The Method: Nourish is a moisturizer that contains a nice array of plant-based moisturizing ingredients, fatty acids and other skin reparatives. This is a good option for dry to very dry skin not prone to breakouts, thanks to its blend of shea butter and emollients. The mix of silicones and moisturizing agents provides a rich feel to this cream, which is substantial on skin. There is a lesser amount of fragrance (including nasturtium), but not to a degree that would be a problem for most.
With all of those good points, why did this earn an AVERAGE? Unfortunately, Lancer chose to house this product in a jar, and it's a shame. Water-based moisturizers in jars are money pits for a few reasons (primarily the breakdown of ingredients due to air exposure + the hygiene issue of dipping fingers or objects into the product). We discuss the details on jar packaging in the More Info section.
Lancer also included the trade ingredient Hexapeptide-48 HCI, which is a growth hormone. We're usually cautionary about growth hormones in cosmetics due to the lack of long-term data on their effects, but there is only a slight amount here (and the jar packaging means it won't remain stable anyway).
We'd recommend considering the alternatives that we recommend in our list of Best Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime), all of which are packaged to protect their ingredients from routine exposure to air and light.
The fact that this cream is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818-829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271-288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197-203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1-32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
This potent anti-aging treatment helps skin retain moisture and boost its oxygen level while aiding cell function and metabolism. Skin is nourished for a visibly renewed, youthful glow.
Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Squalane, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Phosphate, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice Extract, Tropaeolum Majus Extract, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Olea Europea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hexapeptide-48 HCI, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Phytosterols, Raspberry Seed Oil/Tocopheryl Succinate Aminopropanediol Esters, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Carbomer, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Isostearrate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Ethlhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol, Fragrance (Parfum), Limonene.
Strengths: Has a good option for 10% vitamin C treatment; Their 10% AHA moisturizer is a worth considering for those who have dry skin.
Weaknesses: Expensive; some products with light- and air-sensitive ingredients are packaged in jars; overly abrasive scrub.
Dr. Harold Lancer is a Beverly Hills dermatologist with celebrity clientele, two credentials that pique the interest of many women interested in skin care. His specialty is cosmetic rejuvenation and, like many dermatologists before him, Lancer has his own line of products: Lancer Dermatology Skincare.
Lancer's skin-care line is built around four steps: polish, cleanse, nourish, and protect. According to Lancer, these steps work for every skin type or aging concern. The polish (i.e. scrub) step involves applying a fairly abrasive, alkaline scrub before cleansing. Lancer's idea is that the polish loosens soil and cellular debris, which the cleanser you apply next will easily wash away.
After you cleanse, you're supposed to nourish skin with an anti-aging moisturizer. During the day, you're advised to protect your skin with sunscreen and, occasionally, if needed, you can apply a treatment product (such as a vitamin C cream).
Although Lancer's method is being hailed as unique or somehow different, it's ultimately nothing new to the skin-care industry: Exfoliation is necessary for younger-looking skin (but scrubs aren’t the best way to get this benefit), sun protection is vital, and a moisturizer loaded with skin-repairing ingredients helps replace what young skin produces naturally before it becomes damaged.
The polish (scrub) before the cleansing step is a new twist, but it's actually a problem if you're wearing makeup. Scrubbing skin before you remove your makeup will grind the makeup deeper into your pores, making it harder for the cleanser to remove. If anything, you should cleanse first, polish second.
Although Lancer's method is being hailed as unique or somehow different, it's about as interesting as white bread. If anything, it's a mix of dated and modern concepts built on information that researchers have known about for years: Exfoliation is necessary for younger-looking skin (but scrubbing isn't the best way to get this benefit), sun protection is vital, and a moisturizer loaded with skin-repairing ingredients helps replace what young skin produces naturally before it becomes damaged.
Unfortunately, Lancer’s scrubs are all alkaline (high pH) and contain overly abrasive scrub ingredients and fragrance extracts that skin doesn’t need. The nighttime moisturizers are all packaged in jars (exposing their beneficial ingredients to air), and the one sunscreen in the line is alcohol based (which isn’t a good thing for skin, as we’ll discuss in the product review).
There are some highlights in the line, such as good options for a 10% vitamin C treatment and AHA exfoliant, but ultimately you don’t need to spend this much to have healthy, younger-looking skin. In fact, because many of Lancer's products contain one or more problematic ingredients, you may end up thinking, “why bother?”
For more information about Lancer Dermatology Skincare, call (310) 278-8444 or visit http://www.lancerskincare.com/.
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