This pricy moisturizer from DHC claims to combat signs of aging with a peptide linked to epidermal growth factors. We think it’s a good thing the growth factor peptide in question is barely present. Why? Because the research examining the topical effects of epidermal growth factors has been short term and concerned primarily with their effect on wound healing. Wrinkles and discolorations (common signs of aging) are not wounds, and although the claim that you can “heal” a wrinkle like a wound by treating it with growth factors is good theory, the research hasn’t been done to prove such efficacy (or safety).
In theory, epidermal growth factors (hormones that induce skin-cell production), when applied topically, may trigger repair mechanisms in skin that have become faulty due to age and sun damage (DNA damage caused by sun exposure). However, theory isn’t fact. The problem is, we don’t know for sure which growth factors work best, how much is needed, and whether or not long-term use is safe (Sources: Skin Research and Technology, August 2008, pages 370–375; and The Surgeon, June 2008, pages 172–177).
In addition, it’s well known that epidermal growth factors administered orally as an adjunct or alternative to chemotherapy cause a variety of skin problems, from rashes to acne (Source: Clinical Journal of Oncology Nursing, April 2008, pages 283–290). In short, until more is known about formulary protocols for epidermal growth factors in skin-care products, we don’t advise using them as part of your anti-aging skin-care routine, no matter how small an amount is in the product. Although the small amount means that it is probably not going to have any effect at all, pro or con, why take the risk?
The other peptides in this formula are good, we just wish there was more of them! You're getting an emollient moisturizer for dry skin whose plant oil and antioxidant efficacy will suffer due to the jar packaging (after all those claims, using jar packaging is just an unwise decision). This ends up being a grandiose-sounding product that oesn’t outpace many lesser priced options.
Note: In our mission to share the latest skincare research and knowledge, we make every effort to update reviews as new published studies about ingredients and skincare change. This sometimes results in a change in the product’s rating, as well as the content of the review itself, either for the good or bad. In the case of peptides, the new research about them is very good news.
In recent years, the research on what peptides can do for skin has changed dramatically. What was once just theory or considered impossible has proven to be completely possible, so certain reviews have been updated to reflect this. Depending on the peptides used in a product they can play an integral role in helping to train skin to become firmer, smoother, brighter, more even, and show fewer wrinkles. Simply put, peptide research is now a much more exciting, verifiable field than what we knew even a few short years ago.
What remains true is that despite the fascinating benefits certain peptides can deliver to skin, they cannot and do not replace or surpass what certain cosmetic corrective procedures can do. As for our reviews, we will continue, as always, to evaluate products based on the claims they carry compared with what the research has shown is true.
Scientific Report, January 2018, ePublication
Cosmetics, May 2017, pages 1-14
Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, and Leprology, January-February 2017, pages 9-18
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, December 2016, pages 514-519
Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, November 2016, pages 411-419
Experimental and Therapeutic Medicine, August 2016, pages 1,171-1,176
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, June 2015, pages 152-160
This luxurious moisturizer combats visible signs of aging, including wrinkles and loss of elasticity, with the technologically advanced polypeptide EGF (epidermal growth factor). Contains age-fighting vitamins, minerals, and amino acids to nourish mature skin to encourage elasticity and glow, as well as skins natural cell turnover cycle.
Strengths: Several inexpensive products; many fragrance-free products; complete product ingredient lists on their Web site; several worthwhile cleansers and makeup removers; an effective AHA product; antioxidant olive oil and olive leaf extract are present in many products.
Weaknesses: Mostly unexciting toners; an effective BHA product that regrettably contains an irritant; no skin-brightening options with a roster of proven ingredients; huge assortment of products, many with repetitive or gimmicky formulas; products with nanoparticles of silver (completely useless for skin), which can cause permanent skin discoloration (who wants to absorb silver into their skin given that it can be toxic when consumed).
There's a lot of interest in this Japan-based line; the e-mails asking if these products really work keep pouring in, which means their marketing campaign is garnering the attention it's supposed to. The problem we have, though, is that we don't see any substantial reason to explain the DHC line's popularity!
First of all, here's a little background information. DHC (which stands for Daigaku Honyaku Center) is the Number 1 direct-mail skin-care company in Japan. Their U.S. headquarters is in San Francisco, and they publish a huge (and poorly organized) catalog a few times each year. Many of you have received their catalog unsolicited, perhaps with a few sample packets of DHC products, which may be why we receive so many questions asking whether the products are worth it. The overall answer to that question: Absolutely not! Although DHC offers some very good products, none of them are groundbreaking or unique in a way that's meaningful for the health and appearance of your skin.
The company bases many of their formulas around olive oil and olive extracts. In fact, if you're looking for the most expensive bottle of pure olive oil around, look no farther than the tiny vial DHC offers as their star product! They do their best to convince you that this olive oil is special because it is purified, but we ask you: What do you think you're buying at the grocery store? Do you think it's unpurified, sludge-laden olive oil? Of course not! And your skin won't be able to tell the difference between DHC's olive oil and a quality olive oil from your local market; you can use either one to moisturize dry skin.
What does olive oil have to offer your skin? Well, it's a good source of antioxidants and, of course, has moisturizing properties for dry skin, but that's about it. Olive oil isn't a must-have ingredient for skin, but is a must-avoid ingredient if you're prone to breakouts or have oily skin because its fatty acid content can contribute to clogged pores. Its antioxidant ability has been proven, but there is also research showing that other oils (such as date seed oil) offer even better antioxidant protection (Sources: Biofactors, 2007, pages 137145; Free Radical Biology and Medicine, April 2005, pages 908919; and www.naturaldatabase.com). DHC would have been wiser to couple olive oil with other established antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients, but instead they parsed those ingredients out over a wide variety of products, most with overlapping or repetitive claims.
For example, their olive-based products contain olive oil or extract and no other antioxidants of note, save for a tiny amount of vitamin E. But then they offer standalone vitamin C products, vitamin A products, and several products containing coenzyme Q10. We can assure you that more of their products would have earned a better rating had they contained a cocktail of skin-friendly ingredients rather than making their customers pick and choose among such a huge, disjointed assortment (and your skin would benefit from them all being together, as many other companies have done). You shouldn't have to pick four or five DHC moisturizers to get the benefit of multiple antioxidants, but that's the predicament you'll be in, and things get confusing when you try to determine which of the company's claims have merit and which do not. (Hint: Most of them are nothing more than a string of adjectives along with a sprinkling of truth.)
Speaking of disjointed, although we don't normally comment much on a line's packaging beyond the need for avoidance of jars for products with antioxidants and other sensitive ingredients, DHC's packaging is all over the place. The logo, color schemes, bottle shapes, fonts, and just about everything else have no rhyme or reason. You could easily have several DHC products on your vanity and the only way you'd know they were from the same line is the company name, if you can find it. On the upside, DHC avoids jar packaging for their antioxidant-enriched products.
The main benefit of DHC products is the lack of fragrance, though a few products do contain fragrant floral extracts, as noted in the individual reviews. If you're curious to try this Japan import, it is possible to assemble a good, basic routine. However, this is also a line you could ignore in favor of a selection of skin-care products that offer more for your money, especially in terms of single products with multiple state-of-the-art ingredients for skin, and fewer claims that don't correlate with what the ingredients can actually do for your skin. One more plus that deserves mention: the company is forthcoming with their ingredient lists, and their customer service in that arena is prompt and thorough.
For more information about DHC, call (800) 342-2273 or visit www.dhccare.com.
About the Experts
The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.
Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.