Vital Light Serum
Vital Light Serum is Clarins’ attempt to compete with the latest skin lightening and brightening products from Clinique, Lancome, Olay, and Estee Lauder. In almost all respects, their contribution pales by comparison and isn’t worth its price tag.
The strongly fragranced formula contains mostly water, slip agents, film-forming agent, and preservative. It also contains the novel skin lightening ingredient hexylresorcinol (discussed in detail below) which Clarins maintains is four times as effective as 2% hydroquinone, the reigning gold standard skin lightening ingredient in over-the-counter and prescription products. There is no published, substantiated research to support that claim, but the resorcinol portion of this ingredient is capable of causing dryness and irritation. Not surprisingly, Clarins offers no research to support their claim for hexylresorcinol.
Ironically, hexylresorcinol is a synthetic ingredient. Clarins makes a big deal about how many natural ingredients they use, yet this so-called breakthrough product is built around a synthetic. That’s not bad; it just makes Clarins natural positioning all the more misleading.
Hexylresorcinol is a preservative and antiseptic with a pale yellow color and somewhat heavy texture. It has a strong odor, which is likely why Clarins added fragrance and fragrant plant extracts to this skin lightener. High amounts of this ingredient can burn skin, but that’s true of many ingredients when used in high amounts. In this product, Clarins is likely using around 1%, so the risk of burning is practically zero. This ingredient is believed to have efficacy similar to hydroquinone because, like hydroquinone, it plays a role in melanin (skin pigment) production. In contrast, though, hydroquinone (and other alternatives, such as vitamin C) have mounds of research and a historp
One of the plant ingredients in this serum is atractylodes lancea root. There is one in vitro study showing this plant inhibits melanin production, but it wasn’t compared to skin known skin lightening actives, so it’s a mystery as to how well this plant works compared to other lightening ingredients (Source: Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, April 2007, pages 719–723). Another plant ingredient, cochlearia officinalis, is a natural source of fragrance ingredients and mustard oil, a known irritant (www.naturaldatabase.com). This would be a much better option had Clarins chosen plants that are proven effective without exposing skin to volatile fragrance chemicals whose irritation can lead to collagen breakdown./p>
For certain, this product is nearly do-nothing for wrinkles and it absolutely cannot lift skin. Many skin-care products claim they can firm and lift skin, but none of them work, at least not to the extent claimed. A face-lift-in-a-bottle isn’t possible, but with the right mix of products, you will see firmer skin that has a more lifted appearance—and that’s exciting! In order to gain these youthful benefits, you must protect skin from any and all sun damage every day, use an AHA (glycolic acid or lactic acid) or BHA (salicylic acid) exfoliant, and use products that have a wide range of antioxidants and skin-repairing ingredients. This combination of products (remember, one product doesn’t do it all) has extensive research showing how they can significantly improve many of the signs of aging such as firming skin, reducing wrinkles and brown spots, and eliminating dullness. You’ll find them on our list of Best Anti-Aging/Anti-Wrinkle Products.
This serum helps to correct the appearance of dark spots. It also visibly lifts and firms skin while restoring the deep luminosity of a young-looking complexion. Vital Light Serum features the unprecedented ingredient Hexylresorcinol. The latest scientifically proven dark spot reducer, this active ingredient addresses dark spots at the source: the pigmentation process. It is four-times more effective than a two-percent concentration of hydroquinone, an anti-dark spot ingredient used in the pharmaceutical industry. This serum also includes a tripeptide and exclusive plant extracts.
Strengths: Broad selection of effective, broad-spectrum sunscreens; some good self-tanning products; some good cleansers and gentle topical scrubs; a great foundation primer;superb foundations and powders; very good powder blush; wonderfully creamy lipsticks; great lip glosses and mascaras.
Weaknesses: Overpriced; pervasive reliance on jar packaging; most products have more fragrance than beneficial plant extracts; poor toners; an overabundance of average moisturizers; no effective products for fading discolorations or treating acne; no AHA or BHA products; disappointing eye pencils; average eyeshadows and makeup brushes.
Clarins is a distinctively French line whose beginnings go back to 1954. It was then that founder Jacques Courtin-Clarins began formulating plant-based treatments for his clients. He parlayed this into a Beauty Institute, and from there, with an all-natural mantra that was slightly ahead of its time, the business grew. Never wavering from its original marketing angle, Clarins has steadfastly held on to the belief that whatever grows from the ground and smells nice must be the cure for every skin ailment, from breakouts to loss of firmness to the dreaded "sponginess" of cellulite. A visit to today's white- and red-trimmed Clarins counter confirms that the plant-based, natural-extract rhetoric is still intact, and the counter staff is eager to discuss it (yet ask them what some of the non-plant, unnatural ingredients are doing in their products and you may be met with a blank stare).
You'll also find that Clarins routinely offers facial appointments at their counters, yet more often than not these appointments, which are done behind a privacy screen, are about selling products, not about performing a legitimate facial. (For example, cleansing, toning, and facial massage are included, while extractions are not.) One other point of difference you may hear about is the Clarins Anti-Pollution Complex. First added to their products in 1991, this Complex consists of a group of plant extracts though what they may be is a mystery, since all manner of plant extracts show up in these products, with few repeats. This "high-performing" protection is supposed to shield skin from pollutant gases, corrosive particles, and industrial emissions. Although that sounds good, it's not true and there isn't a shred of proof to the contrary (Clarins research is unpublished). Plant extracts, alone or in combination regardless of the remote locations they may come from cannot keep pollution off the skin. If anything, the amount of fragrance in these products can weaken the skin's defense mechanisms, resulting in more damage from the pollution our skin encounters daily.
This line is enormous, and is absolutely one of the most cumbersome around. Within it, the assortment of plant extracts ranges from the usual to the exotic and ultimately to the no-one-knows-what-in-the-heck-these-are! Clarins has something for every skin concern imaginable, from keeping pollution off the face (not possible) to lifting a sagging jaw line (not possible without surgery), and even protecting skin from electromagnetic waves. It would seem there is nothing these supposedly miraculous products can't do! And you'll find a horde of plants here with the promise that this can really all come true.
However, once you're armed with even a modicum of ingredient knowledge and a fair helping of myth-busting, you'll realize how ridiculously out of whack all of this hype is. That's not to imply that all of these products are bad, there are good ones; or that all of the plant extracts aren't good, because many are very good anti-irritants, antioxidants, emollients, or antibacterial agents. However, many plant extracts are also potential allergens or skin irritants. Clarins also has its fair share of ordinary, standard, and completely unnecessary products whose claims are at best misleading and at worst downright false, and overall the products are incredibly overpriced for what you get. What is most startling is the redundancy among the Clarins products. There are few differences, for example, between the moisturizers and the mask cleansers, and the oil-control products are more reruns than they are new alternatives for skin care.
Note: All Clarins products contain fragrance.
For more information about Clarins, call (866) 252-7467 or visit www.clarins.com.
Clarins showcases its prodigious skin-care products so prominently that you may not have noticed that their excellent makeup collection has become even more impressive. Evaluating Clarins makeup is 180 degrees different from evaluating the lackluster and confusing assortment of skin-care products they sell. When it comes to foundations, powders, and lipsticks, texture is critically important. Luckily, this is where Clarins color line excels, despite premium prices and going a bit overboard with fragrance. Their foundations are marvelous, the lone concealer is much better than their former attempts in this area, and every powder-based product feels incomparably silky while looking stunningly smooth on skin. (Keep in mind, however, that even the best makeup looks only as good as the skin on which it is applied.) Giving Lancome and Dior a run for their money, Clarins' mascaras are surprisingly good, and at least their lipsticks feel as rich as you'll need to be to afford repeat purchases. You don't need to spend this much money to get beautiful results and stellar products, but if your budget allows you to fill your makeup bag with department-store products, Clarins' nicely organized makeup display should be one of your first stops.
Clarins likes to promote that many of their foundations contain a special anti-pollution complex to safeguard your skin. Don't believe it for a second, because there is no way to completely shield skin from the effects of pollution and antioxidants. Besides, the kinds of ingredients that can reduce, not block or eliminate, pollution-based free-radical formation are rarely included in Clarins makeup.
About the Experts
The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.
Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.