Among all of the Youth Code products, this serum has the most striking formulary similarity to Lancome’s Genifique. Specifically, it is almost identical to their Genifique Youth Activating Concentrate, which costs three times as much as this Youth Code serum.
Before we discuss the “breakthrough claims” and the technology behind this product, you need to know that it is not preferred to any of the serums on our Best Serums list. It contains some intriguing ingredients and has a silky-soft finish, but there are some problematic ingredients (discussed below) that make this a hindrance for aging skin.
The crux of Youth Code is the claim that it stimulates genes in your skin that are supposedly responsible for its regenerating power.
It is absolutely true that there are genes in our skin responsible for generating proteins. These proteins create antioxidant pathways that protect skin from intrinsic (internal) and external signs of aging. As we age (actually, as we accumulate more sun damage from years of exposure), these genes become less able to “express” themselves in a healthy manner. That leads to oxidation within the skin and a decreased ability for the gene-generated proteins and enzymes to handle oxidative stress. The result of these deficiencies is damaged collagen, inflammation, and unwanted changes to skin texture, such as roughness, increased sensitivity, and, yes, wrinkles (Sources: Planta Medica, October 2008, pages 1548–1559; Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research, February 2008, pages 79–88; and Free Radical Biology & Medicine, August 2008, pages 385–395).
L’Oreal’s solution is a yeast ingredient known as bifida ferment lysate. The problem is that there’s no research proving that this specific form of yeast has any anti-aging, regenerating, or gene-stimulating activity when applied to skin. You’d think that after 10 years of research L’Oreal would publish their findings, but they haven’t. Of course, there’s also the issue that treating aging skin depends on more than a single ingredient or even one group of ingredients. And what about the dozens of other anti-wrinkle products L'Oreal sells that don't contain this yeast? Do those not work as well even though they make similar claims?
Getting back to the bifida ferment lysate, there is limited research showing that yeast ferment filtrate (a compound different from bifida ferment lysate) reduces oxidative skin damage in the presence of UV light, but this research also showed that many other antioxidants have a similar effect (Sources: Archives of Dermatological Research, April 2008, pages S51–S56; and Journal of Dermatological Science, June 2006, pages 249–257).
L’Oreal states that this product took 10 years of research, but given the formula they’ve created, that’s hard to believe. Beyond the bifida ferment lysate, you’re getting a mix of slip agents with alcohol and a tiny amount of cell-communicating ingredients, including peptides (Lancome’s Genifique serum omits the peptides, which is odd because the more expensive product should contain these costly ingredients). The rest of the formula is mostly preservatives, stabilizers, and fragrance.
There is more alcohol in this product (you'll smell it as you apply this) than there is beneficial ingredients, and that’s not good for skin. Alcohol in this amount is irritating, causes free-radical damage, and prevents healthy collagen from being formed.
NOTE: Fashion magazine ads for this product list it as "Youth Code Serum Intense" or "Serum Intense". It is the same product.
After 10 years of research, L’Oréal scientists unlock the code of skin’s youth by discovering a specific set of genes that are responsible for skin’s natural power of regeneration. 10x more concentrated this daily activating serum has the power to instantly hydrate and transform skin to be visibly smoother, rested and youthfully luminous. L’Oréal Advanced Research has selected an ultra-penetrating silky serum texture to deliver instant skin formation. For best results, use Serum Intense in conjunction with all Youth Code products to help increase skin’s power of regeneration so it regains the qualities of young skin.
Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Alcohol Denatured, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Adenosine, Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Chrysin, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, Fragrance
L'Oreal Paris At-A-Glance
Strengths: Budget-friendly prices; good makeup removers; wide assortment of self-tanning options; one of the best, most comprehensive makeup collections at the drugstore, with superb options in almost every category; the mascaras are a tough act to follow.
Weaknesses: Jar packaging hinders some of the skincare formulas; many of their skincare formulas contain problematic amounts of fragrance and/or other irritants; exaggerated anti-aging claims.
L'Oreal's extensive makeup collection retains its stature as one of the better selections at the drugstore, though they have stiff competition from Revlon and, in some cases, sister company Maybelline New York. In recent years L'Oreal has made significant strides with foundation shades, powder textures, concealers, and, of course, superlative mascaras that rarely fail to impress. Their lipsticks are excellent and you will find many L'Oreal makeup products have a Lancome counterpart, and that the differences are minor—if there are any at all.
L'Oreal's displays in many drugstores reflect better-organized products and shade categories (though testers are still scarce). Given the number of lipsticks they sell, it only makes sense to put them in color families so consumers have a better shopping experience. Their True Match products are also sensibly laid out, but the rest of the foundations aren't as organized, likely due to the smaller selection of shades. Speaking of foundations, L'Oreal has made further strides by offering more that provide sufficient UVA protection. Revlon still has the edge for consistently launching impressive foundations with sunscreen, but at least L'Oreal is (finally) catching up.
The bottom line is that every category of L'Oreal’s makeup has some winning (and in some cases, benchmark-setting) products.
Unfortunately, despite the brands’ enormous presence in the beauty industry, L'Oreal's moisturizers and treatment products are a nearly all unremarkable and repetitive. When it comes to moisturizers or serums, just about anything from Dove, Olay, Neutrogena, or Aveeno is preferred. L'Oreal does well with most of their cleansers, along with scrubs and self-tanning products, but given the widespread availability and financial resources of this line, they could be doing so much more. The good news is their makeup has made major strides and now ranks as the best overall color collection at the drugstore—imagine the results if their skin care followed suit.
The Beautypedia and Paula’s Choice Research teams have one mission: To help you find the best products for your skin, whether they’re from Paula’s Choice or another brand. By combining efforts, we’re able to share scientific research and remain committed to the highest standards based on our decades of experience objectively reviewing thousands upon thousands of skincare and makeup formularies in all price ranges.
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