Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream
The special ingredient in this moisturizer that NeoStrata Canada claims will improve your skin’s elasticity is a plant extract known as Kegilia africana. There is no research proving this ingredient does a thing to help firm skin or that it has any effect on skin that’s begun to sag. The multiple factors that cause sagging cannot be addressed by any skin-care product or ingredient. We wish that weren’t the case, but it’s the truth.
What can help make your skin firmer is the 6% glycolic acid in this product, which is formulated to ensure efficacy, and there is plenty of research proving that glycolic acid is helpful in making skin look and act younger (Sources: Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156–1162; Cutis, August 2001, pages 135–142; Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, July 2000, pages 280–284; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, March-April 2000, pages 81–88; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 1999, pages 111–119; and Dermatologic Surgery, August 1997, pages 689–694).
Although that’s great news, there are two problems: (1) the overall formula is almost void of other beneficial, state-of-the-art ingredients, and (2) the product is packaged in a jar, which means the beneficial ingredients won’t remain stable once it is opened.
All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients.
Formulated with Kigeline, an ingredient renowned to improve skin elasticity and glycolic acid which reduces the appearance of wrinkles.
NeoStrata Canada At-a-Glance
Strengths: Effective AHA products with glycolic acid and, in some instances, the polyhydroxy acid gluconolactone; good, but pricey self-tanner; some well-formulated moisturizers and vitamin C serums.
Weaknesses: Irritating anti-acne products; the AHA with sunscreen products do not provide sufficient UVA protection, leaving your skin vulnerable to the sun's aging rays; most of the skin-brightening products contain an irritating amount of alcohol; jar packaging; some of the products contain such large amounts of anti-aging ingredients that they tip the scales toward irritation rather than toward youthful benefits.
NeoStrata Canada is not associated in any way with the NeoStrata brand sold in the United States, and the product selections are completely different. We asked NeoStrata Canada's owner, Canderma Pharma, Inc., why many of the products are completely different, but no one would tell us, so it remains a mystery.
What NeoStrata Canada and the U.S.-sold NeoStrata products do have in common is an abundance of well-formulated AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) exfoliants at effective concentrations and at the correct pH levels. The prices are all over the place, but for the most part you can be assured that any AHA product you purchase from NeoStrata Canada will exfoliate your skin and provide additional benefits such as improved skin texture and tone.
Exfoliants are both lines' key selling point, but they're not perfect. For example, the AHA products with sunscreen do not provide enough critical UVA protection (meaning they lack the UVA-protecting active ingredients of avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Tinsorb, ecamsule, or Mexoryl SX). That lack is a disappointment for those who were hoping that an AHA plus sunscreen would be a convenience.
NeoStrata Canada has several other intriguing products that include impressive ingredients such as peptides, retinol, vitamin C, and the company's patented AHA alternative, the polyhydroxy acid known as gluconolactone. Despite including some great ingredients, the formulas suffer from the inclusion of irritants (alcohol is a big one) and/or packaging that won't keep the beneficial ingredients stable during use.
The serums with vitamin C are worth a look, if you're curious about vitamin C. However, you'd do better looking for vitamin C in a product that also treats your skin to a variety of beneficial ingredients because one antioxidant is never enough; your skin requires much more (just like your diet) to be healthy so it can look and act younger.
Because NeoStrata Canada's products are not associated with the NeoStrata brand sold in the United States, our team called NeoStrata Canada's customer service to get additional consumer information about their products. Unfortunately, NeoStrata Canada's customer service phone number was perpetually set to voicemail, and our numerous messages (all left as regular customers, not as investigators) were never returned. After two weeks, the one email reply we did get in response to a question concerning active ingredients said simply that they couldn't give us any information. Their solution was to tell us that we would have to locate the product on store shelves to answer our own question. Either our question was too probing or NeoStrata Canada's strength is not customer service.
For more information about NeoStrata Canada, call (800) 636-3664 or visit www.neostrata.ca.
Note: All prices are in Canadian currency.
About the Experts
The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.
Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.