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Biossance

Squalane + Rose Vegan Lip Balm

0.35 fl. oz. for $ 18.00
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Brand Overview

Biossance’s Squalane + Rose Vegan Lip Balm has a lot going for it, but a couple of key issues (fragrance and jar packaging) hold the formula back.

Starting with the positives, Squalane + Rose Vegan Lip Balm has Vaseline-esque texture, only with richer emollience and a super-smooth glide that makes it feel more luxe. The clear balm coats lips with glossy shine and creates a protective barrier that prevents moisture loss.

Among the ingredients you’ll find squalane, sodium hyaluronate (a form of hyaluronic acid), ceramide NP and several emollients—all of which help replenish and soften the delicate skin on lips. Unfortunately, the jar packaging compromises the stability of some those superstar ingredients (see More Info), so they’re not going to be as effective as they should be.

We also have to point out that this balm contains potentially sensitizing fragrance ingredients, including the namesake rose extract. While the scent isn’t overpowering, fragrance free is the safer way to go for the health of your lips.

That aside, Squalane + Rose Vegan Lip Balm is a beeswax-free formula for those who prefer a vegan lip balm.

Pros:
  • Coats lips with alluring shine and a protective barrier to prevent moisture loss.
  • Softens, smooths and replenishes delicate lip skin with beneficial blend of ingredients.
  • Beeswax-free formula for those wanting a vegan lip balm.
Cons:
  • Contains potentially irritating fragrance.
  • Jar packaging compromises some of the superstar ingredients.

More Info:

Jar Packaging and Beneficial Ingredients: Beneficial anti-aging ingredients, which include all plant extracts, almost all vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients, are unstable, which means they begin to break down in the presence of air. Once a jar is opened and lets air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate, becoming less and less effective. Routine exposure to daylight also is problematic for these ingredients.

Jar packaging is also unsanitary because you dip your fingers into the jar with each use, contaminating the product. This stresses the preservative system, leading to further deterioration of the beneficial ingredients.

Remember: The ingredients that provide the most benefit in addressing visible signs of aging must be in airtight or air-restrictive packaging to remain effective throughout usage. Buying products in this type of packaging means that the ingredients have the best chance of remaining effective—to the benefit of your skin!

References for this information:
Pharmacology Review, July 2013, pages 97–106
Dermatologic Therapy, May-June 2012, pages 252–259
Current Drug Delivery, November 2011, pages 640–660
Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, May 2011, pages 4676–4683
Journal of Biophotonics, January 2010, pages 82–88
Guidelines of Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products, Colipa-CTFA, March 2004, pages 1–10

Jar Packaging: Yes
Tested on animals: No

Helps restore the look of lip plumpness and visibly contours. Luxurious, light, and contains a naturally calming scent. Hyaluronic acid helps smooth the lip area.

Diisostearyl Malate, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Myristic/Palmitic/Stearic/Ricinoleic/Eicosanedioic Glycerides, Squalane, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dextrin Palmitate, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral.

Biossance is the commercial beauty arm of biotechnology brand Amyris. Amyris manufactures plant sugars (like that from sugar cane) into specialty ingredients for use by other companies, but chose to center Biossance around one ingredient in particular: plant-based squalane.

Each Biossance product prominently features squalane; so much that it’s in the name of every offering. Squalane has its merits—it’s an excellent skin-conditioning ingredient and has antioxidant properties—but skin needs much more than one focused ingredient to feel, look, and perform its best.

Thankfully, Biossance includes other ingredients in many of its squalane-centric products and these are also impressive, particularly bakuchiol (which has many retinol-like properties), antioxidants, and peptides. Unfortunately, the brand also uses a number of fragrance ingredients in many of its products, and whether naturally-derived or not, fragrance is known to irritate skin—even if you don’t see or feel the damage taking place. For this reason, most of the brand’s offerings wind up being middle-of-the-road, though there are a couple of standouts.

For more on Biossance, visit the brand’s website at https://biossance.com/.

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