Stubborn Marks PM Treatment
Neutrogena’s Stubborn Marks PM Treatment comes across as a powerhouse treatment to tackle stubborn acne marks. Although it has value, it’s not quite the blockbuster it’s described as being.
The brand gets the packaging for this right: it comes in an opaque bottle with a pump dispenser, which protects its beneficial ingredients from breaking down in light and air. This has a lotion texture that’s hydrating, yet not heavy, making it a workable option for all skin types. Unlike some of Neutrogena’s other skin care offerings, this treatment is fragrance free.
This contains retinol, an ingredient that has more than four decades of research providing its effectiveness on a variety of skin care concerns, including uneven skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles, and acne marks. Neutrogena doesn’t indicate how much retinol is included, though from its placement in the ingredient list, we speculate it’s a low, but still effective, amount, as research shows that even smaller amounts can still have a positive impact on skin.
We must point out, however, that contrary to the brand’s claims, this cannot exfoliate skin. While retinol encourages collagen production and helps normalize how new skin cells are formed and move through skin to the surface, it does not help skin shed surface cells in the same way that an AHA or BHA exfoliant can. If you see flaking skin from retinol use, that isn’t exfoliation (which should occur invisibly, so you just see the results of it rather than the process itself), it’s a sign of irritation.
Outside of the retinol, this also contains some vitamin C (ascorbic acid), though not in an amount that’s likely to have much of an impact on acne marks (more potent vitamin C formulas can do this). There’s also a dash of skin-plumping sodium hyaluronate. All of these make for a good skin care product, but Neutrogena’s website makes it seem as though this is comparable to prescription retinol treatments for acne, and it isn’t even close.
One final note: though this is labeled as a PM treatment, there’s no reason you can’t use this as part of a daytime skin care routine as well. Retinol products can be used any time, day or night, provided that daytime use is followed by application of a sunscreen rated SPF 30 or greater.
- Lightweight-yet-hydrating lotion is workable for all skin types.
- Includes antioxidant vitamin C and skin-plumping sodium hyaluronate.
- Packaged to protect its light- and air-sensitive ingredients.
- Fragrance free.
- Cannot exfoliate skin as claimed.
- Isn’t on par with prescription retinoid treatments for post-acne marks.
Visibly reducing acne marks while you sleep? It's not a dream. It's Neutrogena Stubborn Marks PM Treatment. Powered by Retinol SA, this derm-proven treatment exfoliates skin and speeds up cell turnover while you sleep. The result? Less visible acne marks and more even skin tone in just 1 week!
Strengths: Inexpensive; several recommended cleansers; retinol options, in stable packaging; vast selection of sunscreens, most of which offer excellent UVA protection; several fragrance-free options; many of the Healthy Skin products are state-of-the-art; the foundations with sunscreen provide sufficient UVA protection; some praiseworthy makeup items.
Weaknesses: An overabundance of overlapping anti-aging products that is perennially confusing for consumers; irritating bar soaps; lackluster to downright bad toners; a handful of bland moisturizers and eye creams; some sunscreens too much alcohol or problematic preservatives; most of the Deep Clean products are terrible; mostly disappointing concealers; the lip balms with sunscreen provide inadequate UVA protection.
Johnson & Johnsonowned Neutrogena has been around for over 50 years, and they've come a long way since they launched their first transparent, bronze, detergent-based bar soap (it also contains tallow). The bars are still sold, and while we still don't recommend them (they are too drying for all skin types), the good news is that Neutrogena has come a very long way from where they started. In fact, several of their products represent truly state-of-the-art options.
Strolling the skin-care aisles of any drugstore or mass-market store reveals that Neutrogena vies for shelf space and prominence with only one other brand, Procter & Gamble's Olay. For the most part, both companies offer a similar assortment of products, with Olay being slightly more focused on anti-aging products and Neutrogena going for broader appeal, offering a nearly equal amount of antiwrinkle and anti-acne products. Regrettably the latter category presents few viable options.
Where Neutrogena really excels (and has for years) is with water-soluble cleansers, AHAs, retinol, and sunscreen products. Their Healthy Skin lineup offers some beautifully formulated moisturizers with glycolic acid, and the sunscreens offer something for everyone, including some ingenious options for those with oily skin (or anyone who finds the texture of high-SPF products as unappealing as slathering your skin with Crisco).
A recent self-proclaimed advance in sun protection came with Neutrogena's Helioplex complex. It is not the superior breakthrough Neutrogena makes it out to be. It's a good system to keep avobenzone stable for longer, but Helioplex isn't the only way to get the most out of this important UVA sunscreen. If it were, why didn't Neutrogena scrap all of their other sunscreens that don't use Helioplex technology? And why do they still offer a handful of SPF-rated products that leave skin vulnerable to UVA damage? Although they offer a proportionately greater number of sunscreens that provide excellent UVA protection, it's hard to unequivocally deem them a sun-care leader when they still sell inadequate sunscreens.
It's common to see commercials and magazine ads for Neutrogena's plethora of products designed to combat breakouts and blackheads. It's nothing short of amazing that, after all these years, the majority of these products, while well intentioned, still don't get it right. Far too many of them contain irritating ingredients such as alcohol, witch hazel, and menthol, none of which are the least bit helpful for someone struggling with breakouts. If your dermatologist recommends these products for acne without reservation, definitely consider a second opinion! Even Neutrogena's on-the-spot benzoyl peroxide product contains some potentially problematic thickening agents. Despite this, if you choose carefully, there are some great products (including a BHA lotion) that can make a positive difference.
What's most frustrating and, frankly, surprising, is that Neutrogena's enormous assortment of products represents both the best and the worst the cosmetics industry has to offer. Given their worldwide distribution and research capabilities, they really should be offering a consistent range of effective, irritant-free products to address a variety of skin types and conditions. As things stand now, healthy, protected skin is only assured if you know which Neutrogena products to look for and which ones to never put in your shopping cart.
For more information about Neutrogena, owned by Johnson & Johnson, call (800) 582-4048 or visit www.neutrogena.com.
Neutrogena's "beautiful and beneficial" pronouncement is a great tag line, but most of their makeup doesn't live up to that assertion. This line was lacking in several key areas when it first hit store shelves in 1999, and although some things have improved, the number of problematic products is a bit startling. (We are not aware of any cosmetic line that uses menthol or its derivatives as often as Neutrogena.) Each product carries on about the vitamins it contains, yet compared to the leading roles played by cosmetic staples like silicones and thickening agents, the vitamins have mere cameo roles, and as such have little to no impact.
There are a few key items to seek out, especially if you're looking for makeup with excellent sun protection. We also found their lip gloss to be one of the best at any price, and a few of their foundations successfully bridge the gap between skin care and makeup.
The most frustrating aspect of this line is that almost all of it is packaged so you cannot see the color. Even worse, the color swatch on the box is a poor representation, not only of how the color looks in the compact, but also how it looks on your skin. What would truly be beneficial is for Neutrogena to offer more revealing packaging or provide testers or offer trial sizes. Their overall collection and in-store displays aren't nearly as tempting as most other drugstore makeup lines, so in most cases they're relying on their constant magazine and television ads to drive shoppers to explore the world of Neutrogena makeup, or they're relying solely on those who don't mind guessing what color they are really buying. It's obviously working, because despite the problematic elements, this is a line that has survived and is very well distributed.
About the Experts
The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.
Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.