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Exuviance by NeoStrata

Age Reverse Hand Rejuvenator

1.00 kit for $ 65.00
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Age Reverse Hand Rejuvenator is a 2-product kit that includes an exfoliant peel and a hand cream. Unfortunately, both products come up short as outstanding anti-aging formulas to improve signs of aging on hands.

First up is the Age Reverse Hand Rejuvenator Peel (4.4 fl. oz.), a toner-like liquid you're directed to apply to the backs of hands with a cotton pad at night. You're advised to let the peel absorb for a minute, and then follow with a generous application of the Age Reverse Hand Rejuvenator Cream (2.6 fl. oz.). Putting on a pair of cotton gloves is also advised, as this will keep both products from getting on bed linens.

The liquid peel contains 10% citric acid (think lemon and orange juice), a lesser-known form of AHA that's often used in much lower amounts to pH-balance cosmetics. Amounts of 10% can definitely exfoliate, but can also pose a greater risk of irritating skin than tried-and-true AHAs like glycolic and lactic acids.

It's disappointing that Exuviance didn't add soothing ingredients to the peel. It's mostly water, citric acid, and a couple of hydrating ingredients. Some soothing agents would nicely reduce the potential irritation, which is better for skin.

The hand cream is housed in a squeeze tube. It contains some interesting ingredients, including skin-brightening acetyl glucosamine, but isn't very moisturizing and doesn't distinguish itself as an anti-aging powerhouse that can improve loose skin on hands (not to mention the concern of loose skin is beyond what skincare can help). The hand cream also lacks ingredients to fight brown spots.

Another disappointment: It contains several fragrance ingredients that pose a risk of irritation. It's not a product we'd advise applying after a 10% citric acid solution, but then again, we're not enthusiastic about that product, either!

Although this duo leaves hands feeling fairly smooth and soft, it doesn't do much to improve the most bothersome signs of aging on hands. Given the minimal overall benefit, the cost just shouldn't fit into anyone's budget.

References for info on citric acid above:

  • The Journal of Dermatology, January 2006, pages 16-22
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 1996, pages 75-83

Pros:
  • Leaves hands feeling smoother and softer.
  • Acetyl glucosamine can brighten dull skin.
Cons:
  • 10% citric acid is a rather harsh for exfoliation, and the peel lacks anti-irritants to counter this.
  • The peel lacks soothing agents to help reduce the irritant effects of the exfoliating ingredient.
  • Fragrant hand cream poses a risk of irritation.
Jar Packaging: No
Tested on animals: No

This two-step intensive treatment restores smoother, firmer and younger looking hands. The 10% Citric Acid Peel gently exfoliates and lifts away dull rough patches, uncovering smooth skin and preparing for the rejuvenating cream treatment that follows. Hand Rejuvenator Cream helps diminish all the signs of aging on hands - crepiness, loose skin and dark spots, restoring hydration and firmer, younger looking hands.

AGE REVERSE Hand Rejuvenator Peel:Aqua/Water/Eau, Citric Acid, Arginine, Ammonium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Chlorphenesin, Methylparaben. AGE REVERSE Hand Rejuvenator Cream:Aqua/Water/Eau, Acetyl Glucosamine, Cyclopentasiloxane, Triethyl Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Ethoxydiglycol, PEG-100 Stearate, Nylon-12, Isostearic Acid, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Tocopheryl (Vitamin E) Acetate, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Palmitoyl Glycine, Dimethiconol, Isopropyl Myristate, PEG-40 Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Disodium EDTA, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Bisulfite, Carbomer, Ammonium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Isobutyl Methyl Tetrahydropyranol, Methyl Decenol, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Ethylene Brassylate, Caramel, CI 19140 (Yellow 5).

Exuviance At-A-Glance

Strengths: Huge assortment of AHA and PHA products, all with correct pH to exfoliate; sunscreens that include AHA and/or PHA at right pH and provide reliable broad-spectrum sun protection; good cleansers; some excellent serums and lightweight moisturizers; the Exuviance makeup products are worth a try if you need full coverage with sufficient sun protection.

Weaknesses: No BHA products (better for blemish-prone skin or for those who can't tolerate AHAs or PHA); no topical disinfectants (a basic for those with acne); all hydroquinone products have at least one major negative; irritating toners; jar packaging; potentially problematic self-tanning products; lip balms contain irritating spearmint oil; most NeoCeuticals products are terrible.

Exfoliation is the name of the game for this line! The original NeoStrata and Exuviance brands were created by Drs. Eugene Van Scott and Ruey Yu, the two researchers who own the original patent (actually, they hold over 80 patents) for the use of glycolic acid (AHA) in relation to its ability to diminish wrinkles, among other capabilities. Few lines offer reliable and effective formulations for exfoliation, so those that do deserve your attention. Well-formulated AHA products are those that have an effective concentration of AHAs and a base with an acidic pH that allows them to have maximum benefit. The exfoliation that AHAs provide reduces the thickness of the skin's outer layer, helping skin to quickly look smoother and feel softer, which in turn can solve many skin problems, including dryness, blemishes, sun damage, and skin discolorations. A good deal of research also shows that AHAs can help increase the thickness of the underlying layers of skin, improve skin structure, increase collagen production, and allow penetration of other skin-care ingredients. Moreover, NeoStrata is one of the only companies to sell a range of reliable sunscreens that also contain effective AHA formulations.

Both the NeoStrata (these products are reviewed separately) and Exuviance lines contain glycolic acid (AHA), but even more of these products contain a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) called gluconolactone (also patented by Scott and Yu), and for which similar claims are made. Gluconolactone is supposed to be gentler and longer acting than glycolic acid, and its delayed penetration is attributed to its larger molecular size. However, according to an article in Cosmetic Dermatology (July 1998), the skin can't tell the difference between the various effective AHAs, and the possibility of gluconolactone staying on the surface of skin longer than other AHAs did not prove out. So in terms of exfoliation and potential side effects, PHA ends up being as good as AHA. Gluconolactone may be slightly less irritating for some skin types, but this isn't quite the magic bullet for exfoliation NeoStrata claims, though it does indeed work when properly formulated (but so do glycolic and lactic acids). Another PHA NeoStrata uses is lactobionic acid. However, there is no definitive, published research establishing it as an effective alternative to (or partner for) other AHAs or BHA.

Beyond the numerous products that exfoliate (which is NeoStrata's main selling point) there's not much to get excited about, especially for what the company is charging. And it's upsetting that a dermatologist-driven, physician-sold line still has weak spots such as the occasional inclusion of irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin and, believe it or not, a sunscreen that leaves skin vulnerable to UVA damage. NeoStrata has their act together when it comes to AHAs and PHA, but that tunnel vision has, in some respects, kept them from branching out to offer a better assortment of state-of-the-art products.

For more information about Exuviance, call (800) 225-9411 or visit www.neostrata.com.

Caution: Keep in mind that skin needs only one reliable exfoliant at a time. Exuviance sells so many good ones, you may be tempted to double (or triple) up, but doing so can backfire and be more irritating than helpful.

NeoStrata Exuviance Makeup

The small assortment of Exuviance makeup products takes the "makeup as skin-care" approach by including gluconolactone in all the makeup products. Although Exuviance makes much ado about gluconolactone being a gentler AHA alternative with advanced hydrating and antioxidant ability, information presented in Cosmetic Dermatology (July 1998) doesn't bear this out. That is, it's hard to see any better possibilities for gluconolactone than for the older, mainstay AHAs such as glycolic acid and lactic acid. What's not discussed are the effects on skin when multiple products containing gluconolactone are used. Although its reduced rate of penetration might make it less irritating, the fact remains that skin does not need multiple products for sufficient exfoliation.

The most encouraging news is that each Exuviance makeup product includes an effective sunscreen. As far as anti-aging goes, that feature is far more essential than the next AHA alternative. Exuviance makeup has changed hardly at all since it was last reviewed. The three foundations still do not offer a middle-of-the-road option when it comes to coverage. You're left to choose between the opaque CoverBlend makeups or the sheer Skin Caring option. The CoverBlend Concealing Treatment Makeup SPF 20 is truly in a class by itself when it comes to traditional full-coverage makeup, and it's highly recommended if you need significant coverage for discolored areas on the face or body. The tube concealer also offers full coverage (though the colors are not the most neutral around), and the loose powder is a fine, albeit overpriced, option.

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The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.

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