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Biossance

Squalane + Omega Repair Cream

1.70 fl. oz. for $ 58.00
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Brand Overview

Biossance’s Squalane + Omega Repair Cream is billed as a rich, luxurious cream designed to plump up parched skin, and while it can do that, its good aspects are ultimately undone by its packaging.

As advertised, this fragrance-free cream is very emollient, meaning it’s best for those with dry to very dry skin. It sinks into skin relatively quickly, leaving a slightly dewy sheen, thanks to the complement of moisturizing ingredients included.

Along with Biossance’s signature squalane (which is both hydrating and a source of antioxidants), there’s shea butter, plumping sodium hyaluronate, and a skin-replenishing ceramide alongside the titular omega fatty acids that help to soothe skin’s barrier.

All of that is great… but great skin care formulas require great packaging, too. This comes in a jar, which routinely exposes its ingredients to light and air. That’s problematic because the antioxidants in this cream break down when repeatedly exposed to light and air (see More Info). Even if this weren’t the case, jars are still unsanitary because bacteria can be easily introduced to them (see More Info).

It’s better to select one of the more thoughtfully-packaged creams that can be found both in drugstores and department stores (and usually for less than this costs).

Pros:
  • Emollient formula instantly relieves dryness.
  • Includes antioxidant-rich squalane.
  • Contains ingredients to help soothe skin’s barrier.
  • Fragrance free.
Cons:
  • Packaged in a jar, which doesn’t protect its sensitive ingredients from light and air.

More Info:
Jar Packaging & Anti-Aging Moisturizers: Beneficial anti-aging ingredients, which include all plant extracts, almost all vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients, are unstable, which means they begin to break down in the presence of air. Once a jar is opened and lets air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate, becoming less and less effective. Routine exposure to daylight also is problematic for these ingredients.

Jar packaging is also unsanitary because you dip your fingers into the jar with each use, contaminating the product. This stresses the preservative system, leading to further deterioration of the beneficial ingredients.

Remember: The ingredients that provide the most benefit in addressing visible signs of aging must be in airtight or air-restrictive packaging to remain effective throughout usage. Buying products in this type of packaging means that the ingredients have the best chance of remaining effective—to the benefit of your skin!

References for this information:
Pharmacology Review, July 2013, pages 97–106
Dermatologic Therapy, May-June 2012, pages 252–259
Current Drug Delivery, November 2011, pages 640–660
Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, May 2011, pages 4676–4683
Journal of Biophotonics, January 2010, pages 82–88
Guidelines of Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products, Colipa-CTFA, March 2004, pages 1–10

Jar Packaging: Yes
Tested on animals: No

A rich, decadent cream with all the good fats (lipids) your skin needs to deeply moisturize without leaving a greasy after feel. Formulated with lipids that mimic and support skin’s natural moisture barrier: squalane, omega fatty acids, ceramides and plant sterols help nourish, plump, hydrate and feed your skin.

Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isoamyl Laurate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Ceramide NP, Jojoba Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Ethyl Linoleate, Tocopherol, Isoamyl Cocoate, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Gluconate.

Biossance is the commercial beauty arm of biotechnology brand Amyris. Amyris manufactures plant sugars (like that from sugar cane) into specialty ingredients for use by other companies, but chose to center Biossance around one ingredient in particular: plant-based squalane.

Each Biossance product prominently features squalane; so much that it’s in the name of every offering. Squalane has its merits—it’s an excellent skin-conditioning ingredient and has antioxidant properties—but skin needs much more than one focused ingredient to feel, look, and perform its best.

Thankfully, Biossance includes other ingredients in many of its squalane-centric products and these are also impressive, particularly bakuchiol (which has many retinol-like properties), antioxidants, and peptides. Unfortunately, the brand also uses a number of fragrance ingredients in many of its products, and whether naturally-derived or not, fragrance is known to irritate skin—even if you don’t see or feel the damage taking place. For this reason, most of the brand’s offerings wind up being middle-of-the-road, though there are a couple of standouts.

For more on Biossance, visit the brand’s website at https://biossance.com/.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.

Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.