The price of gold has been rising steadily lately, but that has nothing to do with the price of this product because there’s barely a gram of the stuff in here, if even that. As it turns out, gold in any amount is not a precious ingredient for your skin. It is a relatively common allergen that can induce dermatitis on the face and eyelids (Sources: Inflammation and Allergy Drug Targets, September 2008, pages 145–162; Dermatologic Therapy, volume 17, 2004, pages 321–327; and Cutis, May 2000, pages 323–326).
In fact, gold won the dubious title of Allergen of the Year in 2001 from The American Contact Dermatitis Society. Further, there is a known risk associated with gold particles in general inducing oxidative damage, cell death, and toxicity. That’s a lot of unpleasant issues for a substance that has no research showing it can benefit skin in any way, especially not for signs of aging.
One other point: Claims of gold helping to create electric charges in skin to trigger some kind of wrinkle repair sound good, but the concept is completely unproven. Even so, rubbing your gold ring over your skin should do the same without wasting your money.
Aside from the gold gimmick, what’s particularly disappointing about this overpriced fairly standard moisturizer is that your skin is getting a lot of fragrance and very little of the beneficial anti-aging ingredients. There is also far more preservative in this moisturizer than the ingredients your skin needs to achieve any hope of improvement.
What about the Swiss apple extract in this product, with claims of triggering stem cells in your skin to infinitely regenerate? Don’t buy it. Consider that if this apple extract could really stimulate an infinite regeneration of stem cells in your skin, then one of the risks would be cancer (cells infinitely reproducing is one of the basic definitions of cancer). In other words, it’s a good thing that this moisturizer cannot work on your stem cells as claimed! Stem cell research is in its infancy; no one in the skin-care industry or in any area of health has come remotely close to figuring out this technology. We anticipate that the Swiss apple extract soon will go away, as do most of the other silly, marketing ingredients that show up in skin-care products year after year.
A high performance moisturizer for women and men with normal, normal-to-dry or dehydrated skin. Provides a 45% reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles within two months. Swiss Apple Uttwiler Spätlauber stem cells trigger the skin’s own stem cell’s ability for infinite regeneration and DNA repair.
Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Water, C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Butylene Glycol, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Ptfe, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Carbomer, Titanium Dioxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Propylene Glycol, Mica, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Fibroin, Sodium Hydroxide, Algae Extract, Squalane, Disodium Edta, Tocopheryl Acetate, Maltodextrin, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Silica, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Polysorbate 60, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Coco-Glucoside, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, PEG-8, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Jasminum Grandiflorum (Jasmine) Flower Wax, Narcissus Poeticus Flower Wax, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Tilia Cordata Flower Extract, Ubiquinone, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Litchi Chinensis Pericarp Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Xanthan Gum, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Gold, Lecithin
Strengths: The makeup far surpasses the skin care, but is not without its problems; one good serum; a skin lightening product with arbutin; excellent range of foundation, concealer, and powder shades for light to medium skin tones; beautiful powder blush and eyeshadows; some impressive eye and lip pencils (if you don't mind routine sharpening).
Weaknesses: Unjustifiably expensive; several products contain problematic plants or fragrant waxes and oils; no sunscreens; no effective anti-acne products; no AHA or BHA exfoliants; none of the products advertising an SPF rating contain active ingredients or any other ingredients capable of shielding skin from sun damage; the Luminous Eye Liner; boring mascara.
Created by Sylvie Chantecaille, this line of makeup and skin-care products, sold at Neiman Marcus and some salons and spas, draws on Chantecaille's 20 years of experience as an employee of Estee Lauder Corporation. The fact that she worked for Lauder and helped to create and launch the Prescriptives line is impressive. Experience means a lot in the crowded, complicated cosmetics industry and it's as good a reason as any to start your own product line.
Not surprisingly, she claims her products are known for their "uniquely high concentration of natural botanicals" and their organic origins, though it takes only a cursory look at the ingredient list to see that isn't true—did she really think no one would notice propylene glycol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, methylparaben, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol, triethanolamine, and PEG-8, which are about as natural as polyester? What is true, however, is that most of the plants in these products are present in very small amounts, often listed after the preservative.
What almost every cosmetic company knows (we can't think of one that doesn't) is that you can't brag about the synthetic ingredients your products contain, even if they are the backbone of every product you make. Selling skin-care products is far easier when you use terms such as "pure," "holistic," or "wellness." Chantecaille takes this faux information one step further by saying (and we're not kidding about this) that her products are "endowed with a potent life force." Oooh-la-la! But … once you pull off the rose-colored glasses and probe beneath the hyperbole, all you are left with is a bouquet of fantasy that won't help your skin.
Even more bewildering than the natural claims is that Chantecaille asserts that their emphasis on anti-aging focuses primarily on addressing the causes of inflammation. Without question, inflammation plays a role in how the skin and the body age, and recent research is showing that it probably plays a greater role than previously suspected. Any cosmetic company that is trying to make products that reduce inflammation and its effects is a good thing—but for all their talk, Chantecaille's formulas don't inhibit inflammation; instead, many of them increase inflammation thanks to the numerous fragrant plant oils and waxes they contain. While these ingredients create lovely aromas, scent isn't skin care. Most of these fragrant plant ingredients contain volatile chemicals that create the scent; it is these chemicals (e.g., eugenol, limonene, citronellol, and linalool) that cause skin irritation that leads to, you guessed it, inflammation (Sources: Rapid Communications in Mass Spectronomy, November 2008 pages 3593–3598; Chemical Research in Toxicology, May 2007, pages 807–814; and The British Journal of Dermatology, May 2006, pages 885–888).
In contrast, there is little more than anecdotal research indicating that the problematic plant ingredients Chantecaille uses are actually healing, as the company claims.
The chief reason to explore Chantecaille is their makeup. Although there isn't a single item that doesn't have an equally good counterpart in other lines for far less money, if you're curious about Chantecaille, color is where it's at. Their foundation shade range has improved and is beautifully neutral. The textures and finishes for foundation, powder, blush, eyeshadow, and lip glosses are outstanding, as are the finishes. In short, Chantecaille has made it very easy to assemble a makeup wardrobe that makes skin look smooth, polished, and radiant, although their foundations and powders are geared toward those with normal to dry skin.
One more comment: Chantecaille has a penchant for attributing sun-protection claims and SPF ratings to various products. They do so in violation of FDA regulations on sunscreens because the company does not list active ingredients on their label. If a cosmetic company can't even get that right, then much of what they do is called into question, aside from just looking askance at their claims. Considering the price of their products, this omission is nearly unforgivable; please don't rely on the claim for sun protection, because it assuredly puts your skin at risk for sun damage. By the way, none of the natural ingredients in these products provide sun protection on their own, either. Ingredients such as vitamins C and E can, to some extent, help skin defend itself against sun damage and boost the longevity of sunscreen actives, but by themselves they're not capable of providing sun protection on a par with what's required to earn an SPF rating.
For more information about Chantecaille, call 877-673-7080 or visit www.chantecaille.com.
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