The claim made about the Time Arrest products is that they contain age-reversing technology in the form of platinum, which is the angle the brand uses to try to justify the ridiculous price tags for these products. What about the other anti-aging products sold by the brand, such as Lineless and those claiming to work like Botox, lasers, and face-lifts? If those worked as claimed, why is the Time Arrest line needed?
Suffice to say, Time Arrest Creme isn’t anyone’s age-reversing answer. It has a lush, silky texture and contains some impressive water-binding agents, but nothing that warrants the cost or that justifies the outlandish claims. Platinum, whether attached to a peptide chain or not, cannot prevent skin from sagging or restore a “sculpted look” to the face.
What really hurts this product is the inclusion of skin cell–damaging lavender oil (See More Info for additional details on the trouble with this ingredient). For that reason, plus the completely fabricated claims that lack a shred of substantiation, this moisturizer is not recommended. By the way, what limited research there is on topical use of platinum has shown that it causes skin-cell death, which isn’t what you want if your goal is to look younger (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 1991).
Lavender Oil: In-vitro research indicates that components of lavender, specifically linalool and linalyl acetate, can be cytotoxic, which means that topical application of as little a concentration as 0.25% causes cell death (Cell Proliferation, June 2004). This study was conducted on endothelial cells, which are cells that line blood pathways in the body and play a critical role in the inflammatory process of skin.
As linalool and linalyl acetate are both rapidly absorbed by skin and can be detected within blood cells in less than 20 minutes, endothelial cells are an ideal choice for such a test (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1992). The results of this research also demonstrated that lavender has a damaging effect on fibroblasts, which are cells that produce collagen.
The fragrance constituents in lavender oil, linalool and linalyl acetate, oxidize when exposed to air, and in this process their potential for causing an allergic reaction is increased (Contact Dermatitis, 2008).
If you're wondering why lavender oil doesn't appear to be problematic for you, it's because research has demonstrated that you don't always need to see it or feel it happening for your skin to suffer damage (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2008).
Formulated with Dr Brandt’s age reversing platinum technology to firm and restructure skin’s architecture, improve elasticity and help prevent sagging. New time arrest crème restores skin’s volume to recapture a more youthful, sculpted look!
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, C12-15 Alkyl Lactate, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Myristyl Myristate, Triisostearin, Caprylyl Trimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Tricaprylin, Dimethicone, Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone, Ceteareth-20, Octyldodecanol, Shea Butter Cetyl Esters, Peg-40 Stearate, Cetyl Lactate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C12-16 Alcohols, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Palmitic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Cyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract, Mica, Acetyl Tetrapeptide Platinum, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Carbomer, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Allantoin, Methylparaben, Disodium Edta, Retinyl Palmitate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, BHT, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Silanediol Salicylate, Glycerin, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Triethanolamine, Sodium Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Sodium Hydroxide
Dr. Brandt At-A-Glance
Strengths: Provides complete ingredient lists on the company website; a good daytime moisturizer with sunscreen.
Weaknesses: Expensive; overwhelming number of products that contain irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin; no products to comprehensively address acne or oily skin; every Pores No More product is a disappointment; jar packaging; several products make claims on par with what cosmetic procedures (not skin care) can do.
The late Dr. Fredric Brandt (he passed away in April, 2015 at the age of 65) was a Miami- and New York City–based dermatologist whose claim to fame rested on two main points. The first (and it is a very important credibility factor for consumers) included the many celebrity clients worked with, while the second was his assertion that he performed more Botox and collagen injections than any other dermatologist in the world. According to Allergan, the company that makes Botox, they no longer rank the physicians who purchase Botox from them; however, they did confirm that Dr. Brandt was definitely one of their biggest buyers. Yet regardless of how much Botox or collagen Dr. Brandt or any other physician uses, what in the world does that have to do with cosmetic formulations? If anything, you have to wonder why Brandt was using so much Botox and collagen if his products truly fight wrinkles, sagging, and on and on.
Beyond Brandt's cosmetic enhancement procedures, he is the author of Age-less: The Definitive Guide to Botox, Collagen, Lasers, Peels, and Other Solutions for Flawless Skin. His book and skin-care line are competing against the vastly more popular books and product line from fellow dermatologist Dr. N.V. Perricone. Although Perricone's skin-care line has some drawbacks, including irritating ingredients and the lack of supporting research for his neuropeptide products, the majority of his products, though overpriced, have more pros than cons. Sadly, the same cannot be said for Dr. Brandt, whose namesake skin-care line is on the disappointing side, especially given the product's price points.
Brandt's products are sold with the tag line that they are "prescription strength, prescription-free," and "are formulated under dermatologic control for maximum safety and efficiency and offer the highest performance without a prescription." Aside from how unbelievable that assertion is, what is not mentioned is the fact that none of the ingredients in Brandt's products are comparable to prescription formulations. And what is "dermatologic control" anyway, given that there are no such standards anywhere in the world? Moreover, what do dermatologists know about the manufacturing of pharmaceuticals, much less cosmetics? The two arenas of expertise are completely unrelated.
Dr. Brandt positioned his products as clinically superior to what you would find in other cosmetics lines, an unproven assertion to say the least. Many of his products tout benefits that don't just stretch the truth, but snap it in two—and these fallacies were more disconcerting coming from an esteemed dermatologist. When products contain the problematic ingredients that are so pervasive in Brandt's line, such as irritating plant extracts, drying detergent cleansing agents, and far too many products with skin cell-damaging lavender oil, it becomes nothing more than a line that should be approached with extreme caution.
The line does have a few bright spots: many of Brandt's products do contain significant amounts of antioxidants, though that certainly doesn't make his line unique because many other product lines do that, too. (Here it's fair to say that while no specific amounts have been established for any antioxidant that will ensure their effectiveness, the general consensus among researchers is that more antioxidants are better than less, and less is still better than none at all.) Unless you were a devoted patient of Dr. Brandt and would be racked with guilt for not purchasing his products while visiting for an appointment, there is no reason to seek out this disappointing line.
For more information about Dr. Brandt's products, call (800) 234-1066 or visit www.drbrandtskincare.com.
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