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philosophy

when hope is not enough facial replenishing balm

2.00 fl. oz. for $ 47.00
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When hope is not enough facial replenishing balm is a rich moisturizer for dry skin that presents a fairly even mix of good and bad qualities—the bad ones being such a shame because this contains an impressive mix of ingredients to replenish skin, leaving it feeling supple and protected.

The first issue is the jar packaging; this type of packaging works well with a balm texture, but it also routinely exposes the most beneficial ingredients (including antioxidants) to degrading light and air (see More Info for details).

The bigger concern is the inclusion of fragrance ingredients and potentially irritating plant extracts, as this unwelcome cocktail poses a strong risk of sensitizing skin. This balm-like moisturizer does smell good, but fragrance isn't skincare, as we explain in the More Info section.

Back to some positives: when hope is not enough facial replenishing balm instantly makes dry skin feel comfortably moisturized while its texture doesn't leave skin feeling slick or greasy. It's too rich for breakout-prone or combination skin (unless you keep it off the oily areas) but ultimately the combination of jar packaging and an over-fragranced formula make this replenishing moisturizer tough to recommend.

Pros:
  • Very good mix of replenishing emollients and fatty acids to help dry skin.
  • Contains several good antioxidants.
  • Helps prevent moisture loss and leaves skin feeling comfortably moisturized.
Cons:
  • Jar packaging won't keep the light- and air-sensitive ingredients stable once opened.
  • Contains some potentially irritating plant extracts.
  • Several fragrance ingredients pose a strong risk of irritation.
More Info:

Jar Packaging & Anti-Aging Moisturizers: This anti-aging formula is packaged in a jar, which means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable for long once it's opened. All plant extracts, almost all vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients are air-sensitive and begin to break down in the presence of air. Therefore, once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate, becoming less and less effective.

Jars are also unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, contaminating the product. This leads to further deterioration of the beneficial ingredients.

When shopping for an anti-aging moisturizer, the ingredients that provide the most benefit for addressing visible signs of aging among many other concerns need to be in airtight or air-restrictive packaging.

References for this information:

Pharmacology Review, July 2013, issue 14, pages 97-106

Dermatologic Therapy, May-June 2012, issue 3, pages 252-259.

Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, May 2011, issue 9, pages 4676-4683

Current Drug Delivery, November 2011, issue 6, pages 640-660

Journal of Biophotonics, January 2010, pages 82-88

Guidelines of Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products, Colipa-CTFA, March 2004, pages 1-10

Why Fragrance is a Problem for Skin: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes a chronic sensitizing reaction on skin.

This leads to all kinds of problems, including disruption of skin's healthy appearance, worsening dryness, redness, depletion of vital substances in skin's surface, and generally keeps skin from looking healthy, smooth, and hydrated. Fragrance free is always the best way to go for all skin types.

A surprising fact: Even though you can't always see the negative influence of using products that contain fragrance has on skin, the damage will still be taking place even if it's not evident on the surface. Research has demonstrated that you don't always need to see or feel the effects on your skin for your skin to be suffering. This negative impact and the visible damage may not become apparent for a long time.

References for this information:

Biochimica and Biophysica Acta, May 2012, pages 1,410-1,419

Aging, March 2012, pages 166-175

Chemical Immunology and Allergy, March 2012, pages 77-80

Experimental Dermatology, October 2009, pages 821-832

International Journal of Toxicology, Volume 27, 2008, Supplement pages 1-43

Food and Chemical Toxicology, February 2008, pages 446—475

American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2003, issue 11, pages 7

Jar Packaging: Yes
Tested on animals: Yes
specially formulated for normal to dry skin, our deeply replenishing, non-greasy balm restores dry, delicate skin, improving skins density and natural radiance. experience soft, supple, replenished skin instantly, and look forward to smoother, more buoyant, youthful-looking skin.
aqua/water/eau, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil, glycerin, butylene glycol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, cetearyl alcohol, hydrolyzed jojoba esters, myristyl myristate, isostearyl isostearate, argania spinosa kernel oil, vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract, sodium hyaluronate, magnolia officinalis bark extract, citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) peel extract, angelica archangelica root extract, pongamia pinnata seed extract, coffea arabica (coffee) seed extract, camellia sinensis leaf extract, ascorbyl palmitate, bisabolol, jojoba esters, bifida ferment lysate, tocopheryl acetate, linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed oil, cichorium intybus (chicory) root extract, tocopherol, pisum sativum (pea) extract, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, cynara scolymus (artichoke) leaf extract, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, borago officinalis seed oil, glycyrrhiza uralensis (licorice) root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) rhizome/root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, oleic acid, HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, cetyl stearate, stearic acid, cetearyl glucoside, potassium cetyl phosphate, xanthan gum, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, chlorphenesin, carbomer, parfum/fragrance, ethylhexyl palmitate, disodium EDTA, maltodextrin, palmitic acid, lecithin, citric acid, PEG-8, silica, laureth-3, hydroxyethylcellulose, linalool, benzyl benzoate, alcohol, sodium citrate, citronellol, benzyl salicylate, butylphenyl methylpropional, silica dimethyl silylate, ethylhexylglycerin, hydroxycitronellal, sodium benzoate, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, acetic acid, caprylyl glycol, magnesium aluminum silicate, lactic acid, ascorbic acid, farnesol, sclerotium gum, hexylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid, BHT.

philosophy At-A-Glance

Strengths: Relatively inexpensive;some of the best products are fragrance-free; very good retinol products; selection of state-of-the-art moisturizers; innovative skin-lightening product.

Weaknesses: Irritating and/or drying cleansers; average to problematic scrubs; at-home peel kits far more gimmicky than helpful; several products contain lavender oil; several products include irritating essential oils;the majority of makeup items do not rise above average status.

Believe in miracles. That's the "lifestyle" branding statement philosophy makes, which is an approach that is decidedly different from their former positioning, which encompassed family values and spirituality along with a dash of department-store lan and endearingly clever quips. The miracle angle may grab your attention, but the company is also quick to point out that its history is steeped in providing products to dermatologists and plastic surgeons worldwide (so, in addition to miracles, philosophy has a serious side, too). Although its heritage may have included providing clinically oriented products to doctors,we have yet to see or hear of any medical professional retailing philosophy products. And that's a good thing because, by and large, most of philosophy products are resounding disappointments. Moreover, several products, including almost all of their sunscreens, contain one or more known skin irritants. We would be extremely suspicious of a dermatologist or plastic surgeon who recommended such products to their patients, and even more so if they actually believed some of the more farfetched claims philosophy makes.

Interestingly, when you shop this line at department stores or at the cosmetics boutique Sephora, what you'll notice is the preponderance of food- and drink-scented bath products, all in vivid colors or cutely boxed for gift-giving. It seems that somewhere along the way, the company decided to promote these nose-appeal products while downplaying their more serious-minded, simply packaged skin care. Perhaps the body lotions and bubble baths have become philosophy's bread and butter. Given the hit-or-miss nature of their facial-care products, that's not surprising. Then again, they've also heavily promoted their anti-aging-themed Miracle Worker products...

So what's to like if you're into the vibe philosophy puts out? Well, this is still a line with some well-formulated staples, including an AHA product, some retinol options, and a handful of state-of-the-art moisturizers. The products that get the most promotion at the counter are the ones you should avoid, such as the at-home peels, scrubs, pads, and anti-acne products. However, the somewhat confusing, conflicting image philosophy presents shouldn't keep you from considering their best productsbut it's not a lifestyle brand in the sense that using the entire line will somehow bring you a more joyful existence, or significantly improved skin. The philosophy line is now ownedCoty, a cosmetics brand primarily known for their fragrances.Their acquisition ofphilosophy is their first major foray into a widely-distributed skin care brand.

For more information about philosophy, call (800) 568-3151 or visit www.philosophy.com.

Note: philosophy opts to use lowercase letters for every product they sell, so the listings below are simply following suit.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.

Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.

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