Atoderm Mains & Ongles Ultra Repair
Bioderma makes lofty claims for Atoderm Mains & Ongles Ultra Repair by saying this hand cream “regenerates even the most damaged skin.” While it contains some beneficial ingredients for dry skin, the potent fragrance poses a conundrum for your skin.
Dispensed via opaque squeeze tube, the silky lotion consistency delivers immediate hydration yet absorbs quickly, leaving skin feeling comforted but not greasy. If you have severely dry, cracked hands, the texture won’t be rich enough for you, but otherwise skin is treated to a few replenishing humectants that help draw moisture in, as well as emollients that impart a soft finish. Lower on the ingredient list you’ll find prebiotics that work towards stabilizing skin’s microbiome. This is a nice touch because research shows doing so helps keep pathogens from invading compromised skin.
While all of that is great, the wafting fragrance is hard to ignore. Whether or not you enjoy the scent, research shows that fragrance compromises skin’s ability to heal itself and poses a risk of irritation. That’s the last thing you want for the “damaged hands prone to dermatological problems” that Bioderma is marketing this toward. We explain the full extent of fragrance’s ramifications in the More Info section.
The bottom line: There are better hand creams out there that treat skin to only good ingredients, none of the bad. And for the record, if the aroma hadn’t been so potent, we would have taken the rating up a notch, but as is, the lingering scent was undeniably strong (so much so that it give one of our editors a headache).
- Leaves skin feeling soft.
- Contains replenishing humectants and emollients to hydrate dry hands.
- Formulated with prebiotics to help reinforce skin’s microbiome.
- The potent, lingering fragrance compromises skin’s ability to heal, which goes against what this hand cream is intended to do.
- Not rich enough to treat severely dry, cracked hands as claimed.
Why Fragrance Is a Problem for Skin: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes a chronic sensitizing reaction on skin.
This reaction in turn leads to all kinds of problems, including disrupting skin’s barrier, worsening dryness, increasing or triggering redness, depleting vital substances in skin’s surface, and generally preventing skin from looking healthy, smooth, and hydrated. Fragrance free is always the best way to go for all skin types.
A surprising fact: Even though you can’t always see or feel the negative effects of fragrant ingredients on skin, the damage will still be taking place, even if it’s not evident on the surface. Research has demonstrated that you don’t need to see or feel the effects of irritation for your skin to be suffering. Much like the effects from cumulative sun damage, the negative impact and the visible damage from fragrance may not become apparent for a long time.
References for this information:
Toxicology In Vitro, February 2018, pages 237-245
Toxicological Sciences, January 2018, pages 139-148
Biochimica and Biophysica Acta, May 2012, pages 1410–1419
Aging, March 2012, pages 166–175
Chemical Immunology and Allergy, March 2012, pages 77–80
Experimental Dermatology, October 2009, pages 821–832
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2008, pages 191–202
International Journal of Toxicology, Volume 27, 2008, Supplement, pages 1–43
Food and Chemical Toxicology, February 2008, pages 446–475
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2003, pages 789–798
A real regenerating and nourishing "glove": it regenerates even the most damaged skin and quickly soothes dry and damaged hands prone to dermatological problems (irritating dryness, chapping, cracking, etc.).
Strengths: Bioderma provides complete product ingredient lists on their site; some very good, fragrance-free facial cleansers; every sunscreen provides sufficient broad-spectrum protection, and most are fragrance-free; a few good mattifying products for oily skin; great prices.
Weaknesses: The endless array of moisturizers are ordinary; the claims don't match what the formulas can actually do; repetitive sunscreen formulas; many of the sunscreens contain a potentially problematic amount of denatured alcohol; disappointing lightening products lacking ingredients that can lighten brown spots; the bronzing SPF products encourage tanning.
Bioderma is a European brand based in France and sold in 70 countries around the world, which explains why we get so many requests to review the brand!
According to information on their website, the team at Bioderma has been collaborating with dermatologists and renowned international research centers for over 20 years, all to bring you products that are the most frequently prescribed by French dermatologists. Sounds impressive, but the proof is in the products, not the posturing!
The Bioderma range is huge, but also hugely repetitive. Few brands offer as many cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens as Bioderma, yet the onslaught creates a lot of confusion, and the differences between many of these formulas are subtle to indistinguishable. There are some good products, but overall the formulas are lackluster. When shopping this line, you really have to choose carefully and not get too hung up on the various names and claims because often virtually the same product formula comes with different benefits on the label, again and again. And again.
Many people with sensitive skin ask us about Bioderma, perhaps because the company frequently mentions that their products are hypoallergenic. That term hypoallergenic is misleading, as explained below.
There are no accepted testing methods, ingredient restrictions, regulations, guidelines, rules, or procedures of any kind, anywhere in the world, for determining whether or not a product qualifies as being hypoallergenic. So, any company can label any product hypoallergenic because there is no regulation that says they cant, no matter what so-called evidence they may use to make their point, and what proof can they provide given there is no standard against which to measure?
Given that there are no regulations governing hypoallergenic products, we know there are plenty of products labeled hypoallergenic that actually contain problematic ingredients and that can indeed trigger allergic reactions, even for those with no previous history of skin sensitivity and that's certainly true for many Bioderma products. We wish that weren't the case, but the word hypoallergenic gives you no reliable understanding of what you are or aren't putting on your skin.
That being said, we applaud Bioderma for avoiding the use of known sensitizing ingredients like peppermint, lavender, menthol, and all types of citrus, which unfortunately are rampant in the world of skin care. Many Bioderma products are also fragrance-free and in that sense are absolutely worth a look, whether sensitive skin is an issue or not. (Fragrance-free is best for all skin types.)
Despite the huge number of products, there are some surprising holes in the Bioderma line. For example, this isn't a line to shop if you're struggling with breakouts, there are no effective AHA or BHA exfoliants, the skin-lightening products have drawbacks that don't make them worth considering over better options, and you wont find advanced anti-aging formulations of any kind. You're in luck if you want lots of choices in cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens, but as mentioned above, there's a lot to wade through, and much of it is repetitive. Were all for brands offering choices for different skin types, concerns, and textures (such as gel versus lotion), but Biodermas range simply isn't as varied as it is large. A large mix of relatively wishy-washy formulations is really not a plus for your skin.
For more information about Bioderma, visit www.bioderma.com.
About the Experts
The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.
Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.