Dr. LeWinn’s Private Formula At-A-Glance
Strengths: Effective, gentle cleansers; a few worthwhile moisturizers (one with sunscreen); one outstanding serum.
Weaknesses: Expensive considering the mostly routine formulas; irritating toners; several moisturizers contain problematic or unproven ingredients; lack of products to address acne and pigmentation issues; jar packaging.
Among native Australians, Dr. LeWinn’s Private Formula is almost as well known as Australia’s international iconic figures—kangaroos and koala bears. Yet all the hype about this collection of hit-or-miss products leaves me puzzled, because there’s nothing in this line worth getting too excited about. The products are sold with a medical ambience, thanks to the claim of being formulated by a distinguished "Plastic Surgeon to the Stars," Dr. Laurence LeWinn, although he is no longer around to add any insight to his products. Whether or not he ever was a Hollywood plastic surgeon is anyone’s guess. Yet mentioning to almost any beauty-savvy Australian that Americans have never heard of these products or a plastic surgeon named LeWinn still brings stares of amazement!
The origin of this line has to do with a moisturizer LeWinn created that contains the vitamin A derivative retinyl palmitate. According to information on the company’s Web site, “this revolutionary ingredient was chosen because it has the same ‘parent’ source as the well-documented wrinkle-elimination ointment that was developed in recent times.” Of course they’re referring to tretinoin, which has been advertised for wrinkles since 1987 (more proof that this company’s concept of “recent times” is flawed, as further evidenced by many of their dated formulas). Retinyl palmitate is a combination of retinol with palmitic acid. It is an effective antioxidant and skin-cell regulator, but it does not work the same way as tretinoin does; comparing the two in terms of efficacy is akin to equating the painkilling prowess of over-the-counter ibuprofen with prescription Vicodin.
There is one great bit of news about this line since I last reviewed it, it now offers effective, broad-spectrum sunscreens. Considering Australia’s latitude, climate, and proximity to the Equator, no skin-care line sold there (or anywhere, for that matter) should omit this daily essential. There are also good products with intriguing ingredients, including various peptides and antioxidants. All of this is a step in the right direction, but overall there ends up being little substance behind the hype, and many of the modern, well-researched ingredients either appear in scant amounts or are compromised by jar packaging. Considering the prices and this line’s lofty status as Australia’s #1 premium skin-care brand (as voted on by Australian pharmacies), that’s discouraging.
For more information about Dr. LeWinn’s Private Formula, call (in
Australia) 03-9673-7777 or visit
www.drlewinns.com.