This lightweight cream has a slightly thicker texture than Chanel's original Le Lift moisturizer, but still contains a high amount of alcohol—so much that even though this moisturizer is fragranced, you're likely to detect the scent of alcohol, too—and feel its cooling sensation as this sets. The problem? Alcohol is among the most pro-aging ingredients around, so just like original Le Lift, this becomes an absurdly overpriced moisturizer that cannot live up to its name or claims. See More Info for details on how alcohol damages skin and why products claiming to lift skin cannot work (and find out what you can do instead).
Chanel touts their ultra-powerful ingredient "3.5-DA" as being the key to promoting skin's elasticity and re-contouring a sagging jaw line. Hasn't anyone noticed that Chanel keeps making this claim yet women are still bemoaning their sagging jaw lines? If any of the prior Chanel products (including many they still sell) worked as well as they claimed, why would Le Lift be needed? And who'd be getting a face-lift or procedures such as Thermage or Ulthera when lifting sagging skin is as easy as applying a moisturizer? It all gets so ridiculous, but we got off topic…
Supposedly, this powerful ingredient is isolated from the edulis plant, which Chanel says can boost the production of key proteins responsible for skin's elasticity. Although there's no scientific research proving this, let's assume Chanel did their own research that they've chosen to keep private. Shall we believe them? Well, a big red flag is the fact that this moisturizer does not contain any ingredient from the edulis plant! So, what's supposedly doing the elastin-stimulating work isn't actually in the product to help—but even if it were, skin needs more than one plant, miracle or not, to repair and fortify itself against signs of aging. And the reasons skin sags are only partly due to elastin degradation; helping in that one area is like building a house with a floor but no walls or a roof—you could live in that, but it won't protect you from the elements. This moisturizer is unequivocally not recommended! Your money is better spent on a cosmetic corrective procedure that really can make a difference for sagging skin.
Why Jar Packaging is a Problem: The fact that this moisturizer is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818-829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271-288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197-203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1-32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
What You Can do For Sagging Skin: Many skin-care products claim they can firm and lift skin, but none of them work, at least not to the extent claimed. A face-lift-in-a-bottle isn't possible, but with the right mix of products, you will see firmer skin that has a more lifted appearance—and that's exciting! To gain these youthful benefits, you must protect your skin from any and all sun damage every day, use an AHA (glycolic acid or lactic acid) or BHA (salicylic acid) exfoliant, and use products that have a wide range of antioxidants and skin-repairing ingredients. Remember, no single product can do it all; it's the combination of products that has extensive research showing it can significantly improve many of the signs of aging, such as firming skin, reducing wrinkles and brown spots, and eliminating dullness. You'll find them on our list of Best Anti-Aging/Anti-Wrinkle Products.
How Alcohol Damages Skin:Alcohol in skin-care products causes dryness and free-radical damage, and impairs the skin's ability to heal. The irritation it causes damages healthy collagen production and can stimulate oil production at the base of the pore, making oily skin worse (Sources: Biochimica et Biophysica Acta, May 2012, pages 1,410–1,419; Alcoholism, Clinical and Experimental Research, January 2011, pages 83–90; "Skin Care—From the Inside Out and Outside In," Tufts Daily, April 1, 2002; eMedicine Journal, May 8, 2002, volume 3, number 5, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, February 2001, pages 25–27; Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, pages 12–16; and http://pubs.niaaa.nih.gov/publications/arh27-4/277-284.htm).
This ultra-light, airy formula, part of the innovative LE LIFT Skincare range—precisely targeted, individualized skincare with the pure and ultra-powerful ingredient, 3.5-DA, a highly effective molecule that promotes skin elasticity—re-contours, tones and refines the complexion to reveal skin's optimal firmness. Absorbs instantly and blends seamlessly into skin.
Water, Dimethicone, Alcohol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Cetyl Alcohol, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract, Boron Nitride, Dipropylene Glycol, PEG-75 Stearate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Fragrance, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Arginine, Sorbitatan Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxylethanol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Hydrolized Silk, Polyquaternium-51, Hydroxyethlcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytic Acid, Phentaerythityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Citrate, Hydrochloric Acid, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Citric Acid, CI 14700, CI 19140
Strengths: Sleek and occasionally elegant packaging; the sunscreens provide broad-spectrum protection; a handful of good cleansers and a topical scrub; some impressive foundations with sunscreen; an assortment of good makeup products including concealer, blush, mascara, eyeshadow and bronzer.
Weaknesses: Expensive, with an emphasis on style over substance; overpriced; overreliance on jar packaging; antioxidants in most products amount to a mere dusting; no products to successfully address sun- or hormone-induced skin discolorations with research-proven ingredients; mostly mediocre to poor eye pencils; extremely limited options for eyeshadows if you want a matte finish.
The history of this Paris-bred line is steeped in fashion, jewelry, and fragrance firsts. The image-is-everything fashion sensibility and fragrance know-how have been loosely translated to Chanel’s ever-imposing skin-care collection, now divided into several categories, although most of them have overlapping, overly exaggerated claims and over-the-top pricing. The company likes to mention its research facility, referred to as C.E.R.I.E.S. (Centre de Recherches et d'Investigations Epidermiques et Sensorielles) as a way to give credibility to its products and the formulary expertise of Chanel's team of scientists, but its studies are not necessarily the kind of independent research that shows up in medical journals.
Founded in 1991 and funded by Chanel, the goal of this research facility is "to help provide a scientific foundation for the design of skin care products and to promote public awareness of the principles underlying maintenance of healthy, attractive skin." Examining Chanel's often lengthy ingredient lists reveals that they believe healthy, attractive skin requires mostly standard, banal ingredients coupled with lots of fragrance and just a smattering of anything resembling state-of-the-art ingredients. Designing skin-care products whose purpose is to reinforce healthy skin doesn't involve strong scents, irritants such as alcohol, or sunscreens whose SPF ratings fall below the standards set by major health organizations, including the American Academy of Dermatology and corresponding international academies as well. Furthermore, their Nº 1 products claim to increase skin's oxygen uptake, something that essentially puts skin on the fast track for more free-radical damage, and no one at C.E.R.I.E.S. seems to have any idea about how to treat acne-prone skin. (Well, let's face it, acne is never fashionable.)
Just like most Chanel skin-care products, the research facility and its ties to the dermatology community make it sound more impressive than it really is. Chanel's influence on fashion and luxury accoutrements is legendary and ongoing; but their skin-care products simply cannot compete with what many other lines are doing, including Estee Lauder, Clinique, Prescriptives, Olay, Dove, Neutrogena, and many others. Considering the couture-level prices, too much of Chanel's skin care is average, and that doesn't look good on anyone.
For more information about Chanel, call (800) 550-0005 or visit www.chanel.com.
Chanel pulls out all the stops to present their makeup in the most flattering light. Many of their products are deserving of the best status, but, frustratingly, an equal number disappoint, seeming to coast on Chanel's name and attention to upscale, designer-influenced packaging rather than providing true quality. For example, few companies have foundations with textures as varied and state-of-the-art as Chanel. However, most of their foundations with sunscreen are formulated without essential UVA-protecting ingredients, even though Chanel clearly knows about this issue, as evidenced from their numerous skin-care products that do contain avobenzone or titanium dioxide. Neglecting adequate UVA protection while going on about how the product creates younger-looking skin is not only inaccurate, it's harmful to your skin's health and appearance.
Beyond inadequate sunscreen, Chanel's eye and lip pencils have extraordinary prices, but ordinary to poor performance, and most of their "we're trying to be unique and clever" products don't do much to prove they're worthy of purchase. It's hard to ignore that much of what Chanel does well other lines do just as well (and sometimes better), and with a more realistic price range to boot. However, the overall situation is better than standard but well-dressed formulas with shamelessly affluent prices, because although it's not inexpensive, the best of Chanel's makeup is truly outstanding. What's needed to establish consistency is an overhaul of the many products that have fallen behind formula-wise. We doubt Chanel will reevaluate their pricing for the better, but given that, the least you should expect is stellar performance from everything you buy that bears the iconic double C logo!
Note: Chanel is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Chanel does not conduct animal testing for its products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law.” Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Beautypedia Research Team.
The Beautypedia and Paula’s Choice Research teams have one mission: To help you find the best products for your skin, whether they’re from Paula’s Choice or another brand. By combining efforts, we’re able to share scientific research and remain committed to the highest standards based on our decades of experience objectively reviewing thousands upon thousands of skincare and makeup formularies in all price ranges.
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