Kate Somerville says this cleanser is the right start to an anti-acne skincare routine, but because its good ingredients can't work as intended (and because of the inclusion of a not-so-good-ingredient), it doesn't make the grade.
The cleansing action comes mostly from gentle detergent cleansers. It also includes glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids, which may seem impressive. When used in a well formulated leave-on product, they can work beautifully to gently exfoliate skin. However, AHA and BHA ingredients are far less effective for exfoliation, if at all, in a cleanser or scrub. That’s because they are rinsed off before they can begin to work. If you are hoping for this cleanser to provide exfoliating benefits, think again.
Then there's the issue that this contains tangerine peel oil, which has the potential to aggravate skin. True, it's rinsed off quickly, but the potential to sensitize skin remains. Give this one a pass, and check out one of the better options on our list of Best Cleansers instead.
Contains gentle detergent cleansing agents.
The glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids don't have time to act as exfoliants.
Contains skin-aggravating tangerine oil.
Washing away makeup, residue, and excess oil with Detox Daily Cleanser is the first step in restoring clarity to acne-prone skin. It also ensures that the products that follow will work most effectively. This rejuvenating formula removes impurities and leaves skin feeling cleaner, brighter, smoother, and softer.
Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Phytic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Butylene Glycol, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Sodium PCA, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Cyanocobalamin, Urea, Panthenol, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Sodium Riboflavin Phosphate, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Limonene.
Kate Somerville At-A-Glance
Strengths: Provides complete ingredient lists on their website; effective Anti Bac Clearing Lotion for acne; good eczema cream; some fantastic serums and moisturizers chock-full of beneficial ingredients.
Weaknesses: Expensive; irritating cleansers and scrubs; several products contain irritating ingredients with no proven benefit for skin; disappointing CC cream.
The woman behind this line is a Los Angeles–based aesthetician who owns her own clinic, which specializes not only in aesthetic services but also in cosmetic corrective procedures involving injections (dermal fillers), lasers, Botox, and the like. The clinic is staffed with a doctor and nurses, which is definitely what you want if you're considering services beyond a facial or a massage.
The selling points of this line are Somerville's years of experience in the aesthetics industry and her allegedly devoted celebrity clientele. As such, her products and famous clientele get press in the pages of fashion magazines, which explains why we routinely get asked about this skin-care line. Somerville herself is every bit as attractive as her star clients, and the information on her Web site is presented in such a way that you sincerely believe she has your skin's best interests in mind. And wouldn't you want to trust your skin's needs to a professional who also tends to celebrities?
Knowing all these details, we were anticipating that most of the products bearing Somerville's name would be state-of-the-art slam dunks. Alas, many of them are far afield from that level of formulation. When it comes to giving skin what it needs to function as healthily and normally as possible (and, at these prices, that's what you should expect), this line is, unfortunately, hit or miss. What Somerville knows about giving an amazing facial is one thing, but she clearly missed the research that proves how problematic several of the plant oils that she uses can be. A professional concerned with the health of her clients' skin shouldn't be formulating products with cinnamon, grapefruit, and lavender oils, among others.
If we were one of Somerville's clients, we'd certainly take her to task for that oversight, but we'd also want to know why she offers only one sunscreen and doesn't offer any effective AHA or BHA exfoliants. A discussion of advanced skin science and state-of-the-art ingredients is not sufficient if your product line has gaps: limited sun protection options, no reliable exfoliants, no non-drying cleansers, and a complete lack of options to treat skin discolorations (pigment irregularities, unlike blackheads, cannot be manually extracted, which makes the absence of a skin lightening product an issue).
This product line may not be the one you want to build your skin-care routine around, but there are some exceptional products. Of all the aesthetician-backed lines we've reviewed, none come as close to providing the level of formulary excellence of many of Somerville's moisturizers and serums. They're pricey, but if you're going to spend in excess for skin-care products, you should be doing so on products that stand a very good chance of markedly improving your skin’s appearance. We are curious to see how this product line will expand and (hopefully) improve over the years. The current mishmash of awesome and awful products makes it risky to shop this line blindly (or on the sole rationale of a celebrity endorsement), but with careful consideration to avoid irritants you can find some products of value. Hopefully, she will expand the line to fill in the current gaps (especially for sun protection) and eliminate the irritants.
For more information about Kate Somerville, now owned by Unilever, call (800) 984-5283 or visit www.katesomerville.com.
The Beautypedia and Paula’s Choice Research teams have one mission: To help you find the best products for your skin, whether they’re from Paula’s Choice or another brand. By combining efforts, we’re able to share scientific research and remain committed to the highest standards based on our decades of experience objectively reviewing thousands upon thousands of skincare and makeup formularies in all price ranges.
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