We're genuinely disappointed to report that this emollient moisturizer for normal to dry skin has two big issues that keep it from earning a recommendation: jar packaging and the presence of irritating plant extracts and oils. The jar packaging won't keep the key beneficial ingredients stable during use, and the problematic plants put skin at risk for pro-aging irritation (see More Info for details on both).
The claims that this moisturizer reduces water loss from skin are true. However, that's also true of any well-formulated moisturizer, often to the percentages Dr. Denese mentions in the claims. This particular moisturizer will make dry skin feel much better, and it contains some wonderful barrier-repair ingredients, but the jar packaging and the problematic plants are difficult to get past when there are other moisturizers in better packaging and without fragrant additives.
The fact that it's packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
This emulsion delivers hydration to the skin, leaving it smooth, supple, and youthful-looking. In a clinical study, it decreased transepidermal water loss on average by 41%, with a maximum improvement of 57% after a single application.
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Squalane, Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate, Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Olivate, Stearic Acid, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Ceramide 2, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture, Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract, Glucosamine HCl, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Betaine, Sorbitol, Glycine, Alanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Arginine, Lysine, Glutamic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Adenosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta (Neem) Leaf Extract, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil, Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Achillea Millefolium (Yarrow) Extract, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Hydroxypropyl Bislauramide MEA, Coco-Glucoside, Urea, Allantoin, Sodium Lactate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Pinanediol, Camphanediol, Disodium EDTA, Dextran, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.
Dr. Denese New York At-A-Glance
Strengths: Several well-formulated serums and moisturizers that are reasonably priced; a very good matte-finish, tinted sunscreen with zinc oxide; uses well-researched, proven ingredients that truly benefit skin, and uses them in higher concentrations than most skin-care lines.
Weaknesses: Problematic toner; inclusion of unnecessary irritants such as lavender oil and menthol; limited options for sun protection; a few gimmicky, multi-step kits and specialty products that are easily replaced by other products in her line.
This doctor-designed skin-care line was, without question, the one most requested for review by our readers, primarily due to its prominence on QVC's Web site and home shopping program.
A graduate of
Her book, Dr. Denese's Secrets for Ageless Skin: Younger Skin in 8 Weeks, on how to take care of your skin, is much like Dr. Perricone's book The Wrinkle Cure, in that both promise to get rid of (or at least really, really minimize) your wrinkles. Another similarity is the lack of supporting research or studies to back up the claims in either book. Neither Dr. Perricone nor Dr. Denese source their information, and more often than not, there are no research reports or supporting studies to be found. We are just supposed to take their word for everything they say. Denese naturally uses her gender more than Perricone to establish credibility and empathy with female consumers (who, no secret, purchase the vast majority of skin-care products out there), and also routinely appears on QVC to discuss her products.
Ironically, her product line, sold exclusively via QVC and Denese's Web site, makes much more sense than a lot of what she writes in her book. After reading the book and evaluating her namesake line, we noted some interesting and frustrating statements and conflicts that deserve attention. One of her statements that we found most surprising, for a dermatologist keen on anti-aging medicine, was: "If a skin-care product doesn't work, it's not the consumer's fault." This statement is not untrue, it's just incomplete. Dr. Denese contends that no one can afford to throw away money on products that don't work, a point with which we truly agree. However, she mentions nothing about carefully establishing a skin-care routine and then following through on it. Unfortunately, many consumers don't follow through, and that's a big reason why they don't get the results they want from products.
For example, using an anti-acne product only occasionally, or not applying sunscreen daily or liberally enough, won't benefit your skin and could easily lead you to believe that the unimpressive results mean the product is faulty.
Moreover, some skin-care problems (like sagging) are beyond what any product can address. (That's why there are dermatologists and plastic surgeons with thriving practices.) All the dermatologists we have interviewed over the years agree that patient compliance with and adherence to skin-care routines and the regimen of topical medications is an ongoing challenge, and there is research supporting that (Source: Dermatologic Therapy, July-August 2006, pages 224–236). Dr. Denese also understands this, as evidenced from her comment about the Dr. Obagi System (for skin discolorations): "The only times I've seen the Obagi System fail is [sic] when patients have skipped steps and ignored instructions."
In another statement Dr. Denese refers to petrolatum and mineral oil as "junk food for skin," stating that "they feel good but they clog your pores." This is not a true statement because neither substance is capable of becoming hard and clogging the lining of the pore. In fact, both of these ingredients have impressive research proving their benefit, mildness, and effectiveness for skin (Sources: Cutis, September 2004, pages 109–116; and Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function, CRC Press, 2000, pages 252–254).
Petrolatum and mineral oil have greasy textures, so they're not the best-feeling ingredients for someone with oily or acne-prone skin, but in this case greasiness does not equal clogged pores.
Dr. Denese also refers to blackheads as dirt, which is completely false. Blackheads are composed of sebum, dead skin cells, and other debris (mostly tiny hairs) that make up the follicle lining of the pore. The oxidation that occurs as this mixture of sebum and dead skin cells reaches the pore opening is what causes the blackness—it has nothing to do with cleanliness (Sources: Clinical Dermatology, September-October 2004, pages 367–374; Cutis, August 2004, pages 92–97; and American Academy of Dermatology, www.aad.org).
According to Dr. Denese, you cannot exfoliate too much. Yet she doesn't warn against the potential for irritation when too much of a good thing becomes a punishment rather than a benefit, which absolutely can occur with over-exfoliation.
Surprisingly, Dr. Denese does not recommend salicylic acid (BHA) for exfoliation. Instead, she prefers AHAs (glycolic and lactic acids) because AHAs may be used at higher concentrations than BHA. However, the difference in concentrations between AHAs and BHA is not about quantity. Rather, it's because they work best at different concentrations, and also perform differently. That is, a higher concentration of AHA is not more effective or better than a lower concentration of BHA. AHAs are most effective at 5% to 10%, while BHA is most effective at 1% to 2%. In the world of skin care, there are many examples where a higher percentage of an ingredient doesn't necessarily equate with superior effects, as is the case with AHA and BHA (Sources: Women’s Health in Primary Care, July 2003, pages 333–339; Journal of Dermatological Treatment, April 2004, pages 88–93; Dermatology, January 1999, pages 50–53; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, April 1997, pages 589–593).
Despite the incomplete information (or in some cases, misinformation) in her book, Denese has crafted some remarkably state-of-the-art products, and the prices, though steep, aren't unreasonable.
As is true for most skin-care lines (including those from dermatologists), there are shortcomings and missteps along with good products here. For those who choose the best of what Dr. Denese has to offer, the rewards will be smiling at them in the mirror each day (but please don't take that to mean your wrinkles will be gone)!
Note: All Dr. Denese products contain fragrance unless otherwise noted.
For more information about Dr. Denese New York, call 866-642-3754 or visit www.drdenese.com.
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