Absolue Ultimate Bx Replenishing and Restructuring Serum

1.00 fl. oz. for $ 155.00
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Brand Overview

Absolue Ultimate Bx Replenishing and Restructuring Serum promises to be a breakthrough for mature skin due to its supposed clarifying power. Those with dull, lackluster skin tones will see radiance returned, but that's due to the mica particles in this product that simply add a soft shine to skin, which is about makeup rather than skin care.

Lancome never explains exactly what ingredients comprise their Pro-Xylane complex, but it is supposedly "highly concentrated" in this serum. It could be they're referring to the wild yam, soy, and algae in this product, but these ingredients are barely present (there's much more fragrance than showcased plant extracts), so "highly concentrated" is clearly a marketing concept, not reality.

The only potentially helpful ingredient in the product for possibly "clarifying" skin is kojic acid. Lancome doesn't scrimp on this ingredient, and it is indeed known for inhibiting melanin production. However, it is not considered as efficacious as hydroquinone, especially when the latter is combined with tretinoin. Moreover, other research indicates that kojic acid is not as effective as other potential skin-lightening agents (Sources: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, December 2006, pages 1048–1065; and The Journal of Biological Chemistry, May 2002, pages 16340–16344).

Kojic acid is also prone to deterioration on exposure to light and air unless it is stably packaged, which is the case with this serum. Although it's rather one-note, this serum has the potential to lighten discolorations. But keep in mind, there are several other options (including prescription hydroquinone products) that stand a greater chance of producing superior results, and for less money. The overall formula of this serum makes it best for normal to slightly dry skin.

Note: This serum is dispensed via a dropper applicator. Although not the ideal method to dispense a serum that contains light- and air-sensitive ingredients, sometimes this type of packaging is necessary due to formulary requirements. When that’s the case, the goal is to keep the bottle opening as small as possible, the bottle should be opaque or specially coated to protect the contents from light, and you should use the serum up within three months of opening.

Jar Packaging: No
Tested on animals: Yes

Breakthrough for mature skin. Pro-Xylane plus clarifying power: Resilience and luminosity restored, Absolue replenishment. Visible Restructuring Power: Highly concentrated Pro-Xylane acts deep in skins surface at the fundamental matrix restoring essential moisture from within. Combined with the replenishing Bio-Network of Wild Yam, Soy, Brown Algae, and Barley, this intensive serum improves resiliency, visibly reduces the appearance of mature wrinkles and helps tighten slackened skin. Ultimate Clarifying Power: Kojic acid, a highly potent clarifying ingredient helps reveal a more uniform, radiant complexion.

Water, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Kojic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide/Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Fragrance, Acrylates Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Mica, Methylparaben, Chlorphenesin, Isopropyl Myristate, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Titanium Dioxide, Paraffin, Linalool, Cholesterol, Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract, Hexyldecanol, Limonene, Adenosine, Dimethiconol, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Padina Pavonica Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Citronellol, Hordeum Vulgare (Malt) Extract, Hydroxyapatite, Red 4, Red 33

Lancome At-A-Glance

Strengths: Some good cleansers; well-formulated scrubs; foundations with beautiful shades for almost every skin color; great concealers; several outstanding mascaras; the Artliner liquid eyeliners perform well; impressive powder eyeshadows; some fantastic lipsticks and automatic lipliner.

Weaknesses: Expensive for what amounts to mostly mediocre to below-average skincare products; lacking in effective treatments for blemishes or fading skin discolorations; average toners; moisturizers that are short on including state-of-the-art ingredients; jar packaging; some foundations with sunscreen do not provide complete UVA protection.

French flair, free gifts with purchase, constant magazine ads, and attractive packaging impel women to seek out the Lancome counter. Once you're there, though, unless you're captured by the enticing claims, the skin-care products are resoundingly dull, and we mean really, really dull (the makeup is a different story). With new research and developments in skin care many cosmetics companies typically improve their formulas, even if just in a small way. Thats not the case with Lancome, which tends to raise their prices while producing lackluster, ordinary formulas with little benefit for skin.

Even more shocking is that their most expensive skin-care items tend to be the most disappointing, usually for what they lack rather than for what they contain. It's startling to realize that their priciest moisturizer is remarkably similar to dozens of other Lancome creams priced more reasonably (but still too high when you consider what you're getting for the money). It seems that all it takes to justify the excessive prices is a good story based around a rare ingredient and claims of delivering a younger look. What a shame so many consumers are taken in by this kind of marketing mumbo jumbo.

L'Oreal-owned Lancome, along with L'Oreal's own skin-care products sold at the drugstore, has fallen well behind their competition. For all their lofty claims and beautiful models, many other companies leave them in the dust. Most of the Lauder companies (Clinique, Estee Lauder), along with Dove, and Olay have skin-care formularies that consistently outperform those of Lancome and L'Oreal in terms of what substantiated research has shown is necessary to have healthy, more wrinkle- and age-resistant skin. Lancome claims to understand women, and they certainly know how to entice them with pretty packaging and scientific-sounding claims. It would be far better if they had an intimate understanding of what it really takes for skin to look its best and function optimally.

The biggest improvement Lancome has made is that almost all of their sunscreens now include the right UVA-protecting ingredients. Who knows why it took them so long to get this straightened out (L'Oreal is no stranger to this issue, as they have developed and patented new UVA filters throughout the years), but it is now easier than ever to find a reliable sunscreen from Lancome. Given their prominence and presence in department stores around the world, Lancome isn't easy to ignore. Our suggestion is to look beyond most of the skin care and focus on what they do best: makeup (especially foundations and mascaras).

Note: Unless mentioned otherwise, all Lancome products contain fragrance.

For more information about Lancome, owned by L'Oreal, call (800) 526-2663 or visit www.lancome.com.

Lancome Makeup

L'Oreal-owned Lancome is a stellar, French-bred collection of makeup that remains the best reason to shop this line. Because most of Lancome's skin-care products have problematic elements (be it jar packaging, insufficient sun protection, or dated formulas), it is a relief to find that, for the most part, the colorful side of their business has more than its share of innovative products. We enjoyed the fact that no matter where we shopped, Lancome's counter personnel were friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful. There's a lot to keep track of, and Lancome deserves credit for keeping their salespeople so well informed.

If you're looking for a force to reckon with for foundations, Lancome is a must-see. They continue to offer some of the most elegant, silky formulas anywhere and in a color range that is overwhelmingly neutral, whether your skin is porcelain or ebony. The only troubling aspect is that most of Lancome's foundations with sunscreen do not contain adequate UVA protection or the SPF rating is too low. Lancome obviously knows about the risks with these issues (after all, they market ecamsule, their version of the UVA-protecting ingredient Mexoryl SX, and brag about its UVA range). And considering that, we are not recommending as many of their foundations as we have in previously have. Beyond this major gripe, you will discover that Lancome has a well-deserved reputation for their fantastic mascaras, and that their latest powders and eyeshadows apply with a silkiness that makes them gratifying to work with. The rest of the makeup encompasses many valid choices, but before you commit to Lancome, consider the similar options available for less from sister companies L'Oreal and Maybelline New York. Striking a balance among the best of each of these lines will give you first-class makeup that beautifies without breaking the bank.

Note: Lancome is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Lancome does not conduct animal testing for its products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they dont test on animals unless required by law. Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Beautypedia Research Team.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia team consists of skin care and makeup experts personally trained by the original Cosmetics Cop and best-selling beauty author, Paula Begoun. We’re fascinated by skin care and makeup products and thrilled when they meet or exceed our expectations, but we’re also disappointed when they fail to perform as claimed, are wildly overpriced, or contain ingredients scientific research has proven can hurt skin.

Our mission has always been to help you find the best products for your skin, no matter your budget or preferences. Beautypedia’s thorough and insightful reviews cut through the hype and provide reliable recommendations for all ages, skin types, and skin tones.

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