If this moisturizer represents Dr. Perricone’s “most comprehensive and efficacious work to date” then he should go on record and admit that, oops, all of the other anti-aging, antiwrinkle, and neuropeptide products bearing his name cost way too much and don’t work as well as Cold Plasma. Of course, that won’t happen, and Perricone will continue to sell numerous anti-aging products, each with beguiling claims, misleading hype about miraculous results, and offensive price tags. All the various products in this line are reminiscent of snake oil. Why can't Perricone decide which anti-aging product is his best and stop offering consumers so many misleading, terribly expensive products, all with similar claims?
Supposedly, Cold Plasma is the result of five years of scientific research. Never mind that Perricone didn’t publish any of this research and certainly doesn’t make it available in any form to the public. As for the "cold plasma" portion of the name, it refers to an ionized gas that has low energy. What that has to do with skin care is anyone's guess; most likely, Perricone chose the name because it sounds novel and new.
Perricone proclaims this product can take care of the 10 signs of aging. Whether your concern is wrinkles, large pores, redness, discolorations, loss of firmness, and on and on, Cold Plasma is alleged to be the cure, promising “extraordinary results.” On the other hand, it doesn’t even contain a sunscreen, so that’s one contributor to signs of aging that it can’t address. But there are lots of other issues this product can't address, including acne and loss of firmness.
The results that Perricone claims this product can provide are due to what he calls an “ionic-suspension carrier.” That does sound impressive and scientific until you realize that ions (an atom or group of atoms that has lost or gained one or more electrons, making it positively or negatively charged) are suspended in lots of products, from skin and hair care to medicines. Using ions in a suspension isn’t a guarantee of a superior or groundbreaking anti-aging product; it’s just a way to make any moisturizer sound more special than it is, and an attempt to justify the product’s cost.
Perhaps the most laughable claim made for Cold Plasma is that its technology is said to “understand” your skin. You’re asked to believe that this product “determines the nutrients” your skin needs to stay healthy and youthful, which is physiologically impossible. The claim, of course, is absurd, but your skin does need a complex, wide range of ingredients to reach a healthy, youthful state; unfortunately, Perricone included only a handful of beneficial ingredients in this product, so even if this product could tell what your skin needs, it wouldn’t be able to provide it because it isn’t in here. What’s more, the jar packaging won’t keep any of the ingredients that are in here stable once it is opened. What a bad joke for the consumer. Is there some sort of consolation prize for a product that purports to give skin everything it needs yet is incapable of doing that?
Using this product in lieu of other, less expensive options in better packaging and with even better ingredients is surrendering to the undeserved hype that doctor-designed lines tend to have—and Perricone often leads the pack. And spending this much money on any single skin-care product is foolish, plain and simple.
A few more comments: as with most of Perricone’s anti-aging products, this contains dimethyl MEA. Also known as DMAE, this ingredient is controversial because research has shown conflicting results. It seems to offer an initial benefit that improves skin but these results are short-lived and eventually give way to destruction of substances in skin that help build healthy collagen (Sources: Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, November-December 2007, pages 711–718; and American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, Volume 6, 2005, pages 39–47).
Interestingly, there is a formulation challenge when using DMAE in skin-care products. In order to maintain efficacy and stability, the product’s pH level needs to be at least 10. A pH of 10 is highly alkaline, which isn’t good news for skin. A high pH like this can increase bacteria content in the pore and cause dryness and irritation. Moreover, since almost all moisturizers (including serums and eye creams) are formulated with a pH that closely matches that of human skin (generally 5.5–6.5, which is on the acidic side of the scale), in all likelihood the DMAE used in skin-care products cannot have any prolonged functionality. (Source: Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, Supplement 72, 2008, pages S17–S22).
Cold Plasma represents Dr. Perricone's most comprehensive and efficacious work to date. Formulated with a revolutionary patented ionic-suspension carrier, Cold Plasma delivers all the nutrients skin cells need to help repair and regenerate. For the first time ever, your skin will experience what Dr. Perricone refers to as biochemical individuality. Regardless of how many or how few targeted nutrients are needed by each cell, this carrier system ensures optimal delivery of nutrients to help correct the ten most visible signs of aging: wrinkles, enlarged pores, dryness, redness, discoloration, uneven skin tone, impurities, loss of firmness, loss of smoothness, and loss of radiance. Whatever your age or skin type, Cold Plasma delivers extraordinary results.
Perricone MD CosmeceuticalsAt-A-Glance
Strengths: A handful of good cleansers; a couple of worthwhile moisturizers for the eye area; several fragrance-free products; a few impressive makeup products.
Weaknesses: Expensive; long on claims not supported by evidence-based science; use of controversial ingredients throughout the line; several antioxidant-rich products are packaged in jars, which renders those beneficial ingredients less effective.
This dermatologist-developed line is perhaps the best known in an increasingly crowded field. The frenzy began with Nicholas Perricone's first book, The Wrinkle Cure, and continued when he appeared on PBS to discuss his book and namesake products, all of which seemed incredibly legitimate to consumers worried about how to look younger longer. PBS reaped a financial windfall from his appearance, netting millions of dollars between 2001 and 2002 (Source: www.quackwatch.org). Originally all the fuss centered around vitamin C and alpha lipoic acid, but as his success continued, Perricone wrote half a dozen more books and expanded his product line to include other over-hyped ingredients, each with claims (and price tags) more inflated than the last round.
We sourced the Web site Quackwatch.org because they have an excellent, unbiased report on the Perricone phenomenon. This non-profit site is operated by consumer advocate Dr. Stephen Barrett, and, to quote the Quackwatch Mission Statement, their purpose is "to combat health-related frauds, myths, fads, fallacies, and misconduct." That's where Perricone comes into play. According to Quackwatch, Perricone's books "contain many claims that are questionable, controversial, fanciful, unsupported by published evidence, or just plain wrong. Although he mentions standard skin-care treatments, sometimes favorably, his books provide little guidance about when they might be appropriate or sufficient. Although he provides long lists of references, practically none of them directly support what he promises." Those sentiments are exactly what we felt and wrote after reading The Wrinkle Cure.
The site goes on to state: "Perricone's books are sprinkled with statements that his ideas are based on his own research. However, the extent and quality of this research is unclear. A PubMed search for his name brought up only six citations, of which only two appear to be original research, both on topical glycolic acid. His books describe situations in which he tested various ideas in a few patients, usually over a short period of time, but he provides few details and apparently published none of those findings in medical journals." Does that sound like the kind of products you'd like to spend (a lot of) your money on?
They go on to conclude (and we agree completely with the following text): "Dr. Perricone has mixed a pinch of science with a gallon of imagination to create an elaborate, time-consuming, expensive, prescription for a healthy life and younger skin. There is no reason to think his program is more effective than standard measures. Although some of his advice is standard, most of his recommendations are based on speculation and fanciful interpretation of selected medical literature. He makes lots of money by convincing patients and consumers, but he hasn't succeeded in convincing critical thinkers, doctors, scientists, or anyone who wants to see hard evidence. Perricone's prescription isn't science; it's creative salesmanship." And which ingredient is the answer for healthy skin? Perricone can't seem to make up his mind, because one group of products contains alpha lipoic acid, another group olive oil, another vitamin C, and still another neuropeptides. Come on, doctor, which is it?
One ingredient Perricone uses deserves some discussion because it is present in all of his products, and that's dimethyl MEA, also known as DMAE (chemically 2-dimethyl-aminoethanol). DMAE has been around for years as an oral supplement that's popularly believed to improve mental alertness, much like Ginkgo biloba and coenzyme Q10. However, the research about DMAE does not show the same positive results as the other two supplements. Because DMAE is chemically similar to choline, DMAE is thought to stimulate production of acetylcholine. And because acetylcholine is a brain neurotransmitter, it's easy to see how it could be associated with brain function. However, only a handful of studies have looked at DMAE for that purpose and they have not been conclusive in the least, while some have shown that DMAE may be problematic or not very effective (Sources: Mechanisms of Aging and Development, February 1988, pages 129138; Neuropharmacology, June 1989, pages, 557561; European Neurology, 1991, pages 423425; and European Journal of Medical Research, May 2003, pages 183191).
How does any of this translate into skin care, or, more to the point, suppressing the signs of aging? Perricone claims DMAE restores muscle tone to skin that has lost firmness and has begun to slacken, as well as conveying an antioxidant benefit. Johnson & Johnson uses DMAE in a few of their Neutrogena products, and a study they paid for appeared in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (June 2005, pages 3947). The conclusion was as follows: "the benefits of DMAE in dermatology include a potential anti-inflammatory effect and a documented increase in skin firmness with possible improvement in underlying facial muscle tone." The study examined topical application of 3% DMAE over a period of 16 weeks, but it was not done double-blind and was not placebo-controlled, which makes the results, at best, questionable. Moreover, the study didn't examine whether a 3% or lower concentration of other ingredients, such as green tea, glycolic acid, vitamin C, or myriad others (many of which Perricone has extolled in his other products, and the amount of DMAE he used varies widely from product to product), might have had the same or better results.
Is there any reason to get excited (and drain your pocketbook) for products with DMAE? Apparently not; a study published in The British Journal of Dermatology (May 2007) has shown contrary evidence that it may actually pose risks for the skin. In vitro tests of the pure substance, as well as creams that contained DMAE, demonstrated a fairly fast and significant increase in protective elements around the skin cell. However, a short time later the researchers observed an important reduction in cell growth and in some cases they found that it halted cell growth altogether. So, while you may initially experience a kind of swelling of the skin because of the expanding effect caused by topical application of DMAE, the long-term results appear to be far from desirable.
Interestingly, even though this ingredient is present throughout Perricone's line, he has yet to publish his own research discussing the claims and explaining how topical DMAE works. The bottom line is that as more research comes to light, DMAE may prove more problematic than helpful for aging skin. But in the meantime, Perricone is raking in lots of money by convincing consumers otherwise.
For more information about Perricone MD Cosmeceuticals call (888) 823-7837 or visit www.perriconemd.com.
About the Experts
The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.
Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.