The Dewy Skin Cream
We have to hand it to Tatcha: The Dewy Skin Cream has a unique texture that’s likely to be a dream come true for anyone with dry to very skin that doesn’t find even rich creams moisturizing enough. A couple of important setbacks keep this from earning a higher rating, but it might be worth considering if you don’t have sensitive skin and have found nothing else helps your dry skin feel better.
This moisturizer has a thick, balm-like texture that Tatcha (unfortunately) decided to package in a jar. Although such packaging seems a logical choice for this texture, it does a disservice to the light- and air-sensitive ingredients the formula contains. This includes the rice/green tea ferment, squalane, and several plant extracts, many of which are uncommon (kudos to Tatcha for uncovering some new ones) but still great antioxidants. See More Info for details.
The other issue is the inclusion of fragrant ingredients and gold, which may make this feel worthy of its price tag, but in reality can trigger allergic contact dermatitis.
What a shame, as despite this moisturizer being so thick, it spreads well and leaves a protective layer of rich hydration that keeps skin soft and smooth. The blend of glycerin, propanediol, dimethicone, and squalane really excels at preventing water loss without making skin feel occluded, greasy, or slick.
As for the instant glow, that comes from the blend of mineral pigments this contains, such as mica, tin oxide, and titanium dioxide. It’s a subtle, skin-enlivening glow that noticeably perks up depleted-looking skin.
We wish we could give more love to this product, as it’s not very often something like this comes around; however, we can’t ignore what extensive research has shown to be true about the problems jar packaging and fragrance presents (we’d almost be willing to overlook the info on gold being a skin sensitizer, as there are fewer studies on this ingredient).
- Thick, balm-like texture spreads well and feels protective.
- Works beautifully to smooth and moisturize dry to very dry skin.
- Interesting, distinctive, and beneficial blend of plant extracts and ferments.
- Mineral pigments add a subtle, enlivening glow.
- Jar packaging hinders the effectiveness of the natural ingredients.
- Contains fragrant ingredients and gold, which can both irritate skin.
Jar Packaging & Antioxidants: Beneficial anti-aging ingredients, which include all plant extracts, almost all vitamins, antioxidants, and more, are unstable, which means they begin to break down in the presence of air. Once a jar is opened and lets air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate, becoming less and less effective. Routine exposure to daylight also is problematic for these ingredients.
Jar packaging is also unsanitary because you dip your fingers into the jar with each use, contaminating the product. This stresses the preservative system, leading to further deterioration of the beneficial ingredients.
Remember: The ingredients that provide the most benefit in addressing visible signs of aging must be in airtight or air-restrictive packaging to remain effective throughout usage. Buying products in this type of packaging means that the ingredients have the best chance of remaining effective—to the benefit of your skin!
References for this information:
Pharmacology Review, July 2013, pages 97–106
Dermatologic Therapy, May-June 2012, pages 252–259
Current Drug Delivery, November 2011, pages 640–660
Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, May 2011, pages 4676–4683
Journal of Biophotonics, January 2010, pages 82–88
Guidelines of Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products, Colipa-CTFA, March 2004, pages 1–10
A rich cream that feeds skin with plumping hydration and antioxidant-packed Japanese purple rice for a dewy, healthy glow. Ideal for dry skin, but can be used on normal skin for those who prefer a richer texture.
The allure of ancient beauty treatments coupled with modern science is tempting for many peopleand the Japan-inspired brand Tatcha plays that combination up to the max. As the story goes, Harvard graduate and businesswoman Victoria Tsai, had a chance encounter with a modern-day geisha on a trip to Kyoto, Japan. What followed was an introduction to a fabled book on the beauty secrets of the geisha, which led to Tsais desire to translate these secrets and tips into a modern-day skincare line.
The hallmark ingredients Tsai and her team seem most interested in are of Japan-inspired such as green tea, red algae, and rice bran which are supposedly mentioned often in the ancient geisha beauty book. Although all three of these ingredients have merit for skin, research hasnt shown them to purify or do some of the other things for skin that Tatcha claims. What you really need to know is none of these are the solution for any skin concern or for any skin type.
One more point, the entire premise of Tatcha is built around Japanese geishas beauty routines, but this assumes that under all of their decorative makeup, geishas have (or had) beautiful, flawless skin. In all likelihood, some do and some dont, but its quite likely that when unadorned and viewed close up, these women have the same types of skin issues as women the world oversave for perhaps fewer signs of sun damage, as most east Asian cultures are careful about avoiding sun exposure.
Enough about the marketing story because what really matters is the quality of the products and whether or not they are beneficial for skin. The short answer is this line has more problematic formulations than beneficial ones.
Chief among the concerns that keep us from getting behind this line are an abundance of fragrance (natural or not, fragrance can irritate skin) and several products housed in jars that expose their delicate ingredients to light and air.
Admittedly, its easy to get swept up in what the ancients knew and kept to themselves for centuries, only to have these seemingly amazing secrets finally divulged. We wish that were a wise way to find the best products for your skin, but despite Tatchas promises, your skin will be left wanting more.
For more information about Tatcha visit www.tatcha.com.
About the Experts