feels wonderful on dry skin.
  • Contains beneficial non-fragrant plant oils and fatty acids.
  • Very good source of antioxidants, including vitamin C.
  • Makes good on its barrier-improving claims.
Cons:
  • Contains several fragrance ingredients known to be sensitizing.
More Info:

Why Fragrance is a Problem for Skin: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes a chronic sensitizing reaction on skin.

This leads to all kinds of problems, including disruption of skin's healthy appearance, worsening dryness, redness, depletion of vital substances in skin's surface, and generally keeps skin from looking healthy, smooth, and hydrated. Fragrance free is always the best way to go for all skin types.

A surprising fact: Even though you can't always see the negative influence of using products that contain fragrance has on skin, the damage will still be taking place even if it's not evident on the surface. Research has demonstrated that you don't always need to see or feel the effects on your skin for your skin to be suffering. This negative impact and the visible damage may not become apparent for a long time.

References for this information:

Biochimica and Biophysica Acta, May 2012, pages 1,410-1,419

Aging, March 2012, pages 166-175

Chemical Immunology and Allergy, March 2012, pages 77-80

Experimental Dermatology, October 2009, pages 821-832

International Journal of Toxicology, Volume 27, 2008, Supplement pages 1-43

Food and Chemical Toxicology, February 2008, pages 446—475

American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2003, issue 11, pages 789-798

Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2008, issue 4, pages 191-202

Jar Packaging: No
Tested on animals: Yes
a strong protective skin barrier is essential to skins health and youthful appearance. our silky-smooth serum works in harmony with skins nightly regeneration process to help rebuild a stronger barrier and deliver smoother, more supple, replenished skin with more even and youthful-looking tone and texture.
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Dimethiconol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Bisabolol, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1, 2-Hexanediol, BHT, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Parfum/Fragrance, Oleic Acid, Tribehenin, PEG-8, Linum Usitatissimum Linseed) Seed Oil, Palmitic Acid, Tocopherol, Stearic Acid, Ceramide NG, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Butylene Glycol, Linolenic Acid, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lactic Acid, Linalool, Benzyl Benzoate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Citronellol, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hydroxycitronellal, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Farnesol, Aqua/Water/Eau, Phenoxyethanol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Rhizome/Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hexylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ilomastat, Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin

philosophy At-A-Glance

Strengths: Relatively inexpensive;some of the best products are fragrance-free; very good retinol products; selection of state-of-the-art moisturizers; innovative skin-lightening product.

Weaknesses: Irritating and/or drying cleansers; average to problematic scrubs; at-home peel kits far more gimmicky than helpful; several products contain lavender oil; several products include irritating essential oils;the majority of makeup items do not rise above average status.

Believe in miracles. That's the "lifestyle" branding statement philosophy makes, which is an approach that is decidedly different from their former positioning, which encompassed family values and spirituality along with a dash of department-store lan and endearingly clever quips. The miracle angle may grab your attention, but the company is also quick to point out that its history is steeped in providing products to dermatologists and plastic surgeons worldwide (so, in addition to miracles, philosophy has a serious side, too). Although its heritage may have included providing clinically oriented products to doctors,we have yet to see or hear of any medical professional retailing philosophy products. And that's a good thing because, by and large, most of philosophy products are resounding disappointments. Moreover, several products, including almost all of their sunscreens, contain one or more known skin irritants. We would be extremely suspicious of a dermatologist or plastic surgeon who recommended such products to their patients, and even more so if they actually believed some of the more farfetched claims philosophy makes.

Interestingly, when you shop this line at department stores or at the cosmetics boutique Sephora, what you'll notice is the preponderance of food- and drink-scented bath products, all in vivid colors or cutely boxed for gift-giving. It seems that somewhere along the way, the company decided to promote these nose-appeal products while downplaying their more serious-minded, simply packaged skin care. Perhaps the body lotions and bubble baths have become philosophy's bread and butter. Given the hit-or-miss nature of their facial-care products, that's not surprising. Then again, they've also heavily promoted their anti-aging-themed Miracle Worker products...

So what's to like if you're into the vibe philosophy puts out? Well, this is still a line with some well-formulated staples, including an AHA product, some retinol options, and a handful of state-of-the-art moisturizers. The products that get the most promotion at the counter are the ones you should avoid, such as the at-home peels, scrubs, pads, and anti-acne products. However, the somewhat confusing, conflicting image philosophy presents shouldn't keep you from considering their best productsbut it's not a lifestyle brand in the sense that using the entire line will somehow bring you a more joyful existence, or significantly improved skin. The philosophy line is now ownedCoty, a cosmetics brand primarily known for their fragrances.Their acquisition ofphilosophy is their first major foray into a widely-distributed skin care brand.

For more information about philosophy, call (800) 568-3151 or visit www.philosophy.com.

Note: philosophy opts to use lowercase letters for every product they sell, so the listings below are simply following suit.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.

Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.