Camellia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream
Aesop comes so close to creating some truly good options for dry skin, yet falls short of success due to the inclusion of at least one, and often more, plant oils known to cause irritation. Camellia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream exemplifies this problem. This moisturizer begins with a promising array of non-fragrant plant oils, fatty acids, and skin-repairing ingredients. However, the amount of fragrant sandalwood poses a strong risk of irritation. See More Info for details on fragrance in beauty products.
An extract of Camellia japonica, a flowering plant, is the focus of this moisturizer; fortunately, it isn't a fragrance compound and needn't be avoided. Camellia japonica extract acts primarily as an emollient, with some antioxidant benefit (like many non-fragrant plant oils).
There is limited research demonstrating that Camellia japonica has the ability to lighten sun damage, but what research exists is based on in vitro (not on actual human skin) tests, so don't get your hopes up yet in terms of this benefit (Source: Journal of Natural Products, August, 2012, pages 1425–1430).
Even if Camellia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream were a good option for skin (meaning, if Aesop had omitted the sandalwood), the jar packaging makes this formula one to skip—jar packaging is a problem for the reasons we discuss in the More Info section.
Bottom line: You will find far better alternatives to the Camellia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream on our list of Best Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime).
- Contains some beneficial ingredients for dry skin.
- Contains a concerning amount of irritating sandalwood.
- Packaged in a jar.
- Pricey for what you get.
- Additional fragrant oils included pose a further risk of irritation.
Fragranced Skin Care: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin. What is perhaps most shocking is that all of these damaging responses can be taking place underneath the skin and you won't even notice it on the surface. The clearest example of this is the significant and carcinogenic effect of the sun's "silent" UVA rays. You don't feel the penetration of these mutagenic rays, but they are taking a toll on your skin nonetheless (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).
Jar Packaging: The fact that this product is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and most other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also present a hygiene issue because even if you wash your hands or use a spatula to remove the product, you're introducing bacteria that cause further breakdown (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818-829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271-288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197-203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1-32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
The complex blend of nut and plant extracts in this extensively researched formulation absorbs swiftly, providing anti-oxidant fortification and richly nourishing hydration without a weighty after-feel. Superbly emollient cold-pressed Macadamia Nut oil softens the skin, while Camellia Nut oil and Chamomile oil pacify irritation and patchiness.
Strengths: Some products are packaged to keep their light- and air-sensitive ingredients stable.
Weaknesses:Multiple fragrant ingredients are present in each product reviewed, and this poses a strong risk of irritation; no effective options for treating concerns like acne, brown spots, or rosacea; jar packaging for some of the moisturizers wont keep the beneficial ingredients stable; overpriced.
Australian brand Aesop bears the same name as the famous Greek storyteller, and their skin-care products certainly emulate the art of storytelling with their formulas and marketing. The question is whether or not you can believe Aesop and their natural-themed skin-care stories, or if its mostly fable.
From Aesop's stripped-down, utilitarian packaging, earthy product descriptions, and overall design aesthetic, its easy to see why those interested in natural-oriented products are attracted to the Aesop brand. How could skin-care products that seem to be so pure and natural be bad, right? We certainly understand the emotional pull natural products have on many people, but the truth is there are good and bad natural ingredients (snake venom and poison ivy are both natural ingredients, but you wouldn't want them on your face), just as there are good and bad synthetic ingredients. Going natural without knowing the details of what you're buying is a recipe for skin problems, not a guarantee of better products.
Refreshingly, compared to many natural-themed lines, Aesop doesn't rely on scare tactics or outlandish claims. Therefore, you wont read anything about toxins or about made-up claims that all chemicals are bad (because everything is composed of chemicals). Instead, Aesop prefers to rest on the quality of their formulas and oeuvre to do the real selling. Judging by the number of requests we've had to review this brand, their less sensationalized approach is working!
With that promising start, its disappointing that Aesop chose to include such a generous amount of fragrance and plant-based irritants in many of their products. In fact, there wasn't a single fragrance-free option in any of the products that we reviewed. (In fact, the box they were shipped in was saturated with fragrance just from the shipping process.) There were a few products with lower amounts of added fragrance, these instances are noted (where applicable)but there usually were other compelling reasons to avoid any given product in this brand, or at least to consider it cautiously.
Also noteworthy: You will find that much of Aesop's line, from their cleansers, toners, and moisturizers to their masks and eye treatments, have high-end price tags. While we tend to leave it up to the reader to determine what is or isn't expensive, there were a few instances where the formulas were so basic that we had to mention the disconnect with the cost, these were truly simple blends of ingredients that in no way justified their cost.
All of the above is a prelude to the most critical downfall of the Aesop products: There are no options that can successfully (and without potential irritation) address the needs of various skin types or skin concerns of many people. Whether you're struggling with acne, wrinkles, both, or numerous other concerns, from sensitive skin to conditions like rosacea or eczema, you wont find brilliant products to treat them here. Overall, that means assembling a great skin-care routine with Aesop products just isn't possible.
Aesop is sold primarily in department stores like Barneys New York, online, as well as freestanding Aesop stores throughout the United States. Despite their growing distribution, we cannot stress enough how much this lines products disappoint. Aesop has natural ingredients aplenty, but what good is that when so many of the natural ingredients they chose are of little to no benefit for skin, or are potentially problematic?
For more information about Aesop, visit http://www.aesop.com/usa/
About the Experts
The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.
Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.