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philosophy

when hope is not enough gel-oil mask

2.00 fl. oz. for $ 35.00
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Ingredients

Brand Overview

We had high hopes when we first checked out this uniquely-textured mask for normal to dry skin. Regrettably, hope wasn't enough to save when hope is not enough gel-oil mask from its low rating.

This innovative, leave-on mask is dispensed from an opaque tube, which is helpful due to the concentrated nature of its glycerin-based formula. It feels decadently rich but not greasy, and does a marvelous job making dry, dehydrated skin look and feel better—not to mention the packaging keeps the formula's light- and air-sensitive ingredients stable during use.

The low points come from the fact that this gel-oil mask contains more fragrance and preservative than anti-aging ingredients like ceramides and peptides. The sheer amount of fragrance (plus additional fragrant ingredients) puts skin at strong risk of being irritated. That's not our idea of beauty sleep! See More Info to learn why overly fragranced products are a problem for skin.

How disappointing, because this mask does a great job making skin look refreshed and radiant as claimed. See our list of Best Face Masks for options that indulge the needs of dry skin without adding fragrant irritants to the experience.

Pros:
  • Decadently rich yet non-greasy hydrating formula.
  • Leaves skin radiant and refreshed as claimed.
  • Opaque tube packaging keeps light- and air-sensitive ingredients stable during use.
Cons:
  • Contains more fragrance and preservative than anti-aging ceramides, peptides, and licorice root.
  • The amount of fragrance and numerous fragrance ingredients poses a risk of irritating skin.
More Info:

Why Fragrance is a Problem for Skin: Routine use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes a chronic sensitizing reaction on skin.

This leads to all kinds of problems, including disruption of skin's healthy appearance, worsening dryness, redness, depletion of vital substances in skin's surface, and generally keeps skin from looking healthy, smooth, and hydrated. Fragrance free is always the best way to go for all skin types.

A surprising fact: Even though you can't always see the negative influence of using products that contain fragrance has on skin, the damage will still be taking place even if it's not evident on the surface. Research has demonstrated that you don't always need to see or feel the effects on your skin for your skin to be suffering. This negative impact and the visible damage may not become apparent for a long time.

References for this information:

Biochimica and Biophysica Acta, May 2012, pages 1,410-1,419

Aging, March 2012, pages 166-175

Chemical Immunology and Allergy, March 2012, pages 77-80

Experimental Dermatology, October 2009, pages 821-832

International Journal of Toxicology, Volume 27, 2008, Supplement pages 1-43

Food and Chemical Toxicology, February 2008, pages 446—475

American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2003, issue 11, pages 7

Jar Packaging: No
Tested on animals: Yes
transform dry skin with deep, lasting moisture. our intensely hydrating gel-oil formula leaves depleted skin feeling nourished and comfortable, with a smoothed texture that appears naturally radiant and refreshed.
glycerin, aqua/water/eau, cyclopentasiloxane, propylene glycol, divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone, sodium polyacrylate, argania spinosa kernel oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, phenoxyethanol, linoleic acid, bisabolol, bifida ferment lysate, trideceth-6, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, C12-13 pareth-23, C12-13 pareth-3, parfum/fragrance, oleic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, tribehenin, ethylhexyl palmitate, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, maltodextrin, palmitic acid, cichorium intybus (chicory) root extract, adenosine, PEG-8, lecithin, laureth-3, stearic acid, ceramide NG, tocopherol, PEG-10 rapeseed sterol, pisum sativum (pea) extract, hydroxyethylcellulose, linolenic acid, linalool, benzyl benzoate, alcohol, magnolia officinalis bark extract, cynara scolymus (artichoke) leaf extract, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, lactic acid, sodium citrate, citronellol, benzyl salicylate, butylphenyl methylpropional, ascorbyl palmitate, silica dimethyl silylate, hydroxycitronellal, camellia sinensis leaf extract, coffea arabica (coffee) seed extract, pongamia pinnata seed extract, ethylhexylglycerin, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, sodium benzoate, angelica archangelica root extract, citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) peel extract, acetic acid, citric acid, magnesium aluminum silicate, xanthan gum, ascorbic acid, farnesol, glycyrrhiza uralensis (licorice) root extract, sclerotium gum, sodium hyaluronate, hexylene glycol, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract, sorbic acid, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) rhizome/root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, BHT.

philosophy At-A-Glance

Strengths: Relatively inexpensive;some of the best products are fragrance-free; very good retinol products; selection of state-of-the-art moisturizers; innovative skin-lightening product.

Weaknesses: Irritating and/or drying cleansers; average to problematic scrubs; at-home peel kits far more gimmicky than helpful; several products contain lavender oil; several products include irritating essential oils;the majority of makeup items do not rise above average status.

Believe in miracles. That's the "lifestyle" branding statement philosophy makes, which is an approach that is decidedly different from their former positioning, which encompassed family values and spirituality along with a dash of department-store lan and endearingly clever quips. The miracle angle may grab your attention, but the company is also quick to point out that its history is steeped in providing products to dermatologists and plastic surgeons worldwide (so, in addition to miracles, philosophy has a serious side, too). Although its heritage may have included providing clinically oriented products to doctors,we have yet to see or hear of any medical professional retailing philosophy products. And that's a good thing because, by and large, most of philosophy products are resounding disappointments. Moreover, several products, including almost all of their sunscreens, contain one or more known skin irritants. We would be extremely suspicious of a dermatologist or plastic surgeon who recommended such products to their patients, and even more so if they actually believed some of the more farfetched claims philosophy makes.

Interestingly, when you shop this line at department stores or at the cosmetics boutique Sephora, what you'll notice is the preponderance of food- and drink-scented bath products, all in vivid colors or cutely boxed for gift-giving. It seems that somewhere along the way, the company decided to promote these nose-appeal products while downplaying their more serious-minded, simply packaged skin care. Perhaps the body lotions and bubble baths have become philosophy's bread and butter. Given the hit-or-miss nature of their facial-care products, that's not surprising. Then again, they've also heavily promoted their anti-aging-themed Miracle Worker products...

So what's to like if you're into the vibe philosophy puts out? Well, this is still a line with some well-formulated staples, including an AHA product, some retinol options, and a handful of state-of-the-art moisturizers. The products that get the most promotion at the counter are the ones you should avoid, such as the at-home peels, scrubs, pads, and anti-acne products. However, the somewhat confusing, conflicting image philosophy presents shouldn't keep you from considering their best productsbut it's not a lifestyle brand in the sense that using the entire line will somehow bring you a more joyful existence, or significantly improved skin. The philosophy line is now ownedCoty, a cosmetics brand primarily known for their fragrances.Their acquisition ofphilosophy is their first major foray into a widely-distributed skin care brand.

For more information about philosophy, call (800) 568-3151 or visit www.philosophy.com.

Note: philosophy opts to use lowercase letters for every product they sell, so the listings below are simply following suit.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.

Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.

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