Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary

advanced glycation endproduct. Advanced glycation endproducts (AGEs) are formed by the body’s major fuel source, namely glucose. This simple sugar is essential for energy, but also can bind strongly to proteins (the body’s fundamental building blocks), forming abnormal structures—AGEs—that progressively damage tissue elasticity. Once AGEs are generated, they begin a process that prevents many systems from behaving normally by literally causing tissue to cross-link and become hardened (Source: Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, March 14, 2000 , pages 2809–2813). The theory is that by breaking these AGE bonds you can undo or stop the damage they cause. There are studies showing that aminoguanidine and carnosine are AGE inhibitors that can prevent glucose cross-linking of proteins and the loss of elasticity associated with aging and diabetes; however, many other substances are potential candidates as AGE inhibitors as well. One study examined over 92 substances, and 29 of them showed some degree of inhibitory activity, with 9 compounds proving to be 30 to 40 times stronger than aminoguanidine (Source: Molecular Cell Biology Research Communications, June 2000, pages 360–366). AGEs and free-radical damage may be inextricably linked (Sources: European Journal of Neuroscience, December 2001, page 1961; and Neuroscience Letters, October 2001, pages 29–32), but none of the studies show that there is any relevance when it comes to topical application of these substances as they are included in cosmetics.