Anew Platinum Night Cream

1.70 fl. oz. for $ 38.00
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Brand Overview

Anew Platinum Night Cream was created for women age 60 and older, playing up the mistaken notion that age is a skin type. Of course, many women in their 60s and beyond are dealing with the issues this serum claims to fix; namely, deep lines, sagging along the jaw line and neck, and a loss of youthful contours, but so are women in their 40s and 50s. Avon’s solution for tackling these varied issues is to use patented technology said to boost the production of paxillin.

Paxillin is a type of protein involved in cell signaling pathways in skin. Essentially, it serves as a “docking protein,” which means it recruits and helps utilize cellular substances (such as enzymes) that otherwise would not know how to reach their target cells. When the correct connections occur, paxillin helps regulate how cells move about and function. What does this have to do with sagging skin?

When the correct connections occur, paxillin can potentially tell a cell (cell communication) to help make better cells. What does this have to do with sagging skin? Possibly, paxillin may improve skin’s structural support. Avon is banking that all it takes to lift sagging skin back into place is to stimulate more paxillin in your skin (Sources: www.nature.com/onc/journal/v20/n44/full/1204786a.html; and Critical Reviews in Oncognesis, volume 8, issue 4, 1997, pages 343–358).

What’s missing from Avon’s theory is that there are myriad other proteins and substances involved in cell communication as well, and there is no research proving that paxillin is the one capable of lifting skin.

Even if paxillin could somehow shore up skin, which would be a real leap of physiology, stimulating more of it or any other protein in skin doesn’t address the numerous factors (sun damage, gravity, fat pad shifting, bone loss, estrogen depletion, muscle laxity, and on and on) that cause skin to sag and lose its youthful contours.

It just isn’t possible for skin-care products, regardless of their ingredients, to lift sagging skin back to where it once was. Again, even if that were possible, where would the excess skin go? Sagging skin is about excess—lax skin that starts falling—it has little to do with support. Sagging is one area of skin aging where the cosmetics industry does not have a great solution, although companies like Avon work overtime trying to convince women otherwise.

As for the formula itself, it’s actually an effective (meaning pH-correct) AHA exfoliant in a thick cream base for dry skin. Although Avon wouldn’t reveal the percentage of the AHA glycolic acid in this product, it’s most likely in the 5–8% range, which is great, but again we’re just making an educated guess.

The problem, though, is that the AHA is the only exciting aspect of the formula, unless you like exotic plant extracts with no established skin-care benefit. Even if those plant extracts were effective, the fact that Anew Platinum Night Cream is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won’t remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients.

Jar Packaging: Yes
Tested on animals: Yes

Introducing the next generation of skin care for women 60 and beyond. A breakthrough so advanced, it reshapes anti-aging science! Platinum recaptures the look of youthful contours. THE BREAKTHROUGH TECHNOLOGY: Avons first-ever patented Paxillium Technology is formulated to boost the production of paxillin by 60%. Drapes skin in a veil of plush softness.

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycolic Acid, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Myristyl Myristate, Trioxaundecaneoic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carrageenan, Propylene Glycol Stearate, Thiodipropionic Acid, Nonenol, Sapindus Rarak Fruit Extract, Pouzolzia Pentandra Extract, Methoxybenzoyl Methylsulfonyl Oxopiperdinyl Piperazinecarboxamide, Thiazolylalanine, Punica Granatum Sterols, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Polysorbate 60, PEG-75 Stearate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Isohexadecane, Choleth-24, Maltodextrin, Chimyl Alcohol, Ceteth-24, Sorbitan Isostearate, Batyl Alcohol, Ammonium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Fragrance

Avon At-A-Glance

Strengths: Broad-spectrum sun protection from most of the SPF products; a selection of good cleansers, moisturizers, and serums; a phenomenal concealer and a handful of other excellent makeup products at bargain prices; the company provides complete ingredient lists on its Web site and offers some of the most helpful Customer Service associates in the industry.

Weaknesses: The Clearskin products are mostly irritating and poor choices for anyone battling blemishes; the Anew Clinical lineup isn't as impressive as its made out to be; an over-reliance on jar packaging diminishes the antioxidants found in many Avon moisturizers; endless, unnecessarily repetitive moisturizers with exaggerated, outlandish claims; some of the foundations look unnatural.

The last few years have been an interesting time for the world's largest direct seller. Avon is sold in 120 countries and has an enormous range of products that goes beyond skin care and makeup, all sold by five million Avon representatives racking up annual sales of over $8 billion (Source: www.avoncompany.com). Yet due to several quarters of lackluster or poor financial performance, the company announced a multiyear restructuring plan in 2006. The anticipated cost of these changes is upwards of $500 million, which includes downsizing under-performing areas and focusing on re-marketing their star products. In recent years, those key products have had "cosmeceutical" appeal, with claims that have gone beyond reality (but over-exaggerated claims sell big in the cosmetics industry).

The Anew Clinical line ushered in several products claiming to work like (or, in some instances, better than) cosmetic corrective procedures. Whether you are considering laser treatments, Botox, Thermage, collagen injections, or even liposuction, the ads for Anew Clinical were designed to make you rethink that decision.

It is definitely impressive that Avon invested $100 million on a state-of-the-art research and product development facility in New York, but despite some innovative products that compete with the best of the best (typically for much less money), no cosmetics company has (or will) produce skin-care products that rival or beat the results obtainable from medical procedures. It's admittedly easier to slather on a cream or stroke a pad over your face than to make an office call and shoulder the expense for a cosmetic corrective procedure, but in this case convenience and savings don't equal - or even come close to - comparable results. And lest we forget, despite the onslaught of so-called cosmeceutical products claiming to mimic the results such procedures provide, the number of these procedures being performed increases each year. If any of these works-like-(insert cosmetic corrective procedure here) products did work, the number of procedures would be declining, not rising.

The National Advertising Division (NAD) took issue with several claims Avon made in ads for their Anew Clinical products (Source: www.nadreview.org/default.asp?SessionID=1149178&DocType=1&CaseType=1). In some cases, Avon reworded their claims in ad reprints, while in others they "respectfully disagreed" with the NAD conclusions but agreed to take their comments into consideration for future ads. We'll see how this turns out, but, based on their current ads, the message remains that Anew Clinical products are at the forefront of making cosmetic corrective procedure results as easy as calling your Avon representative and reciting your credit card number.

As a major international cosmetics company, Avon has several initiatives in place that prove its commitment to women and the environment. Whether donating to women's health concerns (most notably breast cancer), surpassing environmental regulations, or financially supporting alternative methods to animal testing, Avon's principles are responsible and admirable. If you pay attention to the best of what they have to offer, you will not only be supporting Avon's mission to improve the lives of women but also gaining some wonderful products, making it a win-win situation.

For more information about Avon, call (800) 500-AVON or visit www.avon.com.

Avon Makeup

Avon may be viewed as a skin-care innovator, but when it comes to makeup they're more follow-the-leaders than trail blazers. Admittedly, their foundations, powders, blush, and lipsticks have smoother, more state-of-the-art textures than ever, but with few exceptions none of them are setting a precedent that other, more innovative companies are likely to follow.

You will find some outstanding Avon makeup products to consider, but perhaps due to the sheer size of the collection there are far too many mediocre products, especially among the eyeshadows, pencils, and mascaras. Given that Avon isn't as easy to obtain as comparable products at your local drug or department store, many of the makeup items end up being a tough sell. After all, who wants to go out of their way for average products? Turning to what Avon does really well, you'll find their loose and pressed powders have amazingly silky textures and natural finishes. Their blushes are wonderful, and a few of the lipsticks and foundations are definitely worth talking about with enthusiasm. Another positive point is that Avon regularly discounts their makeup, often upwards of 50% during any given campaign (Avon's campaigns run for two weeks and the specials change each time). If you shop at the right time, the best of Avon color can be yours for less than you'd pay for most low-cost drugstore makeup.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.

Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.

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