This is part of Chanel's collection of products claiming to lighten dark spots. The claims mention an ingredient known as TXC along with pearl protein as having "intensifying dark spot correction" properties. There is no research showing pearl protein has any effect on brown spots, but what about the TXC it contains? Chanel claims it is "the first active brightening ingredient registered in Japan as a quasi-drug by a Western company," which merits some explanation.
Japan's cosmetics regulatory system has a category known as "quasi-drugs." Essentially, this is their way of regulating cosmetic ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C that go beyond the basic benefits of other ingredients that give skin-care products their texture and stability, which can be significant, but the Japanese government has chosen a select few for some unknown reason. Among the cosmetics regulated in Japan as quasi-drugs are "effective essences that contain whitening components," which applies to this Chanel product due to its TXC ingredient. So why does the Japanese cosmetics regulatory board think TXC improves skin color? We have no idea.
The technical name for TXC is cetyl tranexamate HCL, but there is no published research proving this ingredient is the one to use for lightening brown spots. Because concentration protocols haven't been established for this ingredient, we don't even know how much is needed to get results for brown spots (and this product contains only a teeny-tiny amount of TXC). Perhaps the Japanese government knows something about TXC the rest of the world doesn't, but either way this is a lot of money to spend to find out if it's worth the price tag, especially considering there are other formulations that are supported by research as being effective for skin discolorations.
What is most disappointing about this formula is that alcohol is listed as the second ingredient, which means your skin will experience dryness and free-radical damage along with other problems (see More Info for details).
While this skin-lightening product contains a form of vitamin C (ascorbyl glucoside) that has some solid research pertaining to improving discolorations, it (and likely the TXC ingredient) won't remain stable once you open the product because it's packaged in a jar. Please see More Info for details on why jar packaging is not the way to go for products like this.
Considering the poor packaging, problematic amount of alcohol, and lack of research supporting the benefits of Chanel's TXC ingredient, there is no reason to consider this overpriced product.
Alcohol in Skin-Care Products
Alcohol in skin-care products causes dryness and free-radical damage, and impairs the skin's ability to heal. The irritation it causes damages healthy collagen production and can stimulate oil production at the base of the pore, making oily skin worse (Sources: "Skin Care—From the Inside Out and Outside In," Tufts Daily, April 1, 2002; eMedicine Journal, May 8, 2002, volume 3, number 5, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, February 2001, pages 25–27; Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, pages 12–16; and http://pubs.niaaa.nih.gov/publications/arh27-4/277-284.htm).
The fact that it's packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818-829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
Delivers triple action: It intensifies dark-spot correction, offers optimal hydration and provides immediate comfort. Its creamy patent-pending formula, enriched with TXC and Pearl Protein Extract boosts the brightening action and maintains a high level of hydration for a full eight hours. TXC-the first active brightening ingredient registered in Japan as a quasi-drug by aWestern company-has distinctive structure that delivers continuous action for 12 hours.
Aqua (Water), Alcohol, Isododecane, Triethylhexanoin, Glycerin, PEG/PPG Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Steareth-2, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Sodium Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Steareth-21, Butylene Glycol, Disodium Phosphate, Parfum (Fragrance), Phenoxyethanol, BHT, Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan), Tetrasodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Methylparaben, Polyquaternium-61, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Cetyl Tranexamate HCL, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Tocopherol
Strengths: Sleek and occasionally elegant packaging; the sunscreens provide broad-spectrum protection; a handful of good cleansers and a topical scrub; some impressive foundations with sunscreen; an assortment of good makeup products including concealer, blush, mascara, eyeshadow and bronzer.
Weaknesses: Expensive, with an emphasis on style over substance; overpriced; overreliance on jar packaging; antioxidants in most products amount to a mere dusting; no products to successfully address sun- or hormone-induced skin discolorations with research-proven ingredients; mostly mediocre to poor eye pencils; extremely limited options for eyeshadows if you want a matte finish.
The history of this Paris-bred line is steeped in fashion, jewelry, and fragrance firsts. The image-is-everything fashion sensibility and fragrance know-how have been loosely translated to Chanel’s ever-imposing skin-care collection, now divided into several categories, although most of them have overlapping, overly exaggerated claims and over-the-top pricing. The company likes to mention its research facility, referred to as C.E.R.I.E.S. (Centre de Recherches et d'Investigations Epidermiques et Sensorielles) as a way to give credibility to its products and the formulary expertise of Chanel's team of scientists, but its studies are not necessarily the kind of independent research that shows up in medical journals.
Founded in 1991 and funded by Chanel, the goal of this research facility is "to help provide a scientific foundation for the design of skin care products and to promote public awareness of the principles underlying maintenance of healthy, attractive skin." Examining Chanel's often lengthy ingredient lists reveals that they believe healthy, attractive skin requires mostly standard, banal ingredients coupled with lots of fragrance and just a smattering of anything resembling state-of-the-art ingredients. Designing skin-care products whose purpose is to reinforce healthy skin doesn't involve strong scents, irritants such as alcohol, or sunscreens whose SPF ratings fall below the standards set by major health organizations, including the American Academy of Dermatology and corresponding international academies as well. Furthermore, their Nº 1 products claim to increase skin's oxygen uptake, something that essentially puts skin on the fast track for more free-radical damage, and no one at C.E.R.I.E.S. seems to have any idea about how to treat acne-prone skin. (Well, let's face it, acne is never fashionable.)
Just like most Chanel skin-care products, the research facility and its ties to the dermatology community make it sound more impressive than it really is. Chanel's influence on fashion and luxury accoutrements is legendary and ongoing; but their skin-care products simply cannot compete with what many other lines are doing, including Estee Lauder, Clinique, Prescriptives, Olay, Dove, Neutrogena, and many others. Considering the couture-level prices, too much of Chanel's skin care is average, and that doesn't look good on anyone.
For more information about Chanel, call (800) 550-0005 or visit www.chanel.com.
Chanel pulls out all the stops to present their makeup in the most flattering light. Many of their products are deserving of the best status, but, frustratingly, an equal number disappoint, seeming to coast on Chanel's name and attention to upscale, designer-influenced packaging rather than providing true quality. For example, few companies have foundations with textures as varied and state-of-the-art as Chanel. However, most of their foundations with sunscreen are formulated without essential UVA-protecting ingredients, even though Chanel clearly knows about this issue, as evidenced from their numerous skin-care products that do contain avobenzone or titanium dioxide. Neglecting adequate UVA protection while going on about how the product creates younger-looking skin is not only inaccurate, it's harmful to your skin's health and appearance.
Beyond inadequate sunscreen, Chanel's eye and lip pencils have extraordinary prices, but ordinary to poor performance, and most of their "we're trying to be unique and clever" products don't do much to prove they're worthy of purchase. It's hard to ignore that much of what Chanel does well other lines do just as well (and sometimes better), and with a more realistic price range to boot. However, the overall situation is better than standard but well-dressed formulas with shamelessly affluent prices, because although it's not inexpensive, the best of Chanel's makeup is truly outstanding. What's needed to establish consistency is an overhaul of the many products that have fallen behind formula-wise. We doubt Chanel will reevaluate their pricing for the better, but given that, the least you should expect is stellar performance from everything you buy that bears the iconic double C logo!
Note: Chanel is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Chanel does not conduct animal testing for its products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law.” Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Beautypedia Research Team.
The Beautypedia and Paula’s Choice Research teams have one mission: To help you find the best products for your skin, whether they’re from Paula’s Choice or another brand. By combining efforts, we’re able to share scientific research and remain committed to the highest standards based on our decades of experience objectively reviewing thousands upon thousands of skincare and makeup formularies in all price ranges.
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