Perhaps the most telling trait about this serum is how much it has in common with other serums sold by Estee Lauder–owned brands (La Mer is owned by Estee Lauder). The difference, beyond La Mer’s eyebrow-raising prices, is that there are less expensive yet similar serums from Estee Lauder, Clinique, and Bobbi Brown (all Lauder companies) that have superior formulas. This is chiefly because the latter serums omit the alcohol that is present in La Mer’s The Radiant Serum, thus sparing your skin all of its potentially damaging effects...so much for the company's "miracle broth".
This water-based serum contains a very good range of plant-based antioxidants, and lesser, but still potentially helpful, amounts of skin-repairing and cell-communicating ingredients. These are the hallmarks of a great anti-aging serum, but the alcohol and eucalyptus oil (coupled with this serum’s price) is a deal you shouldn’t get involved in.
As for the claims that this serum transforms how your skin reflects light, it’s all marketing wordplay. In reality, this serum’s hydrating ingredients create a smooth surface that will change the way light reflects off your skin, just as any well-formulated moisturizer that costs far less will. When skin is smoothed, it automatically looks more radiant, and that’s great. But the alcohol will negate this serum’s hydrating benefit. In short, you don’t have to spend nearly this much or expose your skin to these irritants to gain youthful benefit.
Alcohol is not the ingredient you want to see in any skin-care products, including those for fighting the signs of aging. It causes dryness and free-radical damage, and impairs the skin’s ability to heal. The irritation it causes damages healthy collagen production and can stimulate oil production at the base of the pore, making oily skin worse (Sources: “Skin Care—From the Inside Out and Outside In,”Tufts Daily, April 1, 2002; eMedicine Journal, May 8, 2002, volume 3, number 5, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, February 2001, pages 25–27; Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, pages 12–16; and http://pubs.niaaa.nih.gov/publications/arh27-4/277-284.htm).
This exquisite seaborne treatment instantly illuminates skin as it visibly smoothes, plumps, firms and creates a more even skin tone. Reigniting skin's natural ability to reflect and transmit light, The Radiant Serum delivers radiance beyond compare.
Declustered Water, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, PEG-75, Alcohol Denat, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Yeast Extract, Citrus Reticulate (Tangerine) Peel Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Powder, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Siegsbeckia Orientalis (St. Paul's Wort) Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Selaginela Tamariscina (Spike Moss) Extract, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Fruit Juice, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glycereth-26, Micrococcus Lysate, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile), Linolenic Acid, Caffeine, Sucrose, Coenzyme A, PEG-8, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oleth-5, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Squalane, Oleth-10 Phosphate, Sorbitol, Ergothioneine, Tourmaline, Octadecenedioic Acid, Glycerin, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ceteth-24 Carbomer, Hexylene Glycol, Linalyl Acetate, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid Cyclodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide Disodium EDTA, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol, Green 5
La Mer At-A-Glance
Strengths: Effective cleansers; a supremely good powder; the makeup brushes.
Weaknesses: Outlandish claims; ultra-pricey; several products contain irritants, including eucalyptus oil and lime; no AHA or BHA products; jar packaging weakens some of the anti-aging ingredients; the skincare tends to do more harm than good.
The original Creme De La Mer was launched by Estee Lauder as a miracle product for wrinkles based on research from Max Huber, an aerospace physicist. How does space technology relate to wrinkles? Well, it doesn't, although it may lend an air of expertise (if you can do rocket science, the assumption is you can do anything). Huber at one time suffered severe chemical burns in an accident. Then, according to the Max Huber Laboratories, after 12 years and 6,000 experiments, he came up with a special cream. The company refers to its key element as "miracle broth," and it's said to take months to concoct and ferment. In this case, the process that goes into making La Mer products gets as much talk as the product itself. So be prepared for formulary information that sounds a lot like alchemy.
Huber's experiments took place over 30 years ago. Given that none of his self-experimentation was ever documented or published, there is no way to know what Huber was using before, what was unique about this formula, or what went wrong with the 5,999 or so other experiments that preceded the final discovery. It turns out that the original Creme De La Mer was, and still is, almost exclusively algae, mineral oil, Vaseline, thickening agents, and lime extract. Not very exciting stuff, but most of it will make dry skin look and feel better, although the jar packaging doesn't provide much hope for the algae. The notion that anything in this product can be a miracle for burns—or any aspect of skin care—is strictly folklore and has nothing to do with rocket science or even cosmetic chemistry for that matter.
Given the cult status the original Creme De La Mer enjoys, it's hardly surprising that Lauder has spun an entire skin-care line out of a product that was initially sold as the be-all and end-all antiwrinkle solution (in jar packaging, no less, which would have the effect of rendering the algae—the cornerstone of the product—unstable). In the world of skin care, if one product sells well, then other related products that carry the same name will experience increased sales, too. With today's expanded range of La Mer products, Estee Lauder has added a slew of hocus-pocus ingredients to the continuing list of concoctions that were never in Huber's original formula. So much for the credibility of that mythic story, because it obviously wasn’t good enough to be repeated.
These supplementary products contain malachite, a range of other minerals, diamond powder, something called "declustered" water, and another semiprecious stone, tourmaline (which is now being downplayed in favor of the semiprecious stone du jour, malachite). It's almost too outlandish to even begin explaining, but the declustered water deserves some elucidation. Before reading on, keep in mind that if these products were the ultimate for the Estee Lauder company, why are they still selling all those other anti-aging products in the dozen or so other lines they own and retail just around the cosmetics counter next door?
Supposedly, the La Mer products are worth the money because most of them contain declustered water. Declustered water is water manufactured to have smaller ions, which supposedly makes the water penetrate the skin better. There is no proof that this synthetic water does what the company claims, but even if the water could penetrate better, is that better for skin? There is definitely research indicating that too much water in the skin can make it plump, but that could also prevent cell turnover and renewal, and inhibit the skin's immune response. Either way, skin likes taking on water—it plumps to a thousand times its normal size just from taking a bath—and it doesn't need special water to help the process along, nor would that be good for skin in the long run. Moreover, if the declustered water were indeed capable of carrying La Mer's miracle broth further into skin, that would only make matters worse because some of the components in this broth are documented irritants.
Other gimmicky ingredients La Mer products contain are fish cartilage, algae (explained in the Creme De La Mer review), and the rarefied blue algae, which La Mer claims can "biologically lift" skin due to its nutrient-dense nature. While all of these may have some water-binding properties, the fiction that any of them could have an impact on wrinkles is not substantiated in any published scientific study.
For more information about La Mer, owned by Estee Lauder, call (866) 850-9400 or visit www.cremedelamer.com.
La Mer Makeup
Sold as Skincolor, La Mer's small but tidy makeup collection carries over the major miracle claims that their flawed skin-care products espouse. If you stop by the counter to explore these products, you'll hear all about their powers to "transform the complexion" with a special blue algae ferment and optical-diffusing gemstones (a concept Aveda and Estee Lauder also play up, but not to the extent La Mer does). We wouldn't count on algae or gemstones for any amount of transformation, especially given the small amounts of each included in the cosmetic products below. What you will find are two foundations with excellent sunscreen and a few more skin-care perks than are typically seen in liquid makeup. Does that make them worth the money? Not from my perspective, because you can find similar products that perform just as well. However, if you're already sold on La Mer, most of the items below won't disappoint and the shade selection is mostly impressive. Still, for the money, your face won't look any better than if you had applied makeup that's available at a fraction of this cost.
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