Ole Henriksen Transform Plus Goodnight Glow Retin-ALT Sleeping Creme
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Ole Henriksen

Transform Plus Goodnight Glow Retin-ALT Sleeping Crème

1.70 fl. oz. for $ 55.00
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Brand Overview

Ole Henriksen’s Transform Plus Goodnight Glow Retin-ALT Sleeping Crème improves on the brand’s Retin-ALT Serum, but shares some of that product’s drawbacks while adding one of its own. That’s why it earned the same rating as the Retin-ALT Serum even though the Sleeping Crème has a better formula.

The “Retin-ALT” part of the name refers to ingredient bakuchiol, a plant-derived antioxidant that research has shown delivers many of the same benefits as retinol. It’s not equivalent to retinol, but referring to it as an alternative is fair, much the same way spinach is an alternative to broccoli, and both are nutritious.

As with all plant extracts, bakuchiol is vulnerable to breaking down when exposed to light and air. Unfortunately, that’s what happens every time you open this jar-packaged moisturizer. See More Info to learn why this packaging choice isn’t optimal for such formulas.

Another thing that isn’t optimal is that this moisturizer contains more fragrance than its “Retin-ALT” ingredient, bakuchiol. Fragrance isn’t skin care, and this product’s orange creamsicle scent tends to linger. What’s more, this contains several fragrant ingredients along with added fragrance, which is a bad deal for your skin; see More Info for details.

Turning to the positives, the amount of AHAs (lactic and glycolic acids) and this product’s pH of 3.8 allow them to exfoliate. We also like the inclusion of beneficial emollients such as shea butter, grape seed oil, and skin-soothing panthenol.

Those are the high points, but regrettably they’re not enough to make this night cream worth considering over other retinol moisturizers or products with bakuchiol.

Pros:
  • The amount of AHAs and formula’s pH is likely to exfoliate.
  • Lovely smooth, non-greasy cream texture.
  • Grape seed oil and shea butter are proven emollients.
Cons:
  • Jar packaging hinders the efficacy of the plant oils and extracts.
  • Contains more fragrance than star ingredient bakuchiol.
  • Mixture of several known sources of fragrance likely to irritate skin.

More Info:

Jar Packaging & Anti-Aging Moisturizers: Beneficial anti-aging ingredients, which include all plant extracts, almost all vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients, are unstable, which means they begin to break down in the presence of air. Once a jar is opened and lets air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate, becoming less and less effective. Routine exposure to daylight also is problematic for these ingredients.

Jar packaging is also unsanitary because you dip your fingers into the jar with each use, contaminating the product. This stresses the preservative system, leading to further deterioration of the beneficial ingredients.

Remember: The ingredients that provide the most benefit in addressing visible signs of aging must be in airtight or air-restrictive packaging to remain effective throughout usage. Buying products in this type of packaging means that the ingredients have the best chance of remaining effective—to the benefit of your skin!

References for this information:
Pharmacology Review, July 2013, pages 97–106
Dermatologic Therapy, May-June 2012, pages 252–259
Current Drug Delivery, November 2011, pages 640–660
Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, May 2011, pages 4676–4683
Journal of Biophotonics, January 2010, pages 82–88
Guidelines of Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products, Colipa-CTFA, March 2004, pages 1–10

Why Fragrance Is a Problem for Skin: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes a chronic sensitizing reaction on skin.

This reaction in turn leads to all kinds of problems, including disrupting skin’s barrier, worsening dryness, increasing or triggering redness, depleting vital substances in skin’s surface, and generally preventing skin from looking healthy, smooth, and hydrated. Fragrance free is always the best way to go for all skin types.

A surprising fact: Even though you can’t always see or feel the negative effects of fragrant ingredients on skin, the damage will still be taking place, even if it’s not evident on the surface. Research has demonstrated that you don’t need to see or feel the effects of irritation for your skin to be suffering. Much like the effects from cumulative sun damage, the negative impact and the visible damage from fragrance may not become apparent for a long time.

References for this information:
Biochimica and Biophysica Acta, May 2012, pages 1410–1419
Aging, March 2012, pages 166–175
Chemical Immunology and Allergy, March 2012, pages 77–80
Experimental Dermatology, October 2009, pages 821–832
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2008, pages 191–202
International Journal of Toxicology, Volume 27, 2008, Supplement, pages 1–43
Food and Chemical Toxicology, February 2008, pages 446–475
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2003, pages 789–798

Jar Packaging: Yes
Tested on animals: No

At night, your skin goes into repair mode. This rich sleeping crème makes the most of that time, exfoliating the skin’s surface to allow fresher skin to glow through. Formulated with a powerful concentration of AHAs and bakuchiol—a plant-based alternative to retinol—it fights all major signs of aging for an overnight skin transformation. It targets fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots, and firms.

Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Potassium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Polysorbate 60, Panthenol, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Parfum/Fragrance, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Bakuchiol, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Isohexadecane, Linoleic Acid, PEG-75 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Polysorbate 80, Steareth-20, Ceteth-20, Linolenic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Sorbitan Oleate, Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Phytate, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Violet 2 (Ci 60730), Red 4 (Ci 14700), Limonene, Linalool, Citral.

Ole Henriksen At-A-Glance

Strengths: The Protect the Truth SPF 50+ Sunscreen is good.

Weaknesses: Expensive; not all-natural as claimed; jar packaging for antioxidant-rich products is pervasive; terribly irritating toners; several average serums and moisturizers, including eye creams; lip balm that contains irritating ingredients.

"Facialist to the stars," L.A.'s "number one face man," and "one of Hollywood's hottest facialists" are but a few of the accolades Denmark-born Ole Henriksen has garnered since he first made a name for himself in Los Angeles back in 1974. Henriksen's skin-care philosophy was, and still is, a mix of holistic teachings, common sense, and, as seen in countless other cosmetic lines (though Henriksen was somewhat of a trailblazer when he started), an affinity for Mother Nature and all she has to offer the skin.

We agree with Henriksen's philosophy that feeling good from the inside can manifest itself on the outside, and we applaud the fact that he admonishes his clients for being too hard on themselves when it comes to their complexions. That bromide loses some of its believability, however, when you realize that Henriksen's products are all about fixing the outside of you, especially the parts with wrinkles, puffy eyes, skin discolorations, and on and on.

For example, all the self-confidence in the world won't change the need for sunscreen or change your genetic propensity for certain skin conditions. Clearly, Henriksen believes that, too, because his skin-care products are meant to help his devotees put their best faces forward. He maintains that his products are different because they are "pure," "natural," and "high performance" productsnow really, how often have we heard that? Way too many times, and as is often the case, the products aren't pure or all natural in the least. It turns out that Henriksen's products aren't anywhere close to being all natural. Every product is rife with plenty of unnatural ingredients, most of which are used industry-wide. (That doesn't make them bad, but marketing hype and distortion should not be the basis for making decisions about what skin-care products you use.) In essence, the only unique aspect of this line is Henriksen's ability to charm his clients into thinking that his products are in some way unique and worth the money, when they absolutely are not. A quick review of the ingredient label reveals far more problems than is acceptable for anyone's skin.

Stepping away from the marketing aspect, this product line has way too many missteps to make it interesting or beneficial. While it does contain helpful plant extracts and oils, it is certainly not the only line that includes those ingredients. Sadly, the potency, and yes, even the purity, of many of the good plant extracts are compromised due to his tendency to use jar packaging rather than more stable, airtight options (all plant extracts deteriorate when exposed to air or light). And the amount of irritating plant extracts makes some of his products just hurtful for skin.

Perhaps the saddest part is that a so-called skin-care expert can't even get sun protection right. You place all that trust in someone's expertise and they don't even have the basics down! Henriksen's Herbal Day Creme SPF 15 lacks titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone, Mexoryl, or Tinosorb. All the ballyhooed "calming extracts" and "pure botanicals" in the world cannot stave off one wrinkle if your sunscreen lacks sufficient UVA protection. A few of the sunscreens that do provide adequate UVA protection contain skin celldamaging lavender oil. Sigh. It's not fun when you consistently run into examples in line after line that prove that natural ingredients are not inherently better for skin! Given how many consumers want to use such products, we'd love to offer them some slam-dunk options.

This aesthetician-created line has a few reasonably decent options to consider, but overall the line is not on par with many others. The overwhelming emphasis on "natural skincare" (which, we repeat, this line definitely is not) might sound like it will be good for you, but that is not what you will find here. A company's apparent blindness to the published evidence that many of the natural extracts as well as many of the synthetic ingredients they include are potent skin irritants means you don't want to shop this line through rose-colored glasses.

For more information about Ole Henriksen, call (800) 327-0331 or visit www.olehenriksen.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.

Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.

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