Skinn by Dimitri James


0.25 fl. oz. for $ 36.50
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Brand Overview

This roll-on eye moisturizer contains almost every ingredient touted to have a miraculous effect on dark circles and puffiness. Of course, if any of these ingredients worked as claimed, no one would have these common eye maladies. The most played-up ingredient complex in Hylighten is Haloxyl. Skinn maintains it is the only patented ingredient proven to diminish puffiness and dark circles. Before we discuss that claim, you need to know that a patent has nothing to do with efficacy; it just restricts who can use the ingredient (or product) that’s patented. we repeat: Obtaining a patent for an ingredient or complex doesn’t require proof of efficacy. And there are no ingredients anywhere in the world with published research showing they can improve dark circles, and Skinn doesn’t cite any substantiated studies anyway.

Haloxyl is a trademarked ingredient blend from cosmetic raw material supplier Croda. It consists of the following ingredients: water, glycerin, steareth-20, N-hydroxysuccinimide, chrysin, palmitoyl oligopeptide, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. As we said, there is no substantiated, published research anywhere proving these ingredients, whether used alone or as part of the Haloxyl blend, improve puffy eyes or lighten dark circles. Croda claims that their “clinical” studies, which are neither published nor peer reviewed, revealed that dark circle intensity was reduced by 45%, but without seeing the study and knowing how it was set up, you’re left to take their word for it (and, really, what else are they going to say?). By the way, Croda also sells other blends of ingredients they claim will get rid of dark circles, so even Croda doesn’t think Haloxyl is the only answer for dark circles.

The other ingredients in this eye moisturizer, such as vitamin K, don’t work on dark circles or puffy eyes either. Consider this a good, although way-too-expensive (when you do the math, it comes out to $146 an ounce), lightweight moisturizer that contains peptides (which theoretically have cell-communicating ability, but no research associated with improving dark circles), skin-identical ingredients, and antioxidants. Although it won’t work to deflate puffy eyes or lighten dark circles, it is worth considering for use around the eyes or elsewhere on the face.

Jar Packaging: No
Tested on animals: No

This super concentrated formula contains maximum levels Haloxyl, the only patented ingredient scientifically proven to diminish puffiness and under-eye dark circles caused by stress, fatigue - even genetics. Hylighten combats the three known elements that cause under-eye dark circles, by slowly breaking them down and allowing them to synthesize within the skin. A truly revolutionary skin care product that delivers what it promises!

Tea Leaf Extract, Cucumber Fruit Extract, Water (and) Glycerin (and) Steareth-20 (and) N-Hydroxysuccinimide (and) Chrysin (and) Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Haloxyl), Isopentyldiol, Chitosan, Glycosaminoglycans, Glycolic Acid, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (Guar Gum), PEG-12 Dimethicone, Caffeine, Phospholipids and Phytonadione (Vitamin K), Biosaccharide Gum, Chlorphenesin

Skinn by Dimitri James At-A-Glance

Strengths: The toner; a few good moisturizers, including some designed for the eye area (even though skin around the eyes doesn't require a separate product) and for oily skin; the lip scrub; the Nutri-Lift products (even though they don't lift skin in the least); mostly good, and some intriguing, makeup palettes; some great mascaras; the automatic eyeliner pencil.

Weaknesses: No sunscreens (How can you take any cosmetic line's anti-aging claims seriously when they completely overlook the importance of sun protection?); jar packaging for antioxidant-rich products; no products to manage acne or skin.

Dimitri James is a makeup artist, hair stylist, and fashion consultant who spent two decades working for some of the biggest cosmetics companies in the world. After stints with brands such as Estee Lauder and Revlon, he decided, as so many others have before him, to launch his own products. Apparently, he was disenchanted with the business model most large cosmetics companies follow. According to James, the formula was always the same: "make a cheap product, put it in a fancy jar with a nice box and charge as much as possible." His cynical summation is definitely appreciated by those of us on the Cosmetics Cop team. Ironically, however, for the most part, Skinn's business model mimics the business model of many large and small cosmetics companies; that is, his products come in fancy jars, make inane unsupported claims, and are absurdly overpriced. Adding to that insanity, many of his products are poorly formulated.

Aside from the glaring same old, same old mix of disenchantment, those hoping for some good news about Skinn products will be pleased to know that this line does have some products worth considering. That doesn't mean the claims are accurate or that they outperform excellent products from many other lines. Overlooking the omission of reliable sunscreen from this line, the handful of good formulas are capable of getting as close as possible to keeping skin looking youthful and healthy. They won't replace cosmetic corrective procedures, but no skin-care routine will do that. Please refer to the list of strengths for products worth your attention; any products not on that list you can skip, unless you want to set yourself up for disappointment, and you will be disappointed if you expect the farfetched claims to come true.

Skinn's promises for their makeupthat they will make you a picture of airbrushed perfectionare beyond reality. Today's best makeup products can go a long way toward making a beautiful finish to your appearance and they're easier to apply than ever before. Just keep in mind that technique still plays a major role, so don't expect any makeup product to be the final answer. Skinn's color line has just as many misses as hits, so shop carefully. In this case, the foundations and concealer are not worth considering over countless others, but there are some great powder blushes and eyeshadows, a fantastic eye pencil, and mascaras that perform beautifully; but again, these are easily replaced with less expensive options. Those intrigued by makeup palettes may find some good options here, too.

All told, the Skinn line has a handful of impressive products, but it's not remotely "the revolution in cosmetics" Dimitri James makes it out to be. For more information about Skinn by Dimitri James, call (866) 346-4874 or visit www.skinn.com.

Note: This line is sold primarily on home shopping channels.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.

Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.

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