Citrus, peppermint, and ginger oils are ingredients that smell great but don't belong in a skin-care product because each poses a strong risk of irritation and that causes collagen to break down and hurts the skin's ability to heal. Unfortunately, all of those fragrant oils make an appearance in this pricey cleansing lotion for dry skin, and keep it from earning a recommendation.
There's a lot to like about this cleanser, as it contains some proven ingredients for dry, tight skin and ably removes all types of makeup with minimal effort. Its milky texture feels good, but the fragrant oils make this cleanser anything but gentle, so the claims are misleading.
Because of the plant oils this cleanser contains, it doesn't rinse completely without leaving a bit behind. That can be advantageous for dry skin, but not when part of what's left behind are fragrant plant oils known to be irritating. Also, contrary to the claim, cleanser shouldn't be tissued off. What an antiquated way to remove makeup because repeatedly pulling at skin damages elastin and will cause skin to sag faster than it would normally.
One more comment: The "Kateceuticals" name may make you think this sub-brand of products is cosmeceutical in nature, meaning the products go beyond regular skin care to somehow convey pharmaceutical benefits. That's not what happens. None of the ingredients in this cleanser are pharmaceutical or more advanced than what's seen in lots of other cleansing lotions, most of which don't charge this much or contain the mix of problematic ingredients this one does!
Cleanses skin with a soothing blend of powerful Vitamins, Orange Blossom, and Orange Peel Extracts that leave skin feeling moisturized and fresh. A creamy blend of antioxidants and fruit extracts is designed to clean, hydrate, and brighten the look of the complexion. This sulfate-free cleanser is so gentle that it can be rinsed or simply tissued off.
Water/Aqua/Eau, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Glycerin, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Xylitol, Xanthan Gum, Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Ceramide 2, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Peel Oil, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Oil, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, Citral
Kate Somerville At-A-Glance
Strengths: Provides complete ingredient lists on their website; effective Anti Bac Clearing Lotion for acne; good eczema cream; some fantastic serums and moisturizers chock-full of beneficial ingredients.
Weaknesses: Expensive; irritating cleansers and scrubs; several products contain irritating ingredients with no proven benefit for skin; disappointing CC cream.
The woman behind this line is a Los Angeles–based aesthetician who owns her own clinic, which specializes not only in aesthetic services but also in cosmetic corrective procedures involving injections (dermal fillers), lasers, Botox, and the like. The clinic is staffed with a doctor and nurses, which is definitely what you want if you're considering services beyond a facial or a massage.
The selling points of this line are Somerville's years of experience in the aesthetics industry and her allegedly devoted celebrity clientele. As such, her products and famous clientele get press in the pages of fashion magazines, which explains why we routinely get asked about this skin-care line. Somerville herself is every bit as attractive as her star clients, and the information on her Web site is presented in such a way that you sincerely believe she has your skin's best interests in mind. And wouldn't you want to trust your skin's needs to a professional who also tends to celebrities?
Knowing all these details, we were anticipating that most of the products bearing Somerville's name would be state-of-the-art slam dunks. Alas, many of them are far afield from that level of formulation. When it comes to giving skin what it needs to function as healthily and normally as possible (and, at these prices, that's what you should expect), this line is, unfortunately, hit or miss. What Somerville knows about giving an amazing facial is one thing, but she clearly missed the research that proves how problematic several of the plant oils that she uses can be. A professional concerned with the health of her clients' skin shouldn't be formulating products with cinnamon, grapefruit, and lavender oils, among others.
If we were one of Somerville's clients, we'd certainly take her to task for that oversight, but we'd also want to know why she offers only one sunscreen and doesn't offer any effective AHA or BHA exfoliants. A discussion of advanced skin science and state-of-the-art ingredients is not sufficient if your product line has gaps: limited sun protection options, no reliable exfoliants, no non-drying cleansers, and a complete lack of options to treat skin discolorations (pigment irregularities, unlike blackheads, cannot be manually extracted, which makes the absence of a skin lightening product an issue).
This product line may not be the one you want to build your skin-care routine around, but there are some exceptional products. Of all the aesthetician-backed lines we've reviewed, none come as close to providing the level of formulary excellence of many of Somerville's moisturizers and serums. They're pricey, but if you're going to spend in excess for skin-care products, you should be doing so on products that stand a very good chance of markedly improving your skin’s appearance. We are curious to see how this product line will expand and (hopefully) improve over the years. The current mishmash of awesome and awful products makes it risky to shop this line blindly (or on the sole rationale of a celebrity endorsement), but with careful consideration to avoid irritants you can find some products of value. Hopefully, she will expand the line to fill in the current gaps (especially for sun protection) and eliminate the irritants.
For more information about Kate Somerville, now owned by Unilever, call (800) 984-5283 or visit www.katesomerville.com.
The Beautypedia and Paula’s Choice Research teams have one mission: To help you find the best products for your skin, whether they’re from Paula’s Choice or another brand. By combining efforts, we’re able to share scientific research and remain committed to the highest standards based on our decades of experience objectively reviewing thousands upon thousands of skincare and makeup formularies in all price ranges.
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