Anti-Expression Line Cream
This AHA moisturizer contains 4% glycolic acid formulated at an effective pH of 3.5, making it a decent option for exfoliating normal to dry skin.
Exfoliating skin with a well-formulated AHA product can help reduce expression lines by making skin appear smoother and enhancing healthy collagen production, among other factors. This product would have been better if it also contained a blend of skin-repairing, antioxidant, and cell-communicating ingredients to help skin look and act younger. As is, you’re essentially getting a basic AHA exfoliant with a cloying pink tint.
NeoStrata Canada states on the package that this product contains 2% Myoxinol, which they claim relieves expression lines. It turns out that Myoxniol is nothing more than a trade name for the plant extract Hibiscus esculentus. This plant, like countless other plants, is a good source of antioxidants and other beneficial substances, but there is no convincing research pertaining to its benefit for wrinkles.
Interestingly, the patent for this ingredient discusses its possible use as an alternative to Botox injections (hence the “Myox-”portion of the trade name). The extract NeoStrata Canada includes is a protein fraction from this plant, which means you’re getting peptides, ingredients that, in theory, function as cell-communicating ingredients that can “tell” skin cells to behave in a healthier manner.
Although animal experiments were done on this ingredient and the results indicated it affected muscle contraction in a dose-dependent manner, no such studies have been done on intact human skin. In other words, there is very little to go on in terms of this being a good topical alternative to Botox injections.
Keep in mind that even if this plant worked like Botox, it would work on muscles all over your face, anywhere it was applied. Botox is injected precisely to affect specific muscles that lead to expression lines, whereas a topical alternative in a skin-care product would run the risk of causing muscles to become immobile all over the face, resulting in any number of odd-looking expressions. This has merit as an AHA moisturizer (though you’ll find better options on our Best AHA Exfoliants list), but it isn’t a viable alternative to Botox or other dermal fillers.
NeoStrata Canada At-a-Glance
Strengths: Effective AHA products with glycolic acid and, in some instances, the polyhydroxy acid gluconolactone; good, but pricey self-tanner; some well-formulated moisturizers and vitamin C serums.
Weaknesses: Irritating anti-acne products; the AHA with sunscreen products do not provide sufficient UVA protection, leaving your skin vulnerable to the sun's aging rays; most of the skin-lightening products contain an irritating amount of alcohol; jar packaging; some of the products contain such large amounts of anti-aging ingredients that they tip the scales toward irritation rather than toward youthful benefits.
NeoStrata Canada is not associated in any way with the NeoStrata brand sold in the United States, and the product selections are completely different. We asked NeoStrata Canada's owner, Canderma Pharma, Inc., why many of the products are completely different, but no one would tell us, so it remains a mystery.
What NeoStrata Canada and the U.S.-sold NeoStrata products do have in common is an abundance of well-formulated AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) exfoliants at effective concentrations and at the correct pH levels. The prices are all over the place, but for the most part you can be assured that any AHA product you purchase from NeoStrata Canada will exfoliate your skin and provide additional benefits such as improved skin texture and tone.
Exfoliants are both lines' key selling point, but they're not perfect. For example, the AHA products with sunscreen do not provide enough critical UVA protection (meaning they lack the UVA-protecting active ingredients of avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Tinsorb, ecamsule, or Mexoryl SX). That lack is a disappointment for those who were hoping that an AHA plus sunscreen would be a convenience.
NeoStrata Canada has several other intriguing products that include impressive ingredients such as peptides, retinol, vitamin C, and the company's patented AHA alternative, the polyhydroxy acid known as gluconolactone. Despite including some great ingredients, the formulas suffer from the inclusion of irritants (alcohol is a big one) and/or packaging that won't keep the beneficial ingredients stable during use.
The serums with vitamin C are worth a look, if you're curious about vitamin C. However, you'd do better looking for vitamin C in a product that also treats your skin to a variety of beneficial ingredients because one antioxidant is never enough; your skin requires much more (just like your diet) to be healthy so it can look and act younger.
Because NeoStrata Canada's products are not associated with the NeoStrata brand sold in the United States, our team called NeoStrata Canada's customer service to get additional consumer information about their products. Unfortunately, NeoStrata Canada's customer service phone number was perpetually set to voicemail, and our numerous messages (all left as regular customers, not as investigators) were never returned. After two weeks, the one email reply we did get in response to a question concerning active ingredients said simply that they couldn't give us any information. Their solution was to tell us that we would have to locate the product on store shelves to answer our own question. Either our question was too probing or NeoStrata Canada's strength is not customer service.
For more information about NeoStrata Canada, call (800) 636-3664 or visit www.neostrata.ca.
Note: All prices are in Canadian currency.
About the Experts
The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.
Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.