Here’s yet another “breakthrough” product from Chanel. You have to wonder how many breakthroughs one line can have before it gets to the point where they have to admit that their other, older “breakthrough” products aren’t really breakthroughs, but rather broken failures. If the old technology worked so brilliantly, what’s the new one for?
The big deal about this eye-area moisturizer is that it supposedly stimulates the production of tensin, a protein in skin that specific cells create as part of skin’s repair process, particularly when it is wounded. Of course, wrinkles aren’t the same as wounds, and there’s no research proving that stimulating tensin production in skin has a lifting effect once skin begins to sag or pooch; sagging isn’t a wound either.
As is typical for the cosmetics industry, Chanel has chosen to focus on one element of skin repair to the exclusion of many other factors that cause skin to look older. Even if you could fix this one aspect of aging, it wouldn’t address the hundreds of processes that negatively affect skin daily. Addressing one small aspect of “aging” won’t change skin.
Analyzing the ingredient label makes it clear there is nothing distinctive in this eye moisturizer. The formula is mostly water, slip agents, film-forming agent, silicone, and emollients. Several intriguing ingredients are present, but in amounts so small that your skin is unlikely to notice, not to mention that their potency will be short lived due to the jar packaging. In the end, this product is neither lifting nor correcting, and isn’t remotely useful for the eye area.
A skincare breakthrough, only from CHANEL. Youthful-looking skin requires more than a boost of collagen and elastin. It also requires tensin - a critical protein naturally abundant in young skin and the key to helping retain skin’s firmness. Stimulating the production of tensin, new ULTRA CORRECTION LIFT Total Eye Lift helps lift the skin of the delicate eye area from within, while also minimizing puffiness and dark circles.
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isostearylneopentanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Shea Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Squalane, Jojoba Esters, Dimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Polysilicone-11, Tocopheryl Acetate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Tromethamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylparaben, Phospholipids, Carbomer, Acrylate/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Escin, Methylparaben, Disodium EDTA, Beta Sitostearol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Canarium Luzonicum Gum Nonvolatiles, Sodium Polyacrylate, Chlorphenesin, Silica, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Decarboxy Carnosine HCL, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Ethylparaben, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Methylparaben, Citric Acid, Titanium Dioxide, Mica
Strengths: Sleek and occasionally elegant packaging; the sunscreens provide broad-spectrum protection; a handful of good cleansers and a topical scrub; some impressive foundations with sunscreen; an assortment of good makeup products including concealer, blush, mascara, eyeshadow and bronzer.
Weaknesses: Expensive, with an emphasis on style over substance; overpriced; overreliance on jar packaging; antioxidants in most products amount to a mere dusting; no products to successfully address sun- or hormone-induced skin discolorations with research-proven ingredients; mostly mediocre to poor eye pencils; extremely limited options for eyeshadows if you want a matte finish.
The history of this Paris-bred line is steeped in fashion, jewelry, and fragrance firsts. The image-is-everything fashion sensibility and fragrance know-how have been loosely translated to Chanel’s ever-imposing skin-care collection, now divided into several categories, although most of them have overlapping, overly exaggerated claims and over-the-top pricing. The company likes to mention its research facility, referred to as C.E.R.I.E.S. (Centre de Recherches et d'Investigations Epidermiques et Sensorielles) as a way to give credibility to its products and the formulary expertise of Chanel's team of scientists, but its studies are not necessarily the kind of independent research that shows up in medical journals.
Founded in 1991 and funded by Chanel, the goal of this research facility is "to help provide a scientific foundation for the design of skin care products and to promote public awareness of the principles underlying maintenance of healthy, attractive skin." Examining Chanel's often lengthy ingredient lists reveals that they believe healthy, attractive skin requires mostly standard, banal ingredients coupled with lots of fragrance and just a smattering of anything resembling state-of-the-art ingredients. Designing skin-care products whose purpose is to reinforce healthy skin doesn't involve strong scents, irritants such as alcohol, or sunscreens whose SPF ratings fall below the standards set by major health organizations, including the American Academy of Dermatology and corresponding international academies as well. Furthermore, their Nº 1 products claim to increase skin's oxygen uptake, something that essentially puts skin on the fast track for more free-radical damage, and no one at C.E.R.I.E.S. seems to have any idea about how to treat acne-prone skin. (Well, let's face it, acne is never fashionable.)
Just like most Chanel skin-care products, the research facility and its ties to the dermatology community make it sound more impressive than it really is. Chanel's influence on fashion and luxury accoutrements is legendary and ongoing; but their skin-care products simply cannot compete with what many other lines are doing, including Estee Lauder, Clinique, Prescriptives, Olay, Dove, Neutrogena, and many others. Considering the couture-level prices, too much of Chanel's skin care is average, and that doesn't look good on anyone.
For more information about Chanel, call (800) 550-0005 or visit www.chanel.com.
Chanel pulls out all the stops to present their makeup in the most flattering light. Many of their products are deserving of the best status, but, frustratingly, an equal number disappoint, seeming to coast on Chanel's name and attention to upscale, designer-influenced packaging rather than providing true quality. For example, few companies have foundations with textures as varied and state-of-the-art as Chanel. However, most of their foundations with sunscreen are formulated without essential UVA-protecting ingredients, even though Chanel clearly knows about this issue, as evidenced from their numerous skin-care products that do contain avobenzone or titanium dioxide. Neglecting adequate UVA protection while going on about how the product creates younger-looking skin is not only inaccurate, it's harmful to your skin's health and appearance.
Beyond inadequate sunscreen, Chanel's eye and lip pencils have extraordinary prices, but ordinary to poor performance, and most of their "we're trying to be unique and clever" products don't do much to prove they're worthy of purchase. It's hard to ignore that much of what Chanel does well other lines do just as well (and sometimes better), and with a more realistic price range to boot. However, the overall situation is better than standard but well-dressed formulas with shamelessly affluent prices, because although it's not inexpensive, the best of Chanel's makeup is truly outstanding. What's needed to establish consistency is an overhaul of the many products that have fallen behind formula-wise. We doubt Chanel will reevaluate their pricing for the better, but given that, the least you should expect is stellar performance from everything you buy that bears the iconic double C logo!
Note: Chanel is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Chanel does not conduct animal testing for its products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law.” Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Beautypedia Research Team.
The Beautypedia and Paula’s Choice Research teams have one mission: To help you find the best products for your skin, whether they’re from Paula’s Choice or another brand. By combining efforts, we’re able to share scientific research and remain committed to the highest standards based on our decades of experience objectively reviewing thousands upon thousands of skincare and makeup formularies in all price ranges.
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